Leonardo DiCaprio-backed ID Genève debuts vineyard-inspired limited edition
Zach Blass- The new ID Genève Circular 1 Grenat Dial Limited Edition is created in partnership with Mondin and Nisiar.
- Its strap is 75% natural materials, derived from raw grape marc from the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation.
- The Circular collection emphasises circular materials such as local and traceable steel and refurbished movements.
As the next generation of watch collectors enters the purchasing pool, and with a general society more awake to the climate crisis, sustainable watchmaking has begun to become more and more prevalent as demand for such products grows. As I mentioned when I last covered ID Genève, according to a 2023 Deloitte Gen Z and Millennial survey, six out of ten Gen Zs and millennials are willing to pay more for sustainable products and services, but more than half (53% of Gen Zs/55% of millennials) think it will become harder or impossible to do so if the economic situation does not improve.
Personally, I have always found that the longevity of a robust and reliable mechanical watch is in of itself sustainable. It’s not an Apple Watch to be tossed once rendered obsolete, but companies like ID Genève have taken things a step further, and as a result caught the eye of a notable environmental activist who does some acting on the side – Leonardo DiCaprio – who was a part of a CHF 2M investment.
ID Genève’s core philosophy is “circular watchmaking”, maximising the amount of the watch that uses recycled, upcycled, and organic materials. This explains the name behind its core Circular range of watches and a new model has just debuted – the Circular 1 Grenat Dial Limited Edition – created in partnership with Mondin, a vine by-products specialist, to use its Nisiar straps made from raw grape marc.
The core premise of this limited edition Circular 1 has not changed. We once again have a 50-metre water-resistant and 100% recycled stainless steel case, 40mm in diameter and 9.65mm thick, with all raw material locally sourced and traceable. ID Genève describes the 4441 grade as the Rolls Royce of steel, and that the carbon footprint of this material is ten times lower than that of standard steel. The dial, while in a new red wine-inspired hue, also maintains the layout of its predecessors with the rotated “ID” logo at 12 o’clock, a full set of applied hour indices, three central hands, a 3 o’clock date window, and a stepped outer minutes track.
Integrated into the case is the aforementioned Nisiar strap. The Nisiar name is an inverse-play on the French word “raisin” (which translates to grape), which is fitting considering the strap is made from grape waste. ID Genève explains: “This material stands out for its lack of textile support, giving it resistance and durability equivalent to animal leather, with a composition of 75% natural materials. Making one square meter of Nisiar requires about 1kg of raw grape marc.” Its brown colour is the result of the tannins from thirteen different grape varieties of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation.
Exhibited within, the tried-and-true ETA 2824 powers the ID Genève Circular 1 – but there is a sustainable twist. This 38-hour automatic calibre is a certified refurbished ETA 2824. So, rather than using a new calibre, ID Genève upcycles by sourcing unsold stock of the calibre in order to not create any further waste. Neat.
The challenge ID Genève faces is in regards to the Circular 1 price point. At CHF 4,210, those not driven by environmental conservation may struggle paying such a price for a watch that ultimately uses a mass produced calibre found in watches at a fraction of the price. That being said, it is worth acknowledging the added cost of using and sourcing all of the sustainable materials that make up the Circular 1. It’s akin to the conundrum of organic produce, the healthier something is for you, the more the grocery market will charge for it. Considering ID Genève doesn’t produce such a large quantity of watches, I would be interested to see the brand source unsold stock of a higher-end calibre. Were they able to find, say, unsold Vaucher movements, and situate a Circular watch driven by it at around US$7,000, I think more watch geeks could be converted to the green side.
Ultimately what ID Genève does is very admirable and pioneering. The brand notably even created a watch with a regenerative carbon material that heals itself when heated. They also invested in creating biodegradable packaging should you want to part with your box and papers responsibly. I will continue to keep an eye on ID Genève and I’m excited to see the circular Swiss watchmaker grow.
ID Genève Circular 1 Grenat Dial, Nisiar Limited Edition pricing and availability
The ID Geneve Circular 1 Grenat Dial, Nisiar Limited Edition is available now as a limited edition of 40 pieces. Price: CHF 4,210 (~US$5,000)
| Brand | ID Genève |
| Model | Circular 1 Grenat Nisiar Limited Edition |
| Reference | 26420ST.OO.A828CR.01 |
| Case Dimensions | 41mm (D) x 9.65mm (T) |
| Case Material | Recycled stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | 70% recycled sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Red sunburst dial |
| Strap | Nisiar brown vegan leather strap, pin buckle |
| Movement | ETA 2824, refurbished, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | 40 pieces |
| Price | CHF 4,210 |