7 of the best asymmetrical watches that break the horological mould
Buffy AcaciaNo matter where your taste in watches lies, you can pretty much guarantee they’ll mostly be round. Given the circular nature of our journey around the Sun, the way a sundial’s shadow is cast, and the very way we display time progressing, it’s no surprise that the vast majority of watches are the same. Rectangular and square watches have some big hits here and there, but they’re still considered somewhat niche. If you want to shock and alienate customers, whether for fun or artistic reasons, then the easiest way forward is to distort the case. While asymmetry hit its stride in the 1950s, there’s still a niche appreciation for them today, and we’ve collated the best examples of asymmetrical watches.
Hamilton Ventura Quartz
It doesn’t really matter how high-end or sophisticated a watch is, because pop culture has the power to define generations. The Hamilton Ventura is a legend twice over in that world, first becoming known as the “Elvis watch” after appearing on his wrist in the movie Blue Hawaii, and later being worn by the agents of Men in Black. As if stardom in 1961 and 1997 wasn’t enough, the Ventura also gets horological brownie points for being the first battery-powered electric watch. Introduced in 1957, the Richard Arbib design promoted the space-age thinking that the Hamilton Electric movement embodied, working towards a high-tech future. These days, the Ventura comes in a variety of references, both quartz-powered and automatic. Electric movements may have been thoroughly replaced by quartz ones, but the Ventura shape is still exciting. It’s also available from the Time+Tide Shop. Price: US$975
Zodiac Olympos
Although horizontal asymmetry always seems to irk human consciousness the most, there’s something deeply satisfying about a shape that’s vertically asymmetrical. The Zodiac Olympus explores that dimension well, with harsh, swooping shoulders that slope down towards the lower lugs. The end result almost resembles a spider-like figure or a ray which earned its original nickname “Manta”. Either way, it’s a captivating watch case that was originally issued to the British Royal Navy in the 1960s. The dial of the Olympos Field variant only adds to the sense of vintage mystique, with a granular texture and a smokey colour scheme behind aged luminous numerals. Alternatively, there is a much dressier version available in yellow gold PVD with a matching, glamorous dial, available now from the Time+Tide Shop. Price: US$995
SpaceOne Polished Stainless Steel
Because so much science fiction and futurism entered the public consciousness during the 1950s and ’60s, the amorphous and gleaming structures of modernist art go hand-in-hand with sci-fi designs. That said, SpaceOne has fully embraced the extraterrestrial angle with its spaceship-inspired watches. With the crown seeming like a jet engine and the aerodynamic wings of the ship forming the rest of the case, the sapphire crystal opens up into a cockpit that displays the time with a jumping hours complication. This would still be cool with a quartz movement, but SpaceOne uses an automatic Soprod calibre P024 for extra old-school credit, with a Theo Auffret-built module. There are a bunch of different references including titanium and carbon cases as well as left-handed models, but the polished stainless steel version is my favourite to capture a Jetsons vibe. Price: €1,500 (~US$1,630)
Anoma A1
In watchmaking as with any art form, inspiration can come from anywhere. For the Anoma A1, its sculptural case was inspired by a table designed by Charlotte Perriand in the 1950s. The A1 combines elements of the organic and the manufactured, with its stainless steel form smoothed out like a river-worn stone despite its geometric, triangular shape. The opening for the dial isn’t perfectly lined up with the case’s silhouette either, creating a twisting energy that mirrors the hands’ journey as time progresses. Sectors of vertical brushing and darker matte finishes are interrupted by clinical streaks of white for timekeeping, finally reinforcing the space age feel that’s inherent in modernist designs. Price: £1,300 (~US$1,700)
Toledano & Chan B/1
By now, you can see that asymmetry is clearly linked with modernism, but the Toledano & Chan B/1 takes its inspiration from a controversial form known as brutalism. More specifically, its oppressive facets were borrowed from the protruding windows of the Breuer Building in New York City, which opened in 1964. With its knife-edge chamfers and strong personality that overcomes the need for any branding on the lapis lazuli dial, the Toledano & Chan B/1 is one of the strongest examples of modernism’s resurgence in post-modern watchmaking. The TimeForArt 2024 auction also saw an astonishing version made out of solid meteorite. Price: US$4,000
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch
The asymmetry of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch is fairly subtle, but it’s been an intrinsic part of the case design since the pre-Moon reference 105.012 from 1964. Taking over from the angular and slender profile of the 1957 Trilogy releases, the lyre-lug case design is still used for modern Speedmaster Moonwatches today. The 42mm case essentially just warps slightly to incorporate the crown and pushers, allowing them to be guarded without any awkward or bulky additions to the silhouette. It’s that subtlety that allows the case to look symmetrical at a glance, showcasing how asymmetrical design can actually be in support of balance rather than against it. Price: US$7,000
Berneron Mirage 34
Sylvain Berneron’s brand has been in development for the last two years while serving as Creative Director for Breitling, and the Mirage 38 was his first release. Rather than containing the movement in a traditional circular shape, the hand-wound Calibre CH233 was designed for performance first and shape as an afterthought. Then, the Mirage’s case and dial were formed around it, leaning into the warped nature without pulling back on luxury. The result was a brand-new watch that truly captures the artistic freedom of the past, and proves that elegance can come in any shape. The new Mirage 34 takes the same concept with a smaller case plus a smaller calibre 215, and has opted for simplified stone dials with tiger’s eye or lapis lazuli in yellow and white gold respectively. Price: CHF 48,000 (~US$55,600)
Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Cartier Crash
Frankly, Cartier is the undisputed master of asymmetrical cases. Hamilton gave it a decent run for its money in the ’50s and ’60s, but Cartier continues to produce plenty of exquisite examples today. It was difficult to decide between models such as the Cloche and the Tank Asymétrique, but I’ve settled on the Crash as the most iconic of the bunch. The first Cartier Crash was released in 1967, and some still believe the design was based on a watch deformed by fire in a blazing car accident, but just like some of the best watch stories out there, it may not be true. We know from the Pasha that Cartier isn’t afraid to embellish an origin story, but regardless of the truth, it’s a fantastic watch design. It undermines typical luxury snobbery, and ironically has become one of the most sought-after models in high-end auctions, spawning countless references and limited editions. Technically, the Crash is still in production, but strictly as a Cartier Special Order – making it one of the hardest Cartiers to acquire at retail. Price: US$100,000+