The Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds is dressed up with everywhere to go
Borna BošnjakThough it has long not been decidedly more affordable nor more readily available than some of the competitors in its class, the Czapek Antarctique continues to be the connoisseur’s pick. Apart from perhaps the Antarctique Révélation, the model has never been overly shouty about its high-end execution, a trend that’s set to continue with the latest additions to the collection, despite the addition of 13 sparkly diamonds. The Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds features a glossy aventurine glass dial with applied diamond hour markers faceted in a manner developed specifically for this watch. The result is a stunning, albeit very limited, variant of the Antarctique that Czapek is hoping will be better-suited for more formal affairs.
The dial
Czapek has been on a roll with beautiful dials recently, namely in the new Promenade collection. The new Flying Diamonds is less obvious in its incredible intricacy, but no less impressive from a technical standpoint. But let’s get the specs out of the way first. Aventurine is a type of glass with metallic flake inclusions, created by accident in a Murano glass workshop, and named a long time before the discovery of the stone of the same name. Czapek has once again worked with dial specialists at GT Cadrans to create the invisible setting method for the tapering diamond indices. The indices themselves are based on a diamond cut specifically designed for Czapek, featuring more facets than a standard baguette cut, and as a result reflecting more light and appearing, for the lack of a better word, more sparkly. One thing to note is that the diamonds on the Antarctique S model are noticeably smaller, totalling 0.325ct, while the 40.5mm Antarctique sports 0.585ct in total.
Admittedly, I’m no expert in diamonds, but I can see why Czapek would invest in developing a proprietary diamond cut. Even to a layperson’s eyes, the internal reflections, and the way that the light seems to flow into the sharpened points of the indices makes for a stunning display, especially once you factor in the reflections of the aventurine’s metal flecks.
The case
Though the dials have certainly gotten more dressed-up, the Antarctique case doesn’t compromise on any of its sporty capabilities. You still have a choice between 38.5mm and 40.5mm sizes, both with a thickness of just 10.6mm and water-resistance of 120 metres thanks to a screw-down crown.
Regardless of the size you pick, you can’t argue against these specifications, as they’re pretty much the golden standard of versatile, everyday watches with a sporty edge. Finishing is at a level you’d expect from a watch at this price point, with plenty of brushing in alternating directions and no edge left unbevelled.
The bracelet
Where the Antarctique really stands out for me from a wearability standpoint is the bracelet. At first glance, it’s a pretty standard integrated affair with a butterfly clasp closure, but there’s a secret. Click the buttons next to the clasp opener, and you can make the most of Czapek’s micro-adjustment system that lets you slightly open that first link. It works really well, and though brands like Omega and Patek Philippe have adopted it in some of their models, it’s still rare to see in a butterfly clasp.
A quick word on finishing – I’m not sure whether the brand will offer the choice of polished or brushed C-links as they do on some other Antarctique models, Having said that, I could certainly live with them being polished considering this is a dressier take on the model, especially as the watch will come with your choice of additional rubber or leather strap that can be changed over with no tools.
The movement
My love for micro-rotors is well-documented, and is one of the reasons why I’m so fond of Czapek as a brand. The SXH5 was the first movement developed by the brand without outside help (previously employing Chronode and Vaucher), and sports a free-sprung balance, a 4Hz beat rate, platinum micro-rotor, and a 60-hour power reserve. Apart from the specs that are more than decent, the SXH5 just looks fantastic. Czapek took inspiration from old pocket watch movements that looked airy and uncluttered, as a result skeletonising much of the going train, and applying a noticeable degree of hand-finishing. While this is not a traditionally decorated movement, the brand still manages to include those all-important internal angles, most notably in the black-polished cock right in the centre of the movement.
The verdict
This is not a revolutionary novelty for Czapek, but it is one that adds a new dimension to the Antarctique, that being a much dressier one. Is this going to replace an out-and-out black tie watch? Absolutely not, but I can absolutely see it dazzling at a cocktail party of some sort – that dial and diamonds will without doubt contribute to the sparkle. The rest of the formula is tried-and-true, including a comfortable bracelet and pretty movement, and as a result, I find little to complain about apart from its very limited nature.
Czapek Antarctique Flying Diamonds pricing and availability
The Czapek Antarctique and Antarctique S Flying Diamonds are now available as limited-edition releases of 8 and 18 pieces, respectively. Price: CHF 42,800 (Antarctique), CHF 38,000 (Antarctique S)
Brand | Czapek |
Model | Antarctique Flying Diamonds Antarctique S Flying Diamonds |
Case Dimensions | 40.5mm (D) x 10.6mm (T) (Antarctique) 38.5mm (D) x 10.6mm (T) (Antarctique S) |
Case Material | Stainless steel |
Water Resistance | 120 metres, screw-down crown |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Aventurine glass, diamond indices |
Lug Width | Integrated |
Strap and bracelet | Steel C-link bracelet, butterfly clasp Additional calf leather or rubber strap |
Movement | SXH5, in-house, micro-rotor automatic |
Power Reserve | 60 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
Availability | 8 pieces (Antarctique) 18 pieces (Antarctique S) |
Price | CHF 42,800 (Antarctique) CHF 38,000 (Antarctique S) |