An exclusive look at two military-issued Tudors for the French special forces

Time+Tide

Few timepieces are as coveted as limited-edition watches issued to elite military and security units. When Tudor joined forces with France’s top security agencies, the result was nothing short of horological magic. In these two separate collaborations, Tudor has created ultra-rare editions of its iconic Black Bay 58, available exclusively to members of France’s domestic intelligence service (DGSI) and special operations command (COS) – showing that the brand doesn’t just partner with sports teams and athletes.

Consistent with the agencies’ discretion, both pieces feature subtle yet thoughtful details that set them apart for anyone in the know. While Tudor has never officially communicated specifics about these models, Time+Tide has the unique opportunity to reveal them after getting hands-on with these hard-to-come-by timepieces. We were caught by surprise when the opportunity to feature them came up, and are extremely grateful that we were able to do so. While Tudor has publicly teamed up with armed forces in the past, it makes these secretive collaborations all the more alluring.

A prestigious tribute to France’s elite forces

By producing these extremely limited Tudor editions for the DGSI and COS, Tudor upholds its tradition of creating exclusive pieces for select military and security units. These timepieces celebrate the dedication and professionalism of the men and women serving in these elite organisations in a fitting manner. The extreme rarity of these watches is further enhanced by the secretive nature of the agencies they represent. As both the DGSI and COS operate largely in the shadows, with many of their actions classified and their personnel’s identities protected, these timepieces offer a rare glimpse into the world of high-stakes national security operations.

For the select few who own them, these watches represent lifetime achievements and serve as constant reminders of their commitment to national security and the elite status of their organisations. The subtle customisations – agency emblems, national colours, and personalised engravings – create deeply significant timepieces that remain discreet enough for everyday wear.

Tudor Black Bay 58 DGSI

The DGSI (Direction Générale de la Sécurité Intérieure), France’s primary domestic intelligence service, traces its lineage back to 1944 and is France’s equivalent of the United States’ FBI. Operating under the Ministry of the Interior, this agency focuses on counter-terrorism, economic security, cyber defence, and combating espionage and foreign interference. As you can imagine they will be very busy this summer with the Olympics taking place. With approximately 5,000 agents nationwide, the DGSI combines analytical and operational capacities. While some DGSI actions are public, most remain classified due to their sensitive nature. Only those who carry out these missions can fully appreciate their impact.

Created in 2020 and delivered in 2021, the Tudor Black Bay 58 DGSI is a masterpiece of subtlety and exclusivity. Never offered for public sale, this watch could only be acquired by DGSI personnel. At first glance, the BB58 DGSI appears nearly indistinguishable from the regular production model. However, closer inspection reveals several distinctive features.

On the dial, the text is rendered entirely in French, “CHRONOMETRE OFFIVIELLEMENT CERTIFIE” and the depth rating forgoes the imperial measurement, reading only the metric “200m” given that is the only measuring system used in France. On the caseback, you can see the DGSI emblem engraved along with the year of production. There was also the option to have a personalised 15-character inscription below the emblem, chosen by the intended recipient.

The watch houses the Manufacture COSC-certified MT5602 calibre and was delivered with a riveted steel bracelet. Owners could optionally choose an extra NATO strap bearing the French Tricolore, though this came at an additional cost, making these even rarer. While the exact production number remains unknown, it’s estimated that fewer than 100 examples were produced. This makes the BB58 DGSI extremely rare even within the selective DGSI community, with less than 1 in 50 agents owning this prized timepiece.

Tudor Black Bay 58 COS

Established on June 24, 1992, the COS (Commandement des Opérations Spéciales) is France’s joint staff responsible for overseeing the special forces units of the French Army, Navy, and Air and Space Force. Operating under the orders of the Chief of Defence Staff and the direct authority of the President of the French Republic, the COS serves as the French equivalent of the USSOCOM or UKSF. Throughout its 30-year history, the COS has commanded over 1,000 special operations. The faces and names of the exceptional soldiers who carry them out remain unknown, as their work is kept secret. Adaptability, hardiness, determination, and team spirit are crucial qualities for those who intervene at any moment in every corner of the world to relentlessly accomplish their missions.

To commemorate the COS’s 30th anniversary in 2022, Tudor partnered with the unit to create a unique edition of the Black Bay 58. Like its DGSI counterpart, this exclusive timepiece was never made available for public sale.

At first glance, the watch may appear to be a standard Black Bay 58. However, upon closer inspection, the iconic blue dial reveals three lines of text printed in blue, white, and red – the colours of the French flag – making it truly distinctive and immediately recognisable to those in the know.

The back of the 39 mm steel case features the unit’s distinctive circled crossbow logo, the anniversary dates “1922-2022” as well as the owner’s military trigram and commando insignia (blacked out here at the owner’s discretion). The rest of the watch is exactly the same as the standard BB58.

Parting thoughts

In the world of horology, the Tudor Black Bay 58 DGSI and COS editions stand as some of the most exclusive and intriguing timepieces in circulation. While they may never be available to the general public, their very existence adds a fascinating chapter to Tudor’s story and underscores the brand’s connection to the world of elite security forces. For watch enthusiasts and collectors, the discovery of such pieces is akin to uncovering hidden treasures. They serve as reminders that in the world of fine watchmaking, there are still secrets to be discovered and stories to be told – stories of precision, dedication, and the unsung heroes who work tirelessly to keep their nation safe.