7 of the best mid-size watches between 35mm – 40mm
Zach BlassNot too hot, not too cold. Collectors often seek a Goldilocks, mid-size watch for their wrist – the sweet spot diameter for the average wrist between 35mm and 40mm in diameter. Keep in mind, though, the lug-to-lug is the most important measurement for fit. As a small-to-average-wristed watch collector myself, this is the zone in which I typically look for watches. Below are what I believe to be seven of the best mid-size watches, ranging from US$325 to US$12,000 – but you can bet your bottom dollar that I will update this buying guide in the future with even more picks and at even wider range of price points.
Seiko SRPK33
What a shock! At the entry-level, who better than Seiko to offer a mechanical option? The Seiko SRPK33 hits the sweet spot with its dimensions of 38mm in diameter, 12.1mm in thickness, and 44.2mm lug-to-lug span across the wrist. Seiko fans rejoiced when its 5 Sports lineup was revamped with a new and more compact take on the fan-favourite, dropping down from its original 42.5mm diameter. Even better, amongst its range of colour options, the SRPK33 was presented with a Tiffany-adjacent turquoise dial right as the colour trend was kicking off. While it’s just a few hundred dollars, the 100-metre water-resistant watch has an in-house automatic movement that includes both day and date complications. Price: US$325
Hamilton Khaki Field Murph 38mm
If you caught our recent Time+Tide Tribe video underscoring some of the best watches under US$2,000, seeing the 38mm version of the Hamilton Khaki Field Murph on this list should also hardly be a surprise. With its Interstellar provenance, 80-hour automatic movement, and irrefutably wrist-friendly dimensions of 38mm x 11.1mm x 44.7mm, this 100-metre water-resistant watch with an uncontroversial black dial and collector-appreciated fauxtina accents is an undeniable winner. Price: US$895, available in the Time+Tide Shop
Furlan Marri Disco Volante
Speaking of vintage-inspired, Furlan Marri has long dazzled the watch community with its attention to vintage details and bringing designs of the past to the present at an exceptional price. In a marketplace where consumers are beginning to be more interested in less usual shapes, its revival of the Disco Volante style was cleverly positioned in a 38mm watch, which is larger than most vintage Disco Volante examples. Having no (or hidden) lugs, however, its lug-to-lug is equal to its diameter, so it keeps a vintage feel without being too small for modern tastes. My personal favourite is the salmon-dialled variant, with a hand-finished movement you can expect to be looking at its exhibition caseback often. And despite the elevated finish of the movement, it’s still offered under US$3,000. Price: US$2,780 (excl. tax), available now for pre-orders from the Time+Tide Shop
TAG Heuer Carrera Date 36
Stepping into the entry-luxury segment, TAG Heuer caught the attention of mid-size watch-lovers with its updated Carrera Date 36 lineup. In particular, the pink dial variant came just in time ahead of brand ambassador Ryan Gosling’s Barbie performance. The automatic Calibre 7 may have an ETA 2892A2 base, but it does offer 56 hours of power reserve. Between the welcome 36mm case size (10mm thick and 41.6mm lug-to-lug), eye-catching range of dial colours, and the prestige of the TAG Heuer name, the Carrera Date 36 is an excellent mid-size daily wearer in my mind. Price: US$3,200
Tudor Black Bay 54
In my opinion, the Tudor Black Bay 54 was one of the strongest releases of 2023. With so many watch buyers dying to get their hands on vintage dive watches from the ’50s and ’60s, Tudor’s BB54 scratches an itch better than any brand can. If Rolex won’t return to the Submariner’s original 37.5mm diameter, leave it to the the more adventurous Tudor to take care of business. Every bit as spec’d up as its larger siblings, the 37mm Black Bay 54 has a distinct advantage over the steel 39mm BB58 models in that it uses a T-Fit micro-adjustment clasp, akin to Rolex’s Glidelock. This is an obvious pick for this list, I need not justify it any further. Price: US$3,700 (on rubber), US$3,900 (on bracelet)
Grand Seiko SBGY007 “Omiwatari”
The closest thing to a steel dress watch version of the fan-favourite SBGA211 Snowflake, the SBGY007 Omiwatari really shined a spotlight on Grand Seiko’s dress watch capabilities and the Elegance collection as a whole. With a manually wound Spring Drive calibre, you will not find a more accurate spring-driven dress watch on the market – unless it’s another Spring Drive. Its highly curvaceous case front is more difficult to Zaratsu polish than many of Grand Seiko’s more faceted geometries, and it has fantastic proportions – 38.5mm x 10.2mm x 43.7mm. If you want to keep it classy yet casual with a mid-size watch, the SBGY007 is very hard to beat. Price: US$8,300
Omega Specialties Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition
The obvious Omega pick for a best mid-size watches list would be the various 38mm Seamaster Aqua Terra models. If you want Omega, in a mid-size, and under US$10,000, you check out the brand’s Aqua Terra Shades variants, or if you prefer to play it safe, the recent black lacquer dial model is a smokeshow too. But if you’re adventurous enough to go for an unexpected Omega heater, the recent Specialties Paris 2024 Bronze Gold Edition is a killer mid-size watch. At 39mm in diameter, 11.7mm in thickness, and 46.2mm lug-to-lug, it is perhaps on the larger end of the mid-size spectrum. But in the modern era, many will find these dimensions agreeable.
In an era of Speedmaster and Seamaster, many are not accustomed to Omega’s dress watch prowess, and this Paris 2024 Edition is a great example. The bronze gold case offer precious metal vibes while keeping the price reasonable, especially when you consider the hobnailed dial is forged from solid silver. Then, inside, you have a METAS-certified, in-house, Co-Axial calibre 8926 with 72 hours of power reserve. Pretty and powerful. I rest my case, your honour. Price: US$12,000