The 5 best anti-magnetic watches that’ll attract all the right attention
Jamie WeissMaybe it’s because my dad worked in IT and he was anal about these things, but I remember growing up being told constantly that I needed to be very careful with magnets around computers. These days, with most computers using solid-state drives or flash memory, you don’t need to stress as much – but you absolutely should stress about subjecting your mechanical watch to magnetic fields. Magnetic fields generated by computers, phones, loudspeakers, medical equipment or airport security can all potentially magnetise your watch – and if you’re a professional such as a pilot or engineer, you’re likely to encounter even more intense magnetic fields during your day-to-day that can magnetise your watch and drastically affect its accuracy.
These days, thanks to the widespread use of materials such as silicon, Nivarox and Glucydur in modern watch movements, even affordable modern mechanical watches are relatively anti-magnetic – making some of the purpose-built anti-magnetic watches of years gone by somewhat of an anachronism. But then again, some of the best things in watches are anachronistic. With that in mind, this list of the best anti-magnetic watches contains both impressively anti-magnetic timepieces as well as models originally designed as specific anti-magnetic tools that have been somewhat outmoded (but are still very cool).
Tissot Gentleman Powermatic 80 Silicium
You could arguably get away with putting any watch using the Swatch Group’s prolific Powermatic 80 movement on this list, as thanks to its use of ARCAP (an alloy of copper, nickel and zinc) and plastic components, it has inherently above-average anti-magnetism. However, there are many different versions of the Powermatic 80: this Tissot Gentleman uses a more premium version of this movement which features a silicon hairspring. This makes it more anti-magnetic and more accurate than other Tissot Gentlemen without a silicon hairspring. It also happens to be a very handsome “go anywhere, do anything” watch that comes in a variety of dial colours, including this understated green number. Price: US$932, available from the Time+Tide Shop
Sinn EZM 3
Germany’s Sinn, well-known for its tool watches, offers a dedicated “Magnetic Field Protection” line of timepieces with magnetically soft inner cases, Nivarox balance springs and are rated up to 80,000 A/m (about 1,000 Gauss). Perhaps the most interesting of these watches is the EZM 3 dive watch, which features a case filled with inert argon gas and a drying capsule to eliminate humidity, and is water-resistant to 500 metres. A bead-blasted steel exterior and left-handed crown add to its mil-spec appeal. Price: US$1,900
Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M
Much like the Tissot included above, you could rightfully include any Omega model that boasts Master Chronometer certification, as part of the process for METAS certification (and one of the big differentiating factors it has over COSC certification) is that a Master Chronometer must be able to withstand up to 15,000 Gauss, which is approximately the strength of an MRI scan. The Omega Railmaster is perhaps Omega’s most famous anti-magnetic watch, but it’s recently been discontinued. The Aqua Terra is probably the next closest thing in Omega’s current range – but it’s no consolation prize, with a lovely black lacquer dial and Co-Axial movement. Price: US$6,600
Rolex Milgauss
Okay, I know this is technically discontinued as well, but I couldn’t make a guide about anti-magnetic watches without the Milgauss. First introduced in 1956 (a year after the IWC Ingenieur), the Rolex Milgauss is perhaps the most famous anti-magnetic watch on the market. Originally advertised as “designed to meet the demands of the scientific community working around electromagnetic fields” and famously worn by scientists at CERN, it features a double caseback for magnetic shielding. Its most recent incarnation, the ref. 116400GV, has another two emblematic features that help it stand apart from other Rolexes: a lightning bolt-shaped seconds hand and a green sapphire crystal. Price: US$9,300.
IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40
First released in 1955, the IWC Ingenieur (as its name implies) was specifically designed for engineers and featured anti-magnetic protection rated to 80,000 A/m courtesy of a soft iron inner cage. It was a game-changing watch, but the most famous Ingenieur, the SL “Jumbo” ref. 1832 Gérald Genta, hit the market in 1976 – making it a contemporary of other Genta-designed integrated bracelet watches like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. The Ingenieur’s latest incarnation, the Automatic 40, features a design inspired by the ref. 1832 but features modern flourishes such as a more defined dial texture, crown guards, a curvier case with better articulation for the bracelet’s first links, as well as a titanium-cased version. Price: US$11,700 (stainless steel), US$14,600 (titanium)
T+T Timeless Pick: a zap from the past
As I’ve touched on in this article, some of the most famous anti-magnetic watches have been discontinued – perhaps a reflection of how accessible anti-magnetic technologies have become in watchmaking. But let’s be real: in the same way that most of us don’t dive with our dive watches or time races with our chronographs, many people who wear anti-magnetic watches do it for the vibe rather than for utility. In that sense, why not opt for a vintage anti-magnetic watch – many of which are more anti-magnetic than their modern counterparts? Read Borna’s great guide to some of the most pioneering anti-magnetic watches here.