The why and how of the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind
Borna BošnjakWhat’s the first thing that comes to mind when you think of Cartier? For me, it’s probably a classic, rectangular Tank Solo with a white dial. For others, I wouldn’t be surprised if it was one of a few others – Santos, Love Bracelet, perhaps even a leashed panther. But how many think of a red-dialled, platinum watch that runs in reverse?
Okay, the picture I paint of the Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind is a bit extreme – the reality is, as you’d expect from Cartier, a lot more refined. But that’s exactly the intrigue that surrounds this recent release, as it’s a move I’d expect from a micro or independent as opposed to a brand of the calibre of Cartier (pun fully intended). So, how exactly did Cartier achieve this, and why did it choose to go in this direction? I can answer at least one of those questions objectively.
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The movement
Seeing as the reverse running of the Rewind is its main novelty, let’s start with the movement. Cartier denotes the movement powering the Santos-Dumont Rewind as the 230 MC, which is a variant of the widely adopted 430 MC with reversed gearing. This 18-jewel calibre provides a 38-hour power reserve, beating at 3Hz, but only measuring 2.1mm in height. Breaking down its origins further, the movement is actually developed from Piaget’s 430P, an unsurprising fact considering Piaget’s efforts in ultra-thin watchmaking. Sure, the result is perhaps not as impressive as some of Cartier’s other haute horlogerie efforts à la Masse Mystérieuse, but it is proof that Cartier is capable of manufacturing unique complications.
The closed caseback doesn’t reveal much in terms of finishing, but the 430 MC is usually adorned with Cartier logo-embossed plates and circularly brushed wheels, so I’d expect the 230 MC to follow a similar course. Considering the level of decoration, I’m not mad Cartier chose not to display it.
The dial
Now, for the thing you’ll spend the most time looking at, both for its beauty and the sure-fire confusion that is to ensue. The highly reflective Roman numeral indices are applied to a carnelian red stone dial, matched by delicate Breguet-style hands. There is no mention of its unique time-telling way on the dial – at first glance, the Rewind could easily pass as a regular Santos-Dumont. You’ve still got the signature white railroad minutes running around the dial’s perimeter, matched in colour by the minimal Cartier script above the pinion.
If you’re wondering whether there’s a trick in deciphering the Rewind’s dial, allowing you to easily get adjusted to its reverse running – well, there isn’t one. At least not one that I’ve figured out. However, through the process of writing this review, I’ve actually become more and more accustomed to telling the time with it: I am glad that Cartier went with numerals over just stick indices, as I envision those as taking a lot longer to get used to.
The case
I know that the novelty of the Santos-Dumont Rewind is the stone dial and reversed movement, but the platinum case has to be one of my favourites from any brand, period. The dimensions are pretty much perfect for a dressy-leaning all-rounder, and the platinum construction adds in any heft that might be lost thanks to the diminutive sizing.
At 31.4mm in width and 7.3mm in height, the Santos-Dumont Rewind makes the most of the ultra-thin movement, leaving enough room for elegant lugs that stretch out to 43.5mm. The mirror-polished reflective bezel is picked up by other polished highlights on the lug bevels and crown, with the remainder of the case a highly textured brushed finish. The ruby cabochon on the beaded crown telegraphs that this is a platinum Cartier: a flex in the most Cartier of ways.
The strap
If you’ve ever come across Cartier’s lacquered Santos-Dumont models, you would’ve experienced the burgundy alligator leather strap featured on the Rewind. It’s the perfect stylistic choice considering the overall colour scheme, finished in a platinum folding clasp.
The verdict
Between the fantastically wearing case and deep red dial, the Santos-Dumont is a compelling watch. But the inclusion of the Rewind’s reversed 230 MC calibre quite literally flips the proposition on its head. It’s no longer just a cool new Cartier, but also a unique complication proposition done in a thoroughly uncomplicated way. The fact that this is a 200-piece limited edition means it’s already an exclusive release, made appealing to an even smaller pool of potential customers thanks to its quirky time-telling.
It’s not the first backwards-running Cartier – the brand has done something similar with the Santos Galbée Rotation Inversée – but if anything, it makes a lot more sense in a platinum-cased, special-occasion watch that will entice the keenest of Cartier collectors.
Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind pricing and availability
The Cartier Santos-Dumont Rewind is a limited edition of 200 pieces. Price: US$38,400
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Santos-Dumont Rewind |
| Reference | WGSA0102 |
| Case Dimensions | 31.4mm (W) x 7.3mm (T) x 43.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Platinum |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Carnelian stone |
| Strap | Red alligator leather, platinum folding clasp |
| Movement | 230 MC, Piaget 430P base, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Functions | Reversed hours and minutes |
| Availability | 200 pieces |
| Price | US$38,400 |