The Grand Seiko SLGW005 tributes a 1968 45GS with a double-signed Seiko dial
Borna BošnjakIt’s been seven years since Seiko decided to establish Grand Seiko as its own, separate entity rather than a sub-brand. To allow the corporation to more easily justify the vast difference in pricing to the layperson consumer, starting with the 2017 SBGR305, Grand Seikos would no longer sport double-signed Seiko dials. Though watch fans (and especially Seiko and GS ones) can be a tough crowd, it was a move that was generally well-received, as many of the designs followed featured much cleaner dials. In a move that I’m confident saying nobody expected, Grand Seiko is bringing back the double-signed dial for a revival of the 1968 4520-8000 45GS in the form of the Grand Seiko SLGW005 Heritage Collection model. It’s a faithful recreation of a classic Grand Seiko model, with the kind of upgrades worthy of the vintage name.
A short history
There’s lots we can say about Grand Seiko’s history, even if we focus on just a singular model line, so I’ll keep it really brief. The 45GS was launched in 1968 by Daini Seikosha in response to Suwa Seikosha’s 61GS, both known for their excellent chronometric performance and high-beat calibres, especially considering the V.F.A. variants.
Most notable, perhaps, is that the 45GS followed in the footsteps of the 44GS in continuing Taro Tanaka’s famed Grammar of Design introduced with the latter model in 1967. The 45GS advanced this lineage with better-refined case proportions, and unlike its predecessor, had a production run spanning all the way until the mid-1970s. This would also signal the end of Grand Seiko-branded watches before the quartz revival in the form of the quartz 95GS in 1988.
The dial
Finally, jumping into the revival piece, and the connection to the original 45GS is immediately obvious. Unlike some other Grand Seiko Re-creation models, the SLGW005 is almost the perfect re-release of its ’60s predecessor. Seiko lovers like myself will love the double-signed dial and high-beat logo printed beneath the Gothic script GS, but parking the nerdiness for a minute, this is just a really handsome watch.
One of the main reasons why the removal of Seiko branding from Grand Seiko pieces was so well-received is that those last few years of double-signed models often suffered from excessive dial text. The SLGW005 perfectly rides the line between staying true to vintage inspiration and overbranding. The small dauphine hands immediately remind me of those found on the 36.5mm 44GS models, but don’t seem overly diminutive here as they do on those watches. The off-white colour is also great at invoking the spirit of a vintage piece without feeling like the brand is fauxtinaing too hard, with the overall finishing matching the high Grand Seiko standard you’d expect.
The case
While the dial is as faithful as it could be to the original, the case size does increase in size from the 36.5mm x 8.8mm dimensions of the ’68 45GS. It now measures in at 38.8mm in diameter, with a 10.4mm thickness, the expansion likely warranted by the new calibre, more on which shortly. I’ll be the first to complain about a watch that’s larger than it should be, but thanks to those flared, yet short lugs of the 45GS-style case, I’d be grasping at straws.
Though the dial has that taboo allure of Seiko and Grand Seiko, it really is the case where the SLGW005 shines – literally. Tanaka’s outlines three key things that all watches following the Grammar of Design have to meet. Flat surfaces with no curves, making those surfaces as wide as possible, and polishing those same surfaces to a mirror-finish with no distortion. The SLGW005 passes with flying colours, going a step above to make features like the semi-recessed crown (another 45GS signature) more complicated in finish, frosting the inside and polishing the raised relief GS script.
The strap
The included crocodile leather strap is fitting of a watch of this style, with a matte, no-stitch finish. With that dial and case, though, the SLGW005 is practically begging to be a strap monster. Regardless, Grand Seiko didn’t forget about the pin buckle, finishing the steel with a large Seiko script against a hammered background, once again tributing the design you’d find on an original 4520-8000.
The movement
But the one we have to thank for this release is the new Grand Seiko 9SA4 calibre introduced at this year’s Watches and Wonders with the SLGW002 and SLGW003 models. 45GS Grand Seiko models produced by Daini had two signature features – they were manual-winding, and they were high-beat. Until the presentation of the 9SA4, Grand Seiko’s only current manually wound movement was a 4Hz calibre, and I’d assume the brand just didn’t feel it was the right fit for a revival of a classic – and rightfully so. The 9SA4 is a really pretty movement, decorated well for the price point it commands, with neat anglage, striping, brushing, and polishing of the screws and ratchet wheel.
It’s perhaps even more impressive spec-wise, offering the aforementioned 5Hz beat rate, with an 80-hour power reserve, and a mean daily rate of -3/+5 seconds per day. It sports dual barrels helping that power reserve (helpfully shown through the caseback), as well as the dual impulse escapement, which is a rarity in watchmaking. The escapement delivers (as the name suggests) two impulses, one through the escape wheel to the balance, and the other (much like a conventional lever escapement) through the pallet fork.
The verdict
It’s quite rare for me to get excited about a new release these days, as I’ve mostly gone the vintage route for my personal collection. That completely went out of the window the moment I took the SLGW005 out of the box. The look is rooted in 1960s elegance, but powered by a downright impressive and beautiful modern movement. My own feelings aside, the Grand Seiko SLGW005 feels like the perfect execution of watch nerd fan service, as it ticks all the right boxes and offers a potential improvement to the original given the modern movement. I often say “if I had to nitpick”, and then find some obscure thing to complain about, but I’m honestly quite stumped here. Is it time for me to make some room in my watch box?
Grand Seiko SLGW005 Heritage Collection Re-creation of 1968 45GS pricing and availability
The Grand Seiko SLGW005 is a limited edition of 1,200 pieces, available starting November 2024. Price: A$13,900 (~US$9,500)
| Brand | Grand Seiko |
| Model | Heritage Collection Re-creation of 1968 45GS |
| Reference | SLGW005 |
| Case Dimensions | 38.8mm (D) x 10.4mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal front and back |
| Dial | Off-white |
| Strap | Crocodile leather, steel clasp |
| Movement | 9SA4, in-house, manual winding, high-beat |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, power reserve |
| Availability | November, 1,200 pieces |
| Price | A$13,900 |