My top five picks from the Ineichen Complications auction

Ricardo Sime

The auctions at Ineichen never disappoint and, on December 3, that track record continues. Because on that day, at 2pm CET, bidding will begin for their Complications: Dates & Calendars auction. Fifty lots of some of the most complicated and beautiful watches from storied brands like Vacheron Constantin, Breguet and JLC. So much complicated goodness that one could get lost. However, amid this treasure trove are five watches that have really peaked my interest.

A. Lange & Söhne Langematik Perpetual

For me, it all starts off with those talented watchmakers from Germany. Which makes sense as the bulk of what is being offered at the Ineichen Complications Auction are references from their shops. And of those references, the platinum-cased Langematik Perpetual is my favourite.

It bears a beautifully symmetrical dial which, though it displays quite a bit of information, doesn’t look cluttered. The 38.5mm sizing should also be wearable on my 7.5 inch wrist. And finally, the L922.1 movement, when viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback, is absolutely stunning.

It’s really hard to go wrong with a Lange.

F.P.Journe Octa Chrono

The F.P.Journe Octa Chrono is one of my favourite design interpretations of a chronograph. The asymmetrical layout, with the chronograph counter at 9 o’clock, creates a feast for the eyes and is a perfect translation of Journe’s design language to the complication.

As for its build, the Octa Chrono’s 40mm platinum case and the use of ruthenium (a platinum hardener) adds a nice touch. The watch also benefits from Journe’s wonderfully thin calibre 1300 automatic movement, which keeps thickness down to a very comfortable 10.6mm.

And the final icing on the cake? The watch is part of a limited edition of only 99 pieces, which represents about a third of the total run of the Octa Chronograph family of watches.

Vacheron Constantin Patrimony

Enough platinum (for now). Time to enjoy this yellow gold Vacheron Constantin Patrimony.

So much is going on here. Pointer day, date and week of the year. Even moon phase. All this in only 36mm of real estate. And to complete the package, the watch comes with the original box and the all-too-important pin pusher for the complication buttons on the side of the case.

With Vacheron’s popularity on the rise recently, this vintage (early ’90s) watch would be a stylish and affordable way of entering the fold.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Grande Date Septantième

Back to platinum. And what better way to make a return than with this JLC Reverso Grande Date Septantième.

Created to celebrate the 70th anniversary of the Reverso, the Grande Date Septantième brought many new developments to the table for collection. An eight-day power reserve. A big date display. And an 879 movement that had 18 kt white-gold plates and bridges (beautifully displayed after reversing the watch).

It also ushered in the XGT sized Reverso watches. Meaning this is quite a big boy for a rectangular watch, coming in at 29mm by 39mm. All these firsts mean this is definitely a watch that’s worth a bid.

Konstantin Chaykin Minotaur

Rounding out my top five is the Konstantin Chaykin Minotaur.

Created to celebrate the Year of the Bull for the 2021 Chinese New Year, the watch takes things a step further. Chaykin also incorporated the Greek legend of the Minotaur and the labyrinth he protected. This means we get this intricate layout of a labyrinth on the dial, which adds this amazing sense of texture and depth.

Yet what really brings this home for me is the decision to use bronze for the 42mm case. The way that material uniquely patinas almost gives life to the bull on the dial. Aging with it as the watch is being worn and enjoyed.