Improving upon history with the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph
Buffy AcaciaAt the moment, there are heaps of Swiss watchmakers being resurrected from the chaos of the Quartz Crisis, utilising their established catalogue of vintage designs to kick-start the nostalgia effect. Cimier isn’t quite the same, having been ‘back from the dead’ for over 20 years already and actually releasing watches of a much higher quality than it used to. The Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph is a great example of a brand embracing its past but knowing where to look forward.
Established with a focus on pin-pallet escapements, Cimier wasn’t just budget-friendly, it was pretty much the bargain bin. That isn’t to say that the watches were junk, but they were definitely aimed at the low end of Swiss watchmaking with movements that were practically considered disposable. When quartz watches took over the lowest rungs of the watchmaking ladder, brands like Cimier didn’t stand a chance, even if they did have their established fans. The new 711 Heritage Chronograph isn’t a vintage reissue by any stretch of the imagination, but it’s a retro-styled chronograph with nods to some of Cimier’s best design choices.
The dial
Jumping straight into the 711 Heritage Chronograph’s most eye-catching features, its dial is packed with unique touches without being alienating. The 711 in the name refers to having two chronograph subdials positioned at 7 o’clock and 11 o’clock, recording up to 12 hours and 30 minutes, respectively. A spiralled tachymeter runs along the inside of a recessed wheel around the dial’s centre, giving it great emphasis and accentuating the dial’s depth. When the subdials interrupt the tachymeter, themselves engraved with concentric rings, it then runs over them in a bright orange colour that matches the seconds hand.
Taking a look at some of the original Cimier Sport chronographs from the ‘50s and ‘60s, you can see how the style has been translated into a more contemporary take. A telemeter scale still runs around the dial’s perimeter, the Arabic numerals are still easy to read, and of course, the 711 subdial layout is something of a Cimier speciality. However, a modern logo, a bright blue sunburst finish and clinical execution of each element totally transform all the ingredients into a thoroughly modern watch. There is also a Panda-esque version with an aged cream dial and black subdials available.
The case
The dial of the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph may not be a reissue, but the case does a pretty convincing job of capturing some Cimier chronographs from the 1970s. The squared-off lugs almost take on a squat kind of tonneau shape, not quite a cushion, but certainly more brawny than most ‘60s styles. The brushed finish of its mostly flat surface imparts a strong tool watch vibe, while the polished bezel and chamfered edge add a little bit of sophistication back in. Ultimately, it’s very versatile stylistically.
As the case is rather stout in proportion, its dimensions do a great job of taming its appearance on the average wrist. The diameter is 39.5mm with a 47mm lug-to-lug length, so it should wear easily for smaller wrists as well, without losing presence. The thickness of 14.45mm will definitely be felt, but it’s not bad considering that the case is 100m water resistant and houses an automatic chronograph movement with an additional module. The crystal is a flat box sapphire with an anti-reflective coating on the inside.
The movement
Labelled as the CIM 100, the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph uses an ETA/Valjoux 7750 movement. It was the automatic chronograph of choice for millions of watches throughout the 1970s and is still in use today, known for both its reliability and accuracy. A special module has been incorporated to allow for the 711 sub-dial display, which is a unique point for this watch. Otherwise, it has the same 48-hour power reserve and 28,800vph beat rate we would expect from the iconic movement. It’s a vast improvement from the actual movements that Cimier used to make, such as those with a ‘Chronostop’ function, which just hacked the entire movement as a cheap alternative to actual chronographs.
The strap
There are three strap options when ordering a 711 Heritage Chronograph, two being steel bracelets and the third being a black leather strap with simple side stitches. Because of the straight shoulders between the lugs, fitted end-links aren’t required for either bracelet, and they both look complete with the watch. The single-link style is definitely reminiscent of ’70s style, while the Milanese mesh bracelet we’ve photographed is much more timeless and less adventurous. All three options come with quick-release spring bars if you want to purchase them separately from Cimier or find third-party straps in a 22mm size.
The verdict
If someone described to you a case from the ’70s and a refinished dial from the ‘50s, you’d probably think that the watch would feel a little confused. However, the Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph feels confident in its modern-day identity and stands proud amongst many other Swiss chronographs in its price bracket. Cimier is no longer a company that produces the cheapest Swiss chronographs possible but is rather a well-balanced option for both value and design.
The Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph price and availability
The Cimier 711 Heritage Chronograph is now available from Cimier’s website. Price: CHF 2,480 (Leather strap, ~US$2,930) / CHF 2,525 (Mesh bracelet, ~US$2,990) / CHF 2,575 (Solid bracelet, ~US$3,050)
Brand | Cimier |
Model | 711 Heritage Chronograph |
Case Dimensions | 39.5mm (D) x 14.45mm (T) x 47mm (LTL) |
Case Material | Stainless steel |
Water Resistance | 100 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
Dial | Blue sunburst or vintage panda |
Lug Width | 22mm |
Bracelet | Milanese mesh, steel bracelet, or black leather strap |
Movement | Modified ETA/Valjoux 7750, automatic |
Power Reserve | 48 hours |
Functions | Hours, minutes, chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour counters |
Availability | Available now |
Price | CHF 2,480 (Leather strap, ~US$2,930) CHF 2,525 (Mesh bracelet, ~US$2,990) CHF 2,575 (Solid bracelet, ~US$3,050) |