10 of the best gold watches that’ll have a hard time staying undercover
Borna BošnjakA gold watch is the ultimate status symbol. Though the recent horological trend has skewed towards steel as the material of choice, the timelessness of gold is continuously proven by brands introducing flagship models in precious metals. Don’t get me wrong – gold done incorrectly can be gaudy and overcompensate for lacklustre personality – but when properly executed, there’s a particular gravitas that only a gold watch carries. If you want a precious metal watch that doesn’t immediately give away its luxury, you’ll be better off with a white gold or platinum watch, as every watch on this list suffers from golden-hued success just a tad.
Nomos Ludwig Gold 33
Being the kings of affordable, quality watchmaking, it’s really no surprise Nomos is the entry level of the best gold watches, too. Powered by the Alpha calibre, this 33mm Ludwig is pretty much as classic as classic gets. Looking at it, this is what I think a default watch would look like in the 1950s. The case is 18k, 3N gold, measuring in at just 6.6mm in height and 6.6mm lug-to-lug. Price: US$10,140
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox
Moustaches, cigarettes, and a general disregard for safety was a good way to describe Formula 1 in the 1970s, but there were also watches – most notably beaming gold Heuer Carrera 1158 CHNs. They were used as gifts for the likes of Lauda and Ickx by then-CEO Jack Heuer, reincarnated last year the Carrera Chronograph Glassbox. The golden panda was the perfect tribute to the bygone era of motorsport, and one of the best watches of last year, period. Price: US$21,500
Hublot Big Bang Unico Full Magic Gold
Hublot is known for its material experimentation, but the one material in its line-up that is often overlooked is Magic Gold. While it may appear just like a slightly toned-down yellow gold, it’s actually a unique 18k alloy made by impregnating ultra-hard boron carbide with 24k gold, resulting in a material that has all the lustre of gold but without its malleability. Combine it with the Big Bang Unico shape, and it’s as Hublot of a watch as it gets. Price: US$40,500
Omega Speedmaster Professional in Moonshine on Moonshine
Owing to its lunar heritage, the Speedy has always been a bit of a tool-tastic, no-nonsense piece in its iconic black dial and steel case combination (regardless of the lack of water resistance). When Omega released the Speedy in this resplendent Moonshine gold however, it became clear that it has serious luxe potential, and that the special-edition Moon landing Speedies in yellow gold were no happy accident. An honourable mention has to go to the rosy Sedna gold-cased Speedmaster, too, though it’s just narrowly pipped by its yellow gold sibling. Price: US$42,600
Berneron Mirage
Deserving an entry on this list simply for its refreshing approach to high-end watchmaking, the Berneron Mirage Sienna is also unique for the amount of gold it uses in its construction. Not only is its twisted case yellow gold, the material is also extensively used in its Cercle des Horlogers-developed, manually winding movement. Potential spoiler alert – it’s a trait it shares with another entrant on this list. Price: US$62,000
Vacheron Constantin Les Historiques 222
The 222 was the very first watch I thought of when researching this article. There’s nothing quite like it out there, from the unique lustre of the brushed gold to the unusual presence given off by the 37mm case. In an interview with Andrew, Vacheron Constantin’s Style and Heritage Director Christian Selmoni notes the case to be “close to perfection”. He’s right. Price: US$74,000
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton
There are few watches that, though I wasn’t too excited about when seeing the press images, I was pleasantly surprised by in the metal. There are even fewer watches that change my opinion on a wider topic completely, and the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Skeleton is an example of one of those. It made me open to the idea of openworking, courtesy of its organic, flowing bridges and, being aware that I’m likely repeating myself, the best bracelet I’ve experienced on any watch. It’s a lucky coincidence that they’re difficult to source in Australia, or I’d have to consider parting with a kidney (or two – I’d make it work). Price: CHF 97,000 (~US$110,000)
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance
F.P. Journe is member of a rare breed of watchmakers that experimented with resonance, initially observed by Christiaan Huygens in the 17th century. Journe’s latest watch capitalising on the phenomenon comes 20 years after the first limited-production series, and is more complex than ever, employing a differential that sends power to each of the two separate going trains, as well as double one-second remontoirs d’egalités.
“Why is this watch on a list of best gold watches?”, I hear you ask. It’s not just the case that’s made of rose gold, but the entire movement, too – an F.P. Journe signature. Price: starting from US$136,700
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Tourbillon Openworked in Sand Gold
Alongside announcing John Mayer as its new “Creative Conduit” (and releasing a pretty schmick watch to boot), the biggest news for Audemars Piguet’s Social Club 2024 was the introduction of a new material – Sand Gold. The Royal Oak Tourbillon Openworked was the lucky first recipient of the new metal treatment, and as you may expect from most things that come out of AP’s workshops, it’s quite a looker, the colour achieved through additions of copper and palladium. Price: US$282,000
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Honeygold Lumen
The newest Lumen from A. Lange & Söhne needs little introduction, based on what is potentially its most recognisable watch in a material unique to the German brand. While the luminous dial sub-elements are the clear stand-out, the Honeygold case is an absolute darling, and finished as impeccably as you might expect. Am I making the excuse to shoehorn in the Datograph Lumen in as many “best of” lists as possible? Absolutely not – I would never – though it is that good. Anyway, look out for next week’s list of “best German chronographs beginning with the letter ‘D'”. Price: US$620,000
T+T Timeless Pick: Rolex Day-Date 36
It could only ever be this one. The Rolex Day-Date isn’t just a recognisable gold watch, it’s one of those rare watches deserving to be called iconic. Often associated with world leaders, it has been worn by presidents, monarchs, dictators, star athletes, celebrities and even spiritual leaders like the Dalai Lama. You’re not short of options either, with the Day-Date available in three types of gold and platinum – just make sure you option it with a fluted bezel and President bracelet. Price: starting from US$15,000 (vintage) or US$36,500 (modern)