Micromilspec’s hardy Milgraph is the culmination of over 40 custom military watches

Jamie Weiss

Traditionally, Micromilspec hasn’t made many of its watches available to the public. The Norwegian brand, which was established in 2019 as a boutique manufacturer of made-to-order watches focusing on the military, has largely produced custom commissions for different international service branches, including the Norwegian Heimevernet, the US Space Force, and the French Navy’s Nageurs de Combat. Micromilspec’s latest creation, the Milgraph, is its first chronograph watch available to the public, and only the second chronograph the brand has ever produced after the piece unique “Goldenboy” commissioned by Norwegian footballer Erling Haaland. It’s also its first timepiece that combines GMT and chronograph complications, and it is one of Micromilspec’s most interesting designs yet.

The case

Micromilspec might be a relatively young brand but it’s developed a distinctive common case design, which features angular sides and lugs topped by plinth-like bezels. These sharp features give a no-nonsense yet attractive look and one that the Milgraph also sports. Also like most of Micromilspec’s range, the Milgraph features a microblasted grade 5 titanium case. Where it differs from previous models is in the design of its bezel, which features a unique “QuadGrip” design with four deep indents to make it easier to manipulate while wearing gloves – emphasising its mil-spec intentions (I mean, it’s in the name, right?) This diving-style bezel signals dive watch intentions, although the watch is ‘only’ 100m water-resistant.

Its crown and pushers are mounted on the left-hand side, which Micromilspec explains “enhances mobility and comfort, minimizing wear on the skin when worn directly and on textiles when worn on the exterior. Is it a bit of an affectation? Sure, but it looks cool, so whatever. Speaking of cool, I like how seamlessly the Milgraph’s chronograph pushers integrate into the side of the case – they’re super slimline. Like other Micromilspec models, there’s also a dedicated space on the screw-down caseback for a custom engraving. At 42mm wide and 15mm thick with a lug-to-lug of 50.3mm, it’s not exactly a small watch – but considering its hardy, masculine nature, that’s hardly a surprise.

The dial

The dial of the Micromilspec Milgraph features a utilitarian matte black finish, with a model designation printed in white and orange, which all adds to the military vibe. Skeletonised hands fly above, with the GMT hand featuring an orange tip and the chunky skeletonised hour and minute hands filled with Super-LumiNova. A GMT scale can be found on the chapter ring, which is flanked by lume-filled fencepost indices. A touch I think might put some people off but one I’m actually a fan of is that the chronograph hours and minutes subdials and the small seconds indicator all feature little labels, so there’s no confusing which is which – perhaps not a problem for seasoned WISes, but perhaps helpful for the average operator, especially considering this watch’s destro design.

The strap

Three different straps are available for the Micromilspec Milgraph: a chunky rubber or leather strap with titanium hardware, or a full titanium bracelet with a butterfly clasp. Strictly speaking, these strap options aren’t integrated, but the design of the Milgraph’s lugs makes them look extremely integrated. At launch, only the rubber is currently available.

The movement

Powering this stealthy operator is a La Joux-Perret L121, which features a 60-hour power reserve and a column wheel. Previous Micromilspec models have almost universally utilised Sellita SW200-1s, so this La Joux-Perret movement is a welcome step up in terms of quality – they haven’t skimped here. It is worth pointing out that the aforementioned Erling Haaland piece boasts a more prestigious Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier VMF 3022/12, but that watch doesn’t feature a GMT hand, and it’s a one-off piece so you can’t hold the Milgraph to the same standard.

The verdict

Micromilspec describes the Milgraph as designed to conquer land, sea and air, but I must admit it’s also conquered my heart. I think it’s a beaut: I love how legible the dial is; I appreciate how intentional its case and bezel are; and I like that the brand went for a La Joux-Perret calibre.

Micromilspec Milgraph pricing & availability

The Micromilspec Milgraph is available now from Micromilspec’s online boutique, limited to 50 pieces annually. Price: US$3,850

Brand	Micromilspec
Model	Milgraph
Case Dimensions	42mm (D) x 15mm (T) x 50.3mm (LTL)
Case Material	Grade 5 titanium
Water Resistance	100m
Crystal(s)	Sapphire
Dial	Matte black, GMT chapter ring, indices and hands in Super-LumiNova
Strap	Choice of a rubber or leather strap with titanium pin buckle Titanium bracelet
Movement	La Joux-Perret L121, automatic
Power Reserve	60 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, GMT, timing bezel
Availability	Now, limited to 50 pieces annually
Price	US$3,850