Spectacular, not spooky: here are 11 of the best skeleton watches

Jamie Weiss

Being immersed in the watch space can sometimes feel like a never-ending conversation about market values, flex culture and the perfect watch diameter. While these are all valid topics, they can sometimes distract us from what’s truly special about mechanical watches. The combination of gears, springs, and human engineering that all combine to create a nearly silent symphony of mechanical wonder is quite a sight to behold… This is why skeleton watches are so cool, as they give us an even closer look into the inner workings of these mechanical marvels. Skeleton watches can be a bit flashy, but that’s kind of the point – and after all, who among us isn’t at least a little bit of a horological voyeur? In any case, take a peep at the following list of some of the best skeleton watches you’ll find anywhere.

A quick note on the definition

As Borna goes into detail in his brilliant education piece here, many watchmakers these days play a little fast and loose with the definition of skeleton watches. To make a long story short, skeleton watches – or more accurately skeletonisation – refers to the practice of an artisan painstakingly modifying a watch’s movement by removing as much excess material as possible. These days, however, the term is used more broadly to describe most watches without a dial, or even just watches with “open hearts”. Strictly speaking, there is a distinction between watches or movements designed from the ground up to be open, and the traditional artistry of skeletonisation – but in this guide, we’re looking at a broader definition. Let’s get right into it, then!

Tissot Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette

Named after the street in Le Locle where Tissot’s factory is located (and “squelette” being French for “skeleton”), the Chemin Des Tourelles Squelette is one of the most affordable genuinely skeletonised watches on the market. This classically proportioned Tissot takes the Swatch Group’s ubiquitous Powermatic 80 movement and exposes it in the traditional sense, flanking the opened-up movement with a hobnail-finished ring for a touch of class. If you’re looking for a true skeleton watch that’s affordable but doesn’t look cheap, it’s hard to look past this Tissot. Price: US$975

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe

Traditionally, skeletonisation involved engraving watch movement elements with intricate designs. This Maurice Lacroix Aikon, however, goes the opposite route, decorating the watch’s case and integrated bracelet with ornate tribal motifs while at the same time exposing the watch’s movement. Its ML135 calibre might be based on the humble Sellita SW200-1, but it’s still a pretty thing, its armatures featuring a combination of brushing and sandblasting, and its rotor filleted. Price: US$4,250

Oris ProPilot X Calibre 115

The ProPilot line from Oris offers a workhorse model from a respected, and usually affordable, Swiss brand. The line also branches out into different materials at times as well. This model, though, feels just a touch more luxurious than most. Made from titanium and featuring a bracelet with an aircraft seat buckle-like clasp, it shows off its wares in a way seldom attempted by a brand like Oris. Even the barrel at 12 o’clock is skeletonised, giving the wearer a bird’s-eye view of the heart of their watch – and what a big heart it is too, as this Calibre 115 offers a massive 10-day power reserve. Price: US$8,900

Hublot Big Bang MECA-10 Ceramic Blue 45mm

The vast majority of Hublot’s modern range of watches are skeletonised or feature open dials of some description, but I thought I’d highlight a MECA-10 model as I think the MECA-10 movement is particularly handsome. Notably worn by tennis star Novak Djokovic, this ceramic Big Bang features blued movement elements to complement its blue ceramic case and rubber strap. The MECA-10 movement, with its rack and pinion-like elements and Meccano-like forms, demonstrates how skeletonisation can produce a distinctly tech-forward, industrial aesthetic that’s totally eye-catching. Price: US$25,200

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Skeleton Eight Days

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo has proven to be one of the most impactful releases in the luxury watch world in the past decade. A canvas upon which Bulgari has broken records in ultra-thin-ness and experimented with a wide variety of complications – including a tourbillon, a perpetual calendar, and avant-garde art, amongst other things – this Eight Days model makes the most of what a skeletonised Octo Finissimo could be. At just 5.15mm thick, it practically melts into the wrist in the best possible way, while the exposed movement perfectly complements the decidedly industrial feel of the OF design. And yes – an eight-day power reserve, too. Impressive stuff. Price: US$27,500

Cartier Santos de Cartier Skeleton

For some brands, having a claim to the first-ever wristwatch would be more than enough of an excuse to rest on their laurels. That’s certainly not the path that Cartier has chosen over the past century. The Santos line is legendary and easy to spot in the wild. However, for those wanting just a little more sizzle from their Santos, the Santos de Cartier Skeleton may be worth a second (and third) look. It’s hard not to love the classic Santos silhouette, but it’s virtually impossible to ignore when it’s accompanied by an oh-so-satisfying peek under the hood. The way the movement’s armatures are shaped into Roman numerals at each cardinal point is a genius piece of design. Price: US$30,400

Piaget Polo Skeleton Ceramic

Skeleton watches can be ornate and traditional, or give off high-tech modern vibes – this baby is definitely the latter. Piaget’s first-ever ceramic watch, the Polo Ceramic Skeleton ranks as one of the sportiest timepieces the brand has ever made. Featuring a jet-black ceramic case with black DLC titanium and blued elements, it’s powered by the in-house 1200S1 ultra-thin micro-rotor calibre. The design of this movement is exceptionally pleasing to the eye, with gracefully curved armatures, an exposed barrel at 12:30, and a blue micro-rotor that’s visible from both sides of the watch. Price: US$42,900

Bovet Pininfarina Aperto 1

High-end Swiss watchmaker Bovet and Italian automotive design firm Pininfarina – responsible for designing some of the most iconic cars of all time, including the Ferrari Daytona, Testarossa and 250 GT SWB – have been collaborating on watches since 2010, producing some seriously out-there designs. “Aperto” is Italian for “open” and is used in the car industry to refer to convertibles: fittingly, the Bovet Pininfarina Aperto 1 can be converted from a wristwatch to a pocket watch, pendant or table clock thanks to its “Amadeo” system. That open character extends to its beautifully hand-finished 15BMPF09-OW movement, which adroitly contrasts negative space with wave-finished armatures. Price: US$57,000

Parmigiani Tonda PF Skeleton

Parmigiani Fleurier has made waves as of late, muscling in on the turf of the “big boys” of Swiss watchmaking. When looking at the Tonda PF Skeleton in platinum, it’s easy to see why. The movement is pure elegance in a modern case: sweeping, organic curves; luxurious rose gold highlights; unparalleled ergonomics… Its skeletonised PF777 in-house calibre is only 3.9mm in height, inclusive of the full-size rotor – highly impressive – but the best touch is its use of colourless rubies is particularly genius. This is utterly elegant. Price: US$130,000

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

Vacheron Constantin is a brand steeped in history and old-world charm. That’s not to say that the brand is stuffy – far from it. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton is proof of that. Unlike the vast majority of VC creations, it’s actually only got a fairly minimally finished movement: it’s been put on display with only minimal brushing and some subtle perlage. Yet the symmetry and complexity of this calibre 1120 QPSQ/1 doesn’t need much adorning. Housed in pink gold and sporting a peripheral rotor (so as not to obstruct the beautiful skeletonisation), this is the ultimate blend of tradition and avant-garde. Price: US$200,000

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Openworked 41mm ‘Sand Gold’

Finally, another option for those with a penchant for industrial integrated bracelet skeleton watches comes from Audemars Piguet. It says “I’m here and you’d better recognise that” – not that you wouldn’t. It’s a Royal Oak, after all, designed by Gérald Genta, one of the most influential watch designers of all time. This particular option has all kinds of extra treats as well. First of all, it’s crafted from an alloy AP calls “sand gold”, an 18-carat gold alloy with high levels of copper and palladium, which features a warm, dusty look somewhere between white and rose gold. Add in a flying tourbillon taking pride of place in a beautifully symmetrical skeletonised movement, and you’ve got a show-stopper on your hands. Price: US$270,000

T+T Timeless pick: Zenith x Time+Tide Defy Skyline Skeleton “Night Surfer El Primero”

While we may be a bit partial to this pick, it’s for good reason. Zenith is a brand that has always leaned heavily on innovation and precision. The El Primero movement is one of the most legendary of the past century, and it’s almost a crime to not show it off with some skeletonisation. However, for all its heritage and history, this high-beat movement almost seems like just a nice added bonus when looking at how gorgeous the rest of the watch is. This is actually the second skeletonised watch we’ve made with Zenith – the first being the OG Night Surfer, based on the Defy Classic Skeleton – both of which feature our signature sandblasted titanium and dark blue combo. This model dialled up the night-time character even further, with ample amounts of lume applied to the star-shaped bridges, the hour marker indices, and the hands. It’s the perfect pick for those who want to brave those late-night sets and look great doing it… Or it was because we sold out of these a long time ago. Retail Price: US$12,000 from the Time+Tide Shop