10 of the best watches putting the macro lens on the micro-rotor

Borna Bošnjak

The most common way of breaking down energy generation in a mechanical watch is to split them between automatics and manual-winding watches. While the latter is pretty self-explanatory, in that the wearer must wind the watch themselves, an automatic watch can take on a few forms. There are entirely novel methods of generating energy from movement, resulting in inventions like the Hublot MP-10 or Moritz Grossmann Hamatic. The micro-rotor is one of those, employing a small oscillating weight that lays in line with the bridges of the movement to enable slimmer, automatically winding watches. It’s an invention that never really caught on, and while progression mostly went the way of overall slimmer movements, micro-rotors still have a cult following for their unique look and rarity, and we’ve collated some of the best.

Baltic MR

If you thought micro-rotors are kind of a signature of high-end pieces, you’d only be half-right. With affordable Swiss micro-rotor development stalling in the 1980s with the Ronda 2538 Harley, it meant Baltic had to look elsewhere to introduce its mid-century-inspired MR01. Though its latest update, the MR Roulette, ditched the Breguet numerals for a sector-like dial, the Chinese-made Hangzhou 5000A stayed. While some had doubts in its initial departure to watches offered outside of the AliExpress marketplace, it’s proven a reliable enough performer, and it looks the part at the price point. Price: €545 (~US$600) from the T+T Shop

Yema Superman Slim CMM.20

Yema has been an unexpected source of movement development in recent years, even more so with the introduction of its own micro-rotor Calibre Manufacture Morteau 20. Developed by Olivier Mory and with some parts manufactured by Yema, it’s made the brand’s signature diver all the more compelling, as the Superman Slim retains the 300-metre water resistance while being under 12mm thick. It might not be the most highly decorated movement around, but at this price, you’re buying the novelty and movement development. Price: US$2,490

Horage Supersede Date

Speaking of in-house development and transparency – Horage has been championing those qualities since the brand’s inception. Backed by a history of movement development for other brands through THE Plus, Horage has been branching out into producing watches under its own name for 15 years. The Horage Supersede Date is one of the more affordable options in the brand’s catalogue, outfitted with the K2 micro-rotor movement, with a GMT-like jumping hour hand and 72 hours of power reserve, cased in a 904L steel case. If you wanted a watch that is as Swiss as possible, this is as close as it gets. Price: CHF 4,900 (~US$5,500)

Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green

We always order these lists in a price ascending order, and seeing a Chopard L.U.C model this early in the write-up can only mean two things. It’s either a sign that micro-rotors indeed are reserved for the high-end stuff, or that this Chopard is surprisingly affordable – and both happen to be true. Coming in at 40mm in diameter, the Chopard L.U.C XPS Forest Green is on the larger size for a dress watch in 2024, but its Lucent Steel case stays wonderfully thin at just 7.2mm. That’s of course thanks to the L.U.C 96.12-L, an in-house, micro-rotor movement equipped with two barrels and COSC certification, measuring in at only 3.3mm in height. It’s difficult to call anything demanding a five-figure asking price a value proposition, but this Chopard certainly punches above its weight. Price: US$11,800

Bulgari Octo Finissimo

The very name of the movement tech alludes to a smaller rotor, but the micro-rotor of the Octo Finissimo Automatic truly does look micro in that wide-open display caseback. There’s not much I can say about this watch that hasn’t been said in some form already, including the many thinness records held by Octo Finissimo variants, or the fact that it gave Bulgari legitimacy as more than just a fashion brand making watches. Despite all the ultra-complex or exotic case models, the basic three-handed Octo Finissimo still reigns supreme for me. Price: US$13,500

Czapek Promenade

I’m not usually one to act hipstery, but I’ve got to say that I’ve been a singer of Czapek praises before it was cool. My love for the brand even in its pre-Antarctique era aside, the success of the integrated-bracelet model thankfully didn’t turn Czapek into a one-trick pony, and that was proved at this year’s Watches and Wonders with the Promenade. The now-sold-out Goutte d’Eau was the star with its stunning blue dial, but it kind of overshadowed the non-limited offering as well as the SXH5 movement which is in my opinion one of the best-looking micro-rotors currently on the market. The off-centre sub-seconds on the sunray guilloché dials and 38mm case are properly decent, too. Price: CHF 17,350 (~US$19,500)

Louis Vuitton Tambour

Similarly to what the Octo Finissimo did for Bulgari, Louis Vuitton scrapped its existing watch line-up and refreshed it with the new Tambour. Alongside LV’s push to revive high-end brands like Gérald Genta and Daniel Roth, its Fabrique du Temps workshop worked with Le Cercle des Horlogers to outfit the Tambour with a micro-rotor movement. The decoration of the LFT023 reflects what Louis Vuitton is hoping the Tambour will become – a bastion of the brand’s watchmaking efforts that are to come. Price: €19,000 (~US$20,700)

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Golden Siena

Knowing that there are still brands out there that listen and action customer feedback is quite reassuring, and I can only imagine it’s the reason for the Tonda PF Golden Siena’s existence. For the longest time, Parmigiani Fleurier’s Tonda PF sported a date window cut-out at 6 o’clock, and while it was usually colour-matched and not overly intrusive, this no-date variant proves that omitting it was the right call. The in-house micro-rotor movement is a few years old now, but it’s no less pretty, with a guilloché-engraved oscillating weight and plenty of perlage work on the baseplate. Price: CHF 23,500 (~US$26,300)

Laurent Ferrier Classic Micro-Rotor

You know how I said the Czapek SXH5 is one of the best-looking micro-rotor movements on the market? That’s mostly because Laurent Ferrier exists, and I can never quite decide between the two. Being a decent racing driver and Patek Philippe creative director, these days, Laurent Ferrier produces especially stunning micro-rotors. The movement has such wonderful depth, the highlight being the polished bridge suspending the oscillating weight, and the reverse isn’t half-bad either – the Assegai hands being a personal favourite. Price: CHF 65,000 (~US$73,000)

Renaud Tixier Monday

While the other micro-rotor movements on this list all have their own merits, the Renaud Tixier Monday deserves a spot simply for pushing the technology forward, and looking to eradicate the main issues micro-rotor movements have faced. The RTVI2023 includes an oscillating weight with a central propeller that amplifies any movement by the large mass, ensuring optimal energy generation which is often a drawback of a micro-rotor. In an effort to not blather on, have a read of my more in-depth overview of the Monday, though that article in itself could be double the length. It’s not all that surprising though, given that the watch was created by one of the most exciting young watchmakers around in Tixier, and an industry legend like Renaud. Price: CHF 79,000 (~US$90,000)

T+T Timeless Pick: Universal Genève Polerouter

I’m sure you knew this one was coming. The timeless pick of this list could’ve ever only been one watch, and not just because I’m writing it. The Universal Genève Polerouter has become a lot more appreciated by the wider collecting community, but its story of being Genta’s first-ever design as well as championing micro-rotor technology will never not be intriguing. It helps that it’s also one of the most beautiful watches ever made – at least in my opinion. I’m sure you wouldn’t be surprised learning I’m obsessed with them. Price: ~US$1,500+