Everything is better in carbon fibre, even watches, so here’s our pick of the best
Tom AustinCarbon composite technology has come a long way since its initial creation in the 1960s. It was originally implemented in aerospace manufacturing once British engineers discovered its strength and lightweight potential. From there, it pushed out into motorsports and other industries that needed complex shapes and strength properties. Eventually, the material, which is created by interweaving strands of fibres and mixing them with high-strength resins, found itself creeping into the wristwatch world. A lot of it was only decorative, however, which often doesn’t age well. Fast forward to 2024, and watch brands are pushing the boundaries of what’s possible with this intriguing material, utilising new forging techniques to create almost impossible case designs, and now making full structures in carbon fibre, all of which are absolutely unique thanks to the fascinating way this material is crafted. Here is our pick of the best carbon fibre watches you can buy.
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 40mm Carbon
There’s a saying in the automotive world that carbon fibre makes everything better, and often, the same theory can be applied to watches, too. The PRX is one of those watches that became an instant hit when it was unveiled back in 2021. It was a perfectly timed throwback to a 1970s design, which hit every design trend nail bang on the head. A 40mm, shiny integrated bracelet sports watch, with a waffle dial and automatic Swiss movement, which looked great with a suit or t-shirt and jeans, for a price that didn’t consist of 5 figures – what’s not to love?
Now, in 2024, the PRX has returned, flicking on dark mode with a stealthy forged carbon fibre case and dial. And just like that, they went and made the already cool PRX even hotter. In almost every way, the carbon PRX is the same as the variations in stainless steel. That is, aside from a small mark on the movement for the keen-eyed among us, “Si” – denotes the upgrade to a silicon hairspring. So not only is the carbon version cooler than before, but it’s even more accurate and resistant to magnetism. Price: US$995
Victorinox I.N.O.X. Carbon Mechanical
To most people who think Swiss, they think chocolate, cheese, mountains perhaps, and of course, Swiss army knives, and one brand comes to mind more than any for that, and that’s Victorinox. However to us watch aficionados, Victorinox also makes some pretty awesome watches too. Their stand-out model is the I.N.O.X. a watch so tough, that upon its launch, it had survived being frozen in ice, burned at 1200ºC and even ran over with a 64-tonne tank. So it makes sense, that if they can bundle all that cool stuff into a carbon-fibre variation, that it has to make this list.
The Victorinox I.N.O.X. Carbon Mechanical features a Sellita SW200-1 movement with a 38-hour power reserve, fitted inside a space-grade carbon composite case. Waterproof to 200 meters thanks to a titanium caseback, it’s one of the toughest watches you can buy for its price point, and weighing in at only 102 grams, it’s incredibly light on the wrist, as you’d expect. Price: US$1,300.
Bamford B347 Carbon
Bamford is well known for their affinity with retro chronographs, and the B347 is no different. A perfect blend of nostalgic racer style and cutting-edge materials, the B347 is introduced with a 41.5mm forged carbon fibre and a classic reverse panda dial. The look is unique, reminiscent of vintage Heuer, but produced in a wide array of awesome colour combinations and styles which Bamford is well-known for. This monopusher chronograph features the Sellita SW510 movement, with a single pusher at 2 o’clock, and is presented with a sleek rubber strap, of course also available in every colour you can think of. Bamford’s approach is simple – take a heritage-style chronograph and wrap it in some hi-tech components, and you’ve got yourself one very sexy racing watch. Price: £2,500.
Doxa SUB 300 Carbon Whitepearl
Back in the ’60s, when the world’s best watchmakers were racing to be the first to be on the Moon, Doxa was busy looking somewhere a little different. Working closely with French naval officer and ocean explorer Jacques Cousteau, Doxa developed their dive watches to new standards, and helped push the limits of the unknown at that time, deep underwater. The Doxa SUB 300 was the first watch of its kind – the first commercially available watch with a helium escape valve, resulting in it withstanding deeper dives.
In 2021, Doxa took this one step further, with the Doxa SUB 300 Carbon. The case is identical in shape and proportion to the steel version, at 42.5mm in diameter and 13.4mm thick, however in forged carbon fibre, the watch is several times lighter than its steel sibling, and with the titanium inner chamber, is equally capable of its dive rating of 300 meters. It’s a perfect case of introducing modern materials while remaining true to its origins. Coincidentally, you can find it in the Time+Tide Shop. Price: US$4,090.
Norqain Wild ONE 42mm Khaki
Looking at sports watches like the Norqain Wild One, you have to wonder, why on earth are most “sports” watches made from heavy stainless steel? We’re in 2024, arguably the greatest period of time for technical development and ingenuity, and yet, brands still insist that ye olde way of making watch cases is still the way to go. Well, not Norqain, that’s for sure. The Norqain Wild One’s case is made from 25 parts with 14 individual toolings, creating a complex carbon fibre “NORTEQ” composite case with all the robustness anyone could ever ask for.
Six times lighter than steel, and 3.5 times lighter than titanium, the Wild One was designed in collaboration with none other than prolific wristwatch brand magician and marketing extraordinaire Jean-Claude Biver. Norqain and Biver worked closely together to develop a sports watch with a unique case design, which was ultra-robust, lightweight, and still looked the business. The Norqain Wild One 42mm was the result, and we’ve picked the Khaki for that all-round, explorer-like appeal. Price: US$5,290.
TAG Heuer Monza Flyback Chronometer
TAG Heuer has had a challenging few years behind it, with a recent resurgence thanks to a tasteful revisit of its historical icons. The Monza is now back, and it’s been given an ultra-modern upgrade. Introduced in 1976, it gave a then-modern take on Heuer racing chronographs of old, experimenting with a new case design which today has become an icon in itself for TAG Heuer.
The Monza Flyback Chronometer and its forged carbon case take that ’70s DNA, injecting 21st century design features and some pretty extreme ones, at that. The dial is skeletonised, displaying elements of the Calibre Heuer 02 Flyback movement under striking blue sapphire sub-dials and red hands. The cushion case is carved from forged carbon fibre and finished with grade 5 titanium chronograph pushers. This watch is a statement from TAG Heuer, showing everyone not to forget where they came from, but also where they are going. Price: US$14,250.
IWC Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63
Again with the car references, but we have to do it. IWC’s relationship with Mercedes Benz is more than skin-deep, with a few special editions making it into the collection, however the design of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch AMG G 63 has actually been inspired by the look of the car. Yes, if you look closely, the textured dial is inspired by the grilles and air intakes of the Merc 4×4, and the subdial rings are even enhanced to mimic the headlights of the car, too.
It’s not just about the looks for this watch however, this massive 46.5mm watch has been constructed from ultra-strong Ceramic Matrix Composite (CMC), developed in collaboration with the German Aerospace Center (DLC) and the first time that IWC have produced a watch in the material. It’s slightly different from normal carbon, in that it is embedded with a ceramic matrix rather than a polymer, making it ultra-strong and ultra scratch resistant. As far as watches inspired by cars go, this one’s fairly understated given its wrist presence, but of course, it’s an IWC Big Pilot’s watch, it just wouldn’t be right if it was smaller. Price: US$42,200.
Bulgari Octo Finissimo Minute Repeater Carbon
Most carbon fibre watches tend to be the exact equivalent of their robust stainless steel stablemates, and as such, could be perceived as being a bit boring – a form over function type of thing. Bulgari seldom stick to the rules others follow. Now, we know that Bulgari are renowned for their ultra-thin designs, and you’d be forgiven for thinking that kind of behaviour wasn’t translatable to carbon fibre, but don’t forget, they don’t follow the rules.
Bulgari have produced a carbon fibre watch, no more than 6.85mm thick – the thickness of about 7 credit cards – and remarkably, managed to squeeze in an incredible minute repeater movement with 42 hours of power reserve. This sits underneath a cut-out forged carbon dial, with the case’s layered design lending itself perfectly to this material. It wouldn’t look out of place on the wrist of Christopher Nolan’s Batman, that’s for sure. Price: CHF 219,000.
Richard Mille RM27-05
We can’t have a carbon fibre list without the brand that probably pushes the material to its limits. It’s an awful cliché to say that a Richard Mille is like a supercar for your wrist, but in all honesty, it’s probably as close as you’re going to get. And that’s not just because of the wallet-frying price tag, either, the common comparison is striking, with most modern supercars being made entirely with ultra-complex carbon fibre monocoque structures these days, this is something that Richard Mille also applies to its watches.
Carbon fibre watches have many benefits, some are fairly superficial, but certainly lightness is definitely a large plus point, and the RM27-05 delivers here big time. Weighing in at only 11.5 grams, it makes it the lightest mechanical tourbillon watch in the world, utilising carbon not only in the case, but even in the incredible movement – resulting in that alone weighing just 3.79 grams. It’s a tough watch to find, too, with only 80 in production, and at least one of them on the wrist of 22-time Grand Slam winner Rafa Nadal. Price: US$1,150,000.