14 of the best panda dial chronographs for all your high-contrast chronograph needs
Zach BlassFrom iconic racing watches to auction darlings, panda dial chronographs hold a special place in the hearts of collectors all over the world. It is little wonder most brands have their own interpretation of the much-loved design. The panda dial was popularised in the 1960s and 1970s, largely thanks to mainstream brands such as Rolex, Omega, and Heuer beginning to incorporate it into their designs. They then became associated with motorsport for their legibility and sporty aesthetics. The contrasting black sub-dials against the light background made it easier for drivers to read elapsed time and measure speed. Unlike the animal, the watchmaking panda is far from endangered. Before we get into fourteen of the best panda dial chronographs, some clarification. Some panda purists only consider white dials with three contrasting black counters true pandas, but I have included a wider colour gamut, as well as chronographs with either two or three counters.
Citizen Zenshin Chrono
At the entry and affordable side of the equation, we often turn to Japanese watches. What can I say? Brands like Citizen know how to offer killer, value-driven watches. The Zenshin Chrono is a prime example. While it may be beneath quartz snobs, the intriguing Eco-Drive twist offers solar power, and it’s undeniable that a titanium wristwatch is seldom seen below US$1,000. The Zenshin Chrono, 42.5mm in diameter and 100 metres water-resistant, uses Citizen’s proprietary Super Titanium for the case and integrated bracelet. Offered in a variety of colours, the above Zenshin Chrono will particularly stand out with its textured and Tiffany blue-like dial that is contrasted with black counters. Price: US$625
Seiko Speedtimer SSC911
Of course Seiko has its own affordable answer for panda dial-hungry watch buyers. The Seiko Speedtimer SSC911, with its V192 movement, is also solar-driven. On a full charge, left out of the light, the watch has an autonomy of six months, with an accuracy range within fifteen seconds per month. The case is more compact across the wrist than its 41.4mm diameter would suggest at just 45.9mm lug-to-lug. Should the more traditional white dial of the SSC911 be too basic for your liking, there are 12 more configurations you can explore – all with dial-contrasting registers. Price: US$700
Baltic Tricompax Reverse Panda
A brand known to distinctly reinterpret cues of the past, Baltic naturally caught the eyes of collectors with its panda-dialled variants of the Tricompax. Unusually for me, I actually prefer the Reverse Panda model. Its semi-gloss black dial is contrasted with a stone white outer minutes track and chronograph counters. Its 50-metre water-resistant steel case has excellent modern proportions, measuring 39.5mm in diameter, 13.5mm thick including its vintage-simulating double domed sapphire crystal, and 47mm lug-to-lug. Inside, the Tricompax Reverse Panda is powered by a manually wound 63-hour Sellita SW510-M that offers reliable and robust performance – with an endurance beyond the 38 or 42 hours too often seen at this price tier. Price: €1,645 (~US$1,830), available from the Time+Tide Shop
Alpina Alpiner Extreme Chronograph Automatic
Chronographs are not typically associated with swimming, as typically speaking, engaging the pushers underwater can prove disastrous for the watch. The Alpina Alpiner Extreme Chronograph Automatic is up to the task with a 200-metre depth rating. Designed with an on-trend integrated bracelet, the Alpiner Extreme Chronograph Automatic’s stainless steel case measures 41mm in diameter and 11.5mm thick, with a compact lug-t0-lug span. Its textured silver dial is handsomely contrasted with the three black chronograph counters. Some may despise a 4:30-positioned date window, but it blends well into the silver dial tonally speaking. Exhibited inside is the Sellita SW510-based AL-730 chronograph calibre. Price: US$3,295
Bulgari Aluminium Watch Chronograph
A 42-hour power reserve chronograph at this price level is probably less than desired for some, but the appeal of the Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph lies in its unmistakable style and lightweight case. Many wearers of the Bulgari Aluminum, such as our own Andrew McUtchen, often note how comfortable its rubber bracelet (with its metal inserts) is on the wrist – and comfort is paramount for a summer watch. With its 100-metre depth rating, the Aluminium Chronograph, 41mm in diameter and 11mm thick, is an excellent summer watch that has a fashionable form while offering solid functionality. Price: US$4,800
Tudor Black Bay Chrono Blue
The Tudor Black Bay Chrono has become an absolute fan-favourite since its introduction and throughout its evolutions. There are now several options to explore, but in the wake of the internet-breaking Black Bay Chrono Pink, we now have a new Black Bay Chrono Blue Boutique Edition, for those perhaps less born to dare. Blue is as well-established a dial colour as any, versatile and safe without being plain. For those less familiar, this stainless steel Black Bay Chrono Blue is available on a Jubilee bracelet that includes T-Fit in its clasp. Its 200-metre water-resistant case, with a screw-down crown and screw-down pushers, offers peace of mind while swimming, and measures 41mm in diameter, 14.2mm thick, and 49.9mm lug-to-lug. Inside you have a COSC-certified, automatic vertical clutch, column-wheel chronograph movement with 70 hours of power reserve. Price: US$5,675
Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Copper
Blending two fan-favourite vintage dial aesthetics, Breitling recently paired its salmon-like copper with three contrasting black chronograph counters in the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43. As its name suggests, its case is 43mm in diameter, clocking in at 13.69mm thick and a surprising 49.07mm lug-to-lug. Inside you have a Breitling B01 manufacture automatic chronograph calibre with 70 hours of power reserve. The Navitimer is irrefutably an iconic model, and given this salmon-panda twist, it’s that much more alluring in the modern era. Price: US$9,550
Zenith Chronomaster Sport
We’ve now crossed the US$10,000 threshold. Naturally, a panda-dialled chronograph watch that, upon its release, was immediately identified as a pound-for-pound alternative to the Rolex Daytona (perhaps even superior to it) is a must-include on this list. The Zenith Chronomaster Sport flexes the brand’s mastery of high-beat movements with its 60-hour, automatic El Primero 3600 that can track elapsed time down to a tenth of a second. Rather than make a full revolution once every 60 seconds, the Chronomaster Sport’s central chronograph hand races around the dial once every ten seconds – hence the ten-second graduation of its fully ceramic bezel. The 100-metre water-resistant stainless steel case comfortably measures 41mm in diameter, 13.8mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. Price: US$11,300
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph
Another watch commonly touted as an alternative to mainstream icons, Girard-Perregaux’s pre-Nautilus and post-Royal Oak Laureato has been an if-you-know-you-know design since its inception in 1975. In the decades since the line has expanded in its usage of materials and levels of complication, the Laureato Chronograph, in one such configuration, offers a handsome panda dial within its 42mm 904L stainless steel case. The case and integrated bracelet present a higher level of finish, with a rich horizontal brush balanced with polished accents. Inside you have an in-house and finely decorated GP03300 chronograph movement with 46 hours of power reserve. Price: US$18,600
Piaget Polo Chronograph G0A49024
The modern Piaget Polo has also often been compared to the Patek Philippe Nautilus, though with its cushion-within-a-circle case, is actually very distinct the closer you inspect it. Wrist-friendly at 42mm in diameter, 11.2mm thick, and 46.7mm lug-to-lug, the 100-metre water-resistant steel watch is offered on a bracelet. However, Piaget has begun to explore rubber straps for its watches, so if possible, I would try to find a compatible rubber strap. In a recent addition the line, Piaget has introduced its iridescent green into the Polo Chronograph collection with dial-contrasting counters in silver. Exhibited inside, the 50-hour automatic column-wheel chronograph calibre 1160P is handsomely finished. The base calibre design is also used by brands such as Cartier and Jaeger-LeCoultre. Price: US$20,400 (on bracelet)
TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph CBS2240.FC8319
You probably expected to see the Glassbox-generation TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph in steel with a reverse panda dial, but, to be honest, I personally don’t love the 12 o’clock-positioned date. This solid gold Carrera Chronograph is tied for most handsome within the range, tied with the steel Skipper in my book. The brushed gold-tone dial is stunning in the metal, and its dial-contrasting black counters give this modern model a vintage feel that evokes the Carrera watches gifted by Jack Heuer to various racing champions. For a quick spec-check, its 118K 3N gold case is 39mm in diameter and 13.9mm thick, and the watch is powered by an in-house, automatic TH20-00 movement with 80 hours of power reserve. Price: US$21,500 (also available in steel with a reverse panda black/grey dial – US$6,450)
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph
With Guido Terreni at the helm, Parmigiani Fleurier’s rock-solid movement engineering has never been more handsomely packaged. With Terreni’s keen eye, the aesthetic of Parmigiani’s Tonda PF was massively refined and led to a more cohesive range. With the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, there are many panda dials to explore. My personal favourite is this silver with pale icy blue accents the brand refers to as “Arctic Grey”. As a Tonda PF Sport model, the 100-metre water-resistant stainless steel case uses a fluted steel bezel rather than a platinum one, measuring in at 42mm in diameter and a sporty-slender 12.9mm. The relative slenderness is made possible through its usage of the in-house automatic PF070 which is not only superbly decorated and exhibited, but also notably beats at 5Hz and is COSC-certified. Price: US$30,000
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph
A watch that needs little to no introduction, at least for watch geeks, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph is the first and only Holy Trinity watch to grace this buying guide. The Overseas Chronograph also notably boasts the allure of an integrated bracelet design with additional bundled straps (a leather and rubber strap) that can all be easily swapped between with a quick-release system that requires no tools. With its column-wheel chronograph complication, it is a tad larger than the time-and-date model – its case measures 42.5mm in diameter and 12.67mm thick. Exhibited inside is Vacheron’s automatic, in-house 54-hour calibre 5200 that is exceptionally finished and decorated to the Hallmark of Geneva standard. Price: US$32,500
A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Up/Down
Widely considered to house one of the finest chronograph calibres ever designed, it’s watches like this Datograph Up/Down that has many watch enthusiasts holding German watchmaker A. Lange & Söhne in equal or higher regard to the established Holy Trinity watchmakers. From the front, the Datograph is known for its large double-aperture, operatic-inspired big date window and, as you would expect from an Up/Down, its German language Ab/Auf power reserve indicator.
While it does have a panda dial, it’s ultimately its in-house L951.6 movement you will want to stare at and explore for infinity. A horological city comprised of 451 components, the 60-hour flyback chronograph’s German silver bridges are impeccably finished with gorgeous striping, anglage, black polishing, hand-engraving and… Wait, what was I saying? Price: On request
Time+Tide Timeless pick: Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman”
The panda G.O.A.T. Nuff’ said. This legendary Rolex Daytona “Paul Newman” ref. 6239 is largely why collectors have become so hyper-focused on panda dials. At least with greater cognisance, there are plenty of grail-level vintage panda dial chronographs beyond Rolex’s catalogue, but in the wake of Newman’s own exotic dial Daytona selling at Phillips for massive money, panda dials became known by the mainstream.