The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll has a dial like you’ve never seen
Borna BošnjakOther than being associated with the unique Freak concept, Ulysse Nardin has close ties with the sea. Whether we’re talking about early escapades in marine chronometer production, or current models, many of which are dive watches or inspired by marine chronometers, the anchor logo is a good hint for the brand’s source of inspiration. With that in mind, the dial of the new Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll should come as no surprise, cut from a piece of chrysocolla, a naturally occurring mineraloid with a colour palette similar to turquoise. While that’s the most obvious novelty, the Diver Atoll is a curious mixture of bling and sporty specs, so let me take you through the details.
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The dial
Your eye will most likely be immediately drawn by the mottled texture of navy, emerald, and brown gracing the dial. It immediately reminds me of an aerial shot of some remote tropical location, yet untainted by human presence. Like a distant atoll, say – the name must be a coincidence. Much like with stone dials, the chrysocolla slices that will be fitted to all 100 examples of the Diver Atoll will all be unique.
Apart from the inherently busy texture of the mineral, there’s quite a lot going on with the Diver Atoll’s dial. The handset is a seemingly simple fencepost, though the hour and minute hand lume plots are bisected with a silver strip. The Ulysse Nardin logo is split with a large, applied anchor, there’s a circular date window cut-out at 6 o’clock, and hash marks extending from the diamond hour markers. Being honest, I’d prefer to have some of the dial elements pared back a touch to really let the dial material shine unobstructed.
The case
Ulysse Nardin didn’t stop with the dial, adding to the spectacular with a diamond-set bezel, making the Diver Atoll more of a sporty watch than a proper diver. If you did want to use the bezel, the brand didn’t completely ice it out, leaving the blue markers at the cardinal directions and interrupting the diamond setting at five-minute intervals. Most of the steel case is rendered in a high polish, save for the thin, knobby outer ring of the bezel designed as such for grip, receiving a circularly brushed finish.
On the wrist, the Diver Atoll follows in the footsteps of other, smaller Ulysse Nardin Diver models, measuring 39mm in diameter and only 11mm in height. The diameter will already please most watch fans, but the thickness (or lack thereof) is especially impressive considering the automatic movement and 300 metres of water resistance.
The strap
Owing to the more leisurely spirit of the Diver Atoll, Ulysse Nardin presents on a choice of white rubber or pearlescent white alligator leather. The former will certainly be the strap of choice for those wishing to actually test out the underwater capabilities of the Diver Atoll, while the vintage-stitched alligator will take care of the everyday.
The movement
A final nod to the brand’s nautical beginnings is the compass rose engraved into the steel caseback, meaning you don’t get to see the UN-816 movement that powers the Diver Atoll. Fret not, however. If you’ve seen a Sellita SW300 (or ETA 2892-A2) previously, you’ll also be familiar with the UN-816, as it forms the base for Ulysse Nardin’s modifications that include the addition of a silicon escapement. Beating at 4Hz, this automatic movement has a power reserve of 42 hours, and while it’s a solid performer, one could wonder whether Ulysse Nardin could’ve sprung for one of its higher-end, in-house movements given the price.
The verdict
There’s not much in terms of subtlety here, both for the Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll’s unique dial and blingy bezel. The brand does try and retain some form of utility with the latter, but the style of the watch and overall legibility won’t be as suited for diving escapades. Overall, you’ll be better off with a Diver Net or Skeleton if you’re after an out-and-out dive watch from Ulysse Nardin. If you’re after something that’ll look at home in a swanky bar on the French Riviera, however, that playground seems far better suited for the Diver Atoll.
Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll pricing and availability
The Ulysse Nardin Diver Atoll is now available as a limited edition of 100 pieces. Price: US$15,800
| Brand | Ulysse Nardin |
| Model | Diver Atoll |
| Reference | 8163-182B1LE-9A-ATOLL/3A 8163-182B1LE-9A-ATOLL/1A |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 11mm (T) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel, diamond-set bezel |
| Water Resistance | 300 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Chrysocolla blue, diamond hour markers |
| Strap | White rubber or white alligator leather straps |
| Movement | UN-816, Sellita SW300 base, automatic, silicon escapement |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Limited to 100 pieces |
| Price | US$15,800 |