Best California dial watches

Charlotte Harris

For an industry with such a rich tapestry of history, it’s surprising to realise just how many mysteries remain unanswered in the world of horology. Who really wore the Explorer up Everest? Who bought Paul Newman’s Daytona? And why is the California dial called the California dial? While Tenzing Norgay probably knows the answer to the first question, and Aurel Bacs definitely knows the answer to the second, nobody really knows the answer to that last one. Some theorise that the “California dial”, which splits half the numerals on a watch’s dial between Roman and Arabic, is so-called because that particular design was exceedingly popular in the state of California in the ’30s and ’40s. Others speculate that it’s because of a notable Californian watchmaker, Kirk Rich, who was churning out this particular design in the 1970s. The truth is, we’re probably never going to know the real answer to this question, but we do know one thing for certain – a watch with a California dial is a good-looking thing, and below are a handful of timepieces you can purchase with the distinctive design.

Timex Marlin Hand-Wound California Dial

As the owner of a Timex Marlin Hand-Wound California watch and a loud advocate for its value proposition, I’m going to be a little biased here and say this is one of the best options on the list if you’re looking for an entry-level California dial. Timex are well-known for its accessible pricing, and the Marlin collection has well and truly satiated those of us with limited funds and a love of mechanical movements. The Marlin California dial is a 1960s-inspired design, placing its Roman and Arabic numerals on a crisp matte white display surrounded by a compact 34mm steel case and a green alligator-style leather strap. Its impressive price tag is largely down to its unnamed Chinese manual-winding movement. Price: US$259.

Boldr Ranger

Popular among the microbrand cognoscenti, Boldr is best known for their line-up of affordable, robust and attractive field watches. Their most retro leaning out of the lot is the Boldr Ranger which merges a no-nonsense field watch case with a vintage California dial. Engineered from bead-blasted stainless steel, the case arrives with a healthy 200 metre water resistance, sapphire crystal glass and the Seiko NH35A movement on show at the back. The dial is available in two colours; Kopje elects a matte black dial with beige-coloured hardware while Upepo offers a desert-inspired khaki-coloured display. Both glow brightly in the dark thanks to their green glowing Super-LumiNova inserts. Price: US$299, available from the Time+Tide Shop

Serica Ref. 6190 Field Chronometer

As a brand, Serica is still somewhat flying under the radar, but could very easily be considered a rising star. And the Field Chronometer is an excellent example of what is behind this rapid rise, featuring many fan-favourite features, whether it’s the field watch styling, the practicality of the Bonklip bracelet, or the brand’s transparency when it comes to sourcing components such as its Soprod M100 movement. The California dial version of the ref. 6190 adds just enough of a design quirk to keep this practical layout interesting without detracting from its pure functionality. This model is currently available for pre-orders, and for those who follow the brand closely will recognise it as a update to the much-loved ref. 4512.  Price: €990 (∼US$1,060)

NOMOS Club Campus

Nomos Glashütte has a knack for doing things their own way. Whether it be its manufacture calibre movements, pared-back Bauhaus aesthetics, or indeed even the California dial on the excellent Club model – it’s just quintessentially Nomos. What the German watchmaker has done with its interpretation of the traditional California dial is essentially flip it on its head — literally. Instead of the top half of the dial being Roman numerals and the bottom half Arabic, it’s the opposite. Nomos has also done away with the VI numeral, and in its place is a snailed small seconds display. These are fun, youthful watches made all the more unique by their brightly coloured dials, wearable 36mm or 38mm cases and in-house manual winding movement. Price: US$1,500

Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic California

The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic California is a model of cool contrasts, uniquely combining a retro California dial with an aggressive cushion-shaped case. This is one of those watches with plenty of talking points: the grained black dial is set with off-white lume for the Roman and Arabic numerals and hands while the case itself is undeniably imposing with its deep bevels and industrial-like brushing. It’s not an oversized watch though, despite what its profile might suggest, measuring to just 11.5mm tall and 41mm wide. It arrives on a textured rubber strap and displays the AL-525 calibre, also known as the Sellita SW200-1, through the back. Price: US$1,795

Bremont x Bamford Aurora

British watchmakers Bremont and Bamford Watch Department have recently launched their second collaborative timepiece named the Bremont x Bamford Aurora Limited Edition with another California dial. Like the original, it combines the architecture of Bremont’s S502 diver’s watch with customisation-king George Bamford’s black DLC coating. Its key difference is in its glow-in-the-dark capability, which has been pumped up a notch or two with northern lights-inspired green Super-LumiNova adorning the California sandwich dial and the sapphire 24-hour bezel. It’s a 43mm wide and 16.5mm tall watch with a 500-metre water resistance rating and a GMT-equipped, automatic winding Calibre BE-93-2AV, a modified ETA 2892. Price: US$5,450

Panerai Radiomir California

Panerai has a long history with the distinctive dial design. In fact, the Radiomir, Panerai’s first ever timepiece, sported the California dial from as early as 1936. As such, both the Italian watchmaker and the inimitable dial layout are inextricably linked. The only watchmaker on earth that could potentially lay claim to having a closer relationship with the X, XI, I and II aesthetic is Rolex, because the Swiss outfit has been using California dials in the production of its watches for even longer. The latest Panerai Radiomir California sports the Radiomir’s familiar cushion-shaped case with a 45mm diameter, a dégradé green dial with luminous Arabic and Roman numerals and the manual-winding P.5000 calibre with an eight-day power reserve. Price: US$12,300