5 of the best beads-of-rice bracelet watches evoking the advent of the tool watch

Buffy Acacia

Originally conceived by the Swiss manufacturer Gay Frères in the 1940s, beads-of-rice bracelets capture a fusion of utility and decorum like nothing else. They represent the intersection between watches as tools and as jewellery, with their polished intricacies allowing a relaxed drape across the wrist. Beads-of-rice bracelets have especially become synonymous with dive watches, or at least vintage-inspired ones with sporty origins. Here are 6 of the best.

Baltic Aquascaphe Classic

As a diver oozing with the laissez-aller swagger of the ‘50s and ‘60s, the Baltic Aquascaphe Classic retains the no-nonsense specifications we’ve come to expect from contemporary watchmaking. 200 metres of water resistance with a screw-down crown will take you as deep as most divers ever go, while the minimal 120-click bezel is probably better suited to keeping track of cooking and parking than precise dive times. A sandwich dial incorporates a range of depth to the creamy Super-LumiNova evoking decades of UV damage, and a sapphire bezel insert provides scratch protection at the same time as vintage Bakelite looks. Currently available from the Time+Tide Shop, it’s even more beautiful on its beads-of-rice bracelet. Price: €660 (~US$740)

Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver White Lollipop Manual

With a name like the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver, you’ll probably left wondering what it can’t do. The 100 metres of water resistance may make the “Sea Diver” label a little bit dubious, but that’s more than enough for the amount of swimming most people would do while wearing the watch. The twin-register chronograph makes for an attractive dial layout, and pops of red on the 30-minute counter and that bright lollipop seconds hand bring out the inner sportiness. Nivada Grenchen is renowned for having heaps of strap and bracelet options, but the beads-of-rice takes the cake by balancing with the dial’s complexity. It’s also available from the Time+Tide Shop. Price: US$1,975

Doxa SUB 300T

Although you can elect to buy your Doxa SUB 300T on a rubber strap, it’s kind of incomplete without its beads-of-rice bracelet. This is the ultimate flagship from Doxa, recreating the legend from 1969 which professional divers were hardly seen without. The 42.5mm cushion case is just 44.5mm from lug-to-lug, keeping it incredibly wearable considering its wrist presence, and allowing the bracelet to shine rather than drop immediately off the edge of your wrists. It’s water-resistant to a whopping 1,200 metres, incredibly personable in any of its available dial colours, and of course, available from the Time+Tide Shop. Price: US$2,200

Rado Captain Cook

If you’re into the late-‘50s vibe but don’t want to compromise on size, Rado still makes a fully-fledged dive watch in a 42mm stainless steel case, of course complete with a beads-of-rice bracelet. The slightly angled-in bezel pulls you into the dial, which can be had in green, blue, or black configurations. Being part of the Swatch Group means it has access to ETA’s range of 80-hour movements, and it’s that calibre that powers the Captain Cook with automatic winding and a 21,600vph beat rate. There are no unnecessary details on the dial to distract you, other than the playfully-swinging anchor logo and a date display with red numerals as an accent colour. Price: US$2,400

Grand Seiko SBGW305

Taking inspiration from the smart-casual watches of the 1960s, the Grand Seiko SBGW305 is an entirely convincing recreation of a vintage watch. Grand Seiko’s relationship with beads-of-rice bracelets seems to be fleeting, very rarely having more than one in its catalogue at a time. However, when they are available, they’re usually found in the Elegance Collection as with the SBGW305. The 37.3mm case is perfectly proportioned for a humble appearance, and the gently curved silver dial adds a nice, dynamic depth to an otherwise monochrome look. All of the appointments are sharply-detailed, and the calibre 9S64 provides a daily average rate of -3/+5 seconds per day with 72 hours of power reserve. Price: US$5,500

Time+Tide Timeless Pick: Vintage Omega Seamaster

The Omega Seamaster has had a pretty wild evolution, and its references over the years span from solid gold dress watches, to quartz-powered oddities, to depth-plunging monsters. I may be biased, as my great-grandfather’s 1958 Omega Seamaster was my first (and currently only) watch, but I think there’s a definite sweet spot during the ‘50s and ‘60s. Arriving fitted with an Omega-branded beads-of-rice bracelet and fitted end-links, they hold a certain understated power that’s perfection in a Swiss daily-wearer. The once-acceptable water resistance may be negligible these days, however as a casually dressy watch with a beads-of-rice bracelet, there’s a lot of value to be had.