The underrated Girard-Perregaux Laureato versus the understated Urban Jürgensen One
Buffy AcaciaHumans love putting things in categories, but there are so many watches that defy definition. The initial intention for a watch’s release may be completely misinterpreted by its customers, and you wind up with sports watches locked in cabinets. However, it’s often these kinds of watches that fill a specific niche no others can. Blending the stylistic elements from a few different genres really allows the expressive side of a brand’s identity to come through, escaping the confines of conformity. The Girard-Perregaux Laureato and the Urban Jürgensen One are great examples, neither specifically dressy, nor sporty, but approaching both with excellence.
It’s practically irrelevant to discuss the history of the Urban Jürgensen name because the One was a redefining release. The short version is that Urban’s father Jørgen founded his business in 1773. Urban took over, and the company had a rather chaotic evolution of varying quality over the next two centuries. The brand as we know it today came about in 1979, with a focus on hand-made tradition and classical style. Conversely, Girard-Perregaux was founded in 1854, but with roots going back to 1791. It was a relatively early adopter of the luxury sports watch trend with the Laureato in 1975, sticking to its mechanical guns throughout the quartz crisis.
| Brand | Girard-Perregaux | Urban Jürgensen |
| Model | Laureato 42mm | One |
| Reference Number | 81010-11-431-11A | 5241 |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 10.68mm (T) | 41mm (D) x 12.1mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel (316L) | Stainless steel (1.4441) |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres | 120 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Navy blue hobnail pattern | Navy blue wave-motif guilloché |
| Strap | Steel bracelet | Steel bracelet |
| Movement | GP01800, in-house, automatic | P5, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 54 hours | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, 24-hour GMT |
| Availability | Available now | Available second-hand |
| Price | US$14,300 | US$26,950 (RRP) |
Common ground – Hybrid appeal, watchmaking pedigree, and alternative icons
If you strip away the context behind the two brands, both the Laureato and the One are still fascinating watches. They’re both made out of stainless steel with enough water resistance to take swimming and yet they’re designed with a level of refinement and luxury appeal. That in itself isn’t uncommon, but that hybrid appeal allows both of them to be worn with great versatility. The phrase “beach to boardroom” is a bit of an unrealistic stereotype, but it accurately sums up what they were designed to do.
Reintroducing the brand context, and they get even more exciting. Girard-Perregaux has created some incredibly high-concept watches, from flying tourbillons to miniature functional poker machines. The marvels of Urban Jürgensen are less flashy but just as technologically advanced with lofty complications and micron-level perfection. Narrowing the focus down to hours, minutes, seconds, and dates is almost a challenge in itself for these wizards of watchmaking, because simplicity always invites heightened scrutiny from the general public.
Another point of similarity is that while both Urban Jürgensen and Girard-Perregaux are recognised, loved brands, the Laureato and the One will never be the default choice in their respective category. It’s all too easy to reach for an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak or a Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra when you’re in need of a smart casual watch, but these watches require educated forethought, appreciation, and consideration.
Where each stands apart – Design characteristics, luxury hierarchy, availability and price
While the Girard-Perregaux Laureato VS Urban Jürgensen One do exist in similar stylistic spheres, there are definitely some design characteristics that set them apart. The One is an almost exclusively rounded watch, with smooth, graduated arches and compound curves all flowing together in harmony. In fact, the only straight lines in its case are the horizontal planes of the bezel and caseback meeting the case. The Laureato on the other hand embraces angularity, even if the rounded case smooths out the appearance of the stepped octagonal bezel. It then reinforces the sense of rigidity with the hobnail pattern on the dial, forming a much more contemporary picture than its 1975 namesake. The dial of the Urban Jürgensen One references its classical past with a central sector of guilloché and Breguet-inspired hands, however, the wave motif and the upscaling of those hands really make it modern too.
There is a small elephant in the room, which has to do with the specific level of luxury the two brands operate in. Although Girard-Perregaux has releases that live at the pinnacle of watchmaking, the Laureato itself doesn’t reach those same heights, and it’s not supposed to. Essentially, it’s what Girard-Perregaux would consider to be its accessible watch. The line between Urban Jürgensen’s One and more complicated watches is a bit more blurry, not necessarily because of its simplicity, but because of the brand’s approach to its execution. Also: the Laureato has a truly integrated bracelet, whereas the One features standard lugs (albeit with curved spring bars). Both watches’ movements are manufacture calibres, with the Laureato’s GP01800 running at 4Hz over 54 hours, and the One’s P5 running at 4Hz over 72 hours.
You could argue that the One belongs in a higher category of watchmaking than the Laureato, and that’s definitely reflected in its pricing and availability. If you wanted to buy the Laureato, you could pretty much just walk into a Girard-Perregaux dealer and pay the RRP of US$14,300. Urban Jürgensen’s website doesn’t even have a catalogue, and when not buying them directly, you’re most likely going to be shopping second-hand. The RRP for the reference 5241 was US$26,950, and at the time of writing, the only one on Chrono24 is listed for US$29,127.
The verdict and my pick
So the Urban Jürgensen One is twice the price of the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, but is it twice the watch? I wouldn’t say the disparity in quality is anywhere near the disparity in price, but I do think the One’s exclusivity is a valid reason for its cost, along with the other factors. There is a bit of unfair stigma around the Laureato for its similarities to the Royal Oak, but they’re more like relatives than lookalikes. Personally, I find the Laureato more attractive, as I’m more drawn to lines than curves. I also appreciate the slenderness of the Laureato at 10.68mm, versus the 12.1mm thickness of the One. That said, the high-watchmaking appeal of Urban Jürgensen is captivating, and the calibre P5 is arguably prettier to look at through the sapphire display caseback.