8 of the best bicompax chronographs that do away with unnecessary sub-dials

Borna Bošnjak

There’s a particular charm that bicompax chronographs exude – the two opposing, symmetrical sub-dials giving the watch an unmistakable charm. To a watch nerd like myself, the birth and changing of the bicompax nomenclature is just as fascinating as some of the pieces that fall under the category – I’ve written an article all about it, in fact. I won’t spend too long explaining it, but essentially, Universal Genève came up with the name in the late 1930s under the Compax name, and gave us a few memorable references. From there, the Uni-Compax and Tri-Compax followed, encompassing the famous Nina Rindt and Eric Clapton models, but rather than referring to the number of sub-dials, the names were dependent on the complications. A watch like the Clapton sported a moonphase, calendar and chronograph functions across four sub-dials – therefore, Tri-Compax.

Nowadays, the name is mostly used for watches with two sub-dials positioned at 3 and 9 o’clock, and there are very few true bicompaxes around. Further complicating this whole thing are two-register chronographs with dates – are they bicompaxes, or is a date not considered complication enough? As this would quickly get out of hand, and as much as it pains me not to be a smartass about it, we’ll treat any two-register chrono as a bicompax from here on out.

Baltic Bicompax 003

First up is the Baltic Bicompax 003 from micro-powerhouse Baltic. The Bicompax 002 was long amongst the best entry-level chronographs, and is now updated with new dials and a new 36mm case size, which is music to vintage enthusiasts’ ears. The sector dial is less pronounced, especially on this salmon variant, giving the centre stage to the different textures that make it so pleasant on the wrist. The combination of intersecting circular brushing on the hour ring and the azurage of the sub-dials contrasts against the heavily grained finish of the centre portion. Still powered by the Seagull ST1901, it now looks even better, as the smaller case diameter better suits the movement size, visible via a display caseback. Expect a review on this model in the coming weeks! Price: starting from €540, available from the T+T Shop

Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H

As far as affordable mechanical chronographs go, the Intra-Matic Chrono H is about as good as it gets if you want a big box name on your wrist. Measuring in at 40mm in diameter and with a delectable cream dial, it’s powered by the ETA-made H-51 calibre that’s manually wound so you can get that proper old-school experience. The lengthy lugs and pump pushers are taken straight from the late 1960s, and the archival Hamilton logo on the dial is the icing on the cake. Price: US$2,145, available from the T+T Shop

Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue

The Black Bay Chrono was always good, but once Tudor decided to outfit it with a T-Fit Jubilee bracelet with the Pink model, it got that much better. Now, pink isn’t for everyone (though that watch’s availability may say otherwise), which makes the Black Bay Chrono Blue the near-perfect t-shirt and jeans watch. The Jubilee bracelet plays into its 1970s style inspiration that much more, and somehow reduces its bulkiness on-wrist too, despite it staying a fairly chunky 41mm x 14.4mm. Price: US$5,675

TAG Heuer Monaco Calibre 11

Even though the Monaco is a signature design of its time period, with multiple colourful variants in more exotic materials, you can hardly go wrong with the Calibre 11, taking inspiration directly from the 1970s original. The squared-off sub-dials and perforated leather strap are all signature elements, and the pusher layout is the way it should be, in my humble opinion. Even though the base module is no longer a Buren micro-rotor calibre, the Sellita/Dubois Dépraz movement keeps some of the charm of the original. Price: US$8,100

Omega Speedmaster ’57

Whether it’s its revolutionary design or its space-dwelling provenance, the Omega Speedmaster is among the most iconic watches around. The Professional is certainly the mainstay of the collection, but Omega went back to its 1950s roots with the Speedmaster ’57 collection, though played on the vintage-inspired theme with a few sultry colours. You can’t go wrong with any of them, and the 40.5mm x 13.4mm case is also a tad smaller than the Moonwatch, fitting of its sleeker design. Peering through the caseback, though unfortunately mostly obscured by an arabesque-striped plate, is the METAS-certified Calibre 9906. Price: US$9,500

Zenith Pilot Big Date Flyback in ceramic

Zenith dramatically changed up their Pilot model a few years ago. Gone are the hulking cases and onion crowns, replaced by a much sleeker, more modern proposition. The Pilot Big Date Flyback uses a high-frequency El Primero 3652 calibre, technically making this a tri-compax (okay I’ll stop), but what’s especially cool is the black ceramic variant. Though it’s not styled as one of the two traditional pilot watch types, the stealthy aesthetic works wonders, also helping reduce the visual bulk due to its large 42.5mm diameter. Price: US$13,900

Vacheron Constantin Historiques Cornes de Vache 1955

There are many ways in which I could describe Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques Cornes de Vache, but the easiest might be – it’s absolutely stunning. It’d be hard to mess up this 1955-inspired design considering the original is such a beaut, but VC has done a great job reinterpreting it for the modern market. It’s especially beautiful in pink gold, as the curves of the lugs are especially prominent, and the Lemania-based chronograph calibre harks back to the heyday of the legendary chronograph maker. Price: US$64,000

Petermann Bédat Split-Seconds Chronograph

Yes, there is quite a gap regarding the market positioning of the Petermann Bédat even when compared to the Cornes de Vache, but I couldn’t not include it in this round-up. The Split Seconds Chronograph is finished in an already recognisable Petermann Bédat manner, notably in the unique arrow-tailed ends of bridges. There are similarities in the gear train between this and the duo’s first piece, the Deadbeat Seconds, meaning there is a degree of Valjoux 78/90 inspiration in its design. Unusually, the split-seconds mechanism is positioned dial-side, which naturally meant that Petermann Bédat had to go with a semi-skeletonised vibe that shows off the rattrapante works. Price: CHF 243,000 (~US$288,000)