Seiko expands the popular 5 Sports GMT range with three stylish new looks
Jamie WeissThe Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style is one of Seiko’s most popular product lines – but it’s also been one of its most contentious among dyed-in-the-wool watch enthusiasts. Introduced by the brand in 2019 as the replacement for the discontinued SKX line of watches (which had been in production for a whopping 23 years), and known by some as simply the “5KX”, the SKX Sports Style featured the same aesthetics of the SKX at a lower price, but at the cost of true diver’s functionality thanks to a reduced water-resistance rating, rankling some collectors. However, one derivation of the 5KX that’s received near-universal praise is the GMT range first released in 2022. One of the most affordable and handsome mechanical GMT watches on the market, the 5 SKX Sports Style GMT collection has expanded in 2024 with three stylish new variants that will only broaden its appeal.
The case
As alluded to above, the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMTs (which I will refer to as simply the 5KX GMTs going forward) feature the same case design as the original SKX, as well as the time-and-date 5KX. It’s a familiar and inoffensive design, with no sharp edges and at a crown at 4 o’clock. It measures 42.5mm in diameter and 13.6mm thick: what’s particularly impressive about the 5KX GMT is that it’s only 0.2mm thicker than the normal 5KX, despite its complication. The crystal as well as the exhibition caseback are made from Hardlex, a proprietary mineral glass that’s been heat-treated to make it more scratch-resistant, and one commonly used for affordable Seiko timepieces.
These three new 5KX GMTs feature exactly the same cases as previous models, so there’s not much to write home about here – except for the two-tone ref. SSK036K, which features a gold PVD bezel. This makes it only the second two-tone 5KX model (the first being the 28mm SRE004K, which features a two-tone bracelet as well but a fixed bezel). Like the standard 5KX, the 5KX GMT has a water-resistance rating of 100 metres (half that of the SKX) and no screw-down crown, but unlike the normal 5KX, these GMT models have Hardlex bezel inserts rather than aluminium. Because they’re GMT bezels rather than diving bezels, they’re bidirectional rather than unidirectional, too.
The dials
The 5KX GMT – indeed, the entire SKX range past and present – has always nodded towards designs and colour combinations made famous by a certain Swiss watch brand with a crown-shaped logo. These three new 5KX GMTs are no exception. The ref. SSK033K combines a silver dial with a black/blue bicolour “Batman” bezel; the ref. SSK035K, with its green dial and black/green bezel could be described as Sprite or Kermit-esque; and the two-tone ref. SSK036K, with its gilt hands and indices plus a black dial and bezel, gives off a bit of a Rootbeer vibe.
All three of these colourways are versatile, fan-favourite picks – need I say more? All feature large Lumibrite-filled indices and hands; a date window at 3 o’clock (with a very familiar Cyclops lens to boot); and GMT scales on their chapter rings, meaning you can use these watches to track up to 3 different time zones. Nifty.
The bracelets
The SSK033K and SSK035K both come mounted on Seiko’s new-and-improved Jubilee-style steel bracelet, which is far more substantial than the jangly bracelets that used to come on the old SKXs. The SSK036K comes on a brown stitched leather strap, which suits its more vintage vibe but perhaps underscores the 5KX’s positioning as more of a generalist tool watch rather than a dedicated dive watch. This is the first strap of its kind to appear on an SKX Sports Style model: it’s totally serviceable but features a somewhat cheap-looking tan.
The movement
These three 5KX GMTs are powered by Seiko’s in-house calibre 4R34. The 4R range of movements are effectively Seiko-branded versions of the SII NH range of movements, which are utterly prolific in the microbrand space. The main difference is that 4R movements are always made in Japan, while NH movements are made in a variety of countries including Malaysia and Hong Kong. Anyway, the 4R34 is an extremely robust if somewhat unimpressive “caller” GMT movement that beats at 3Hz and has a 41-hour power reserve. While I wouldn’t say it’s one of the world’s most beautiful movements, these 5KX GMTs put it on display through their exhibition casebacks – which is still a novelty at this price point.
The verdict
Look, I don’t need to gild the lily here by going on too much about these three Seikos. They’re just new colourways of an existing watch, after all – but they’re three really great colourways for a really great watch. When people ask me for a recommendation for a cheap mechanical watch, I tell them to buy a 5KX GMT – it’s that simple. Adding some fan-favourite colourways to the range only makes that recommendation easier to make.
Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT collection pricing & availability
These three new additions to the Seiko 5 SKX Sports Style GMT collection are available now from Seiko retailers. Price: A$875 (SSK033K & SSK035K), A$850 (SSK036K)
| Brand | Seiko |
| Model | 5 SKX Sports Style GMT |
| Reference Number | SSK033K SSK035K SSK036K |
| Case Dimensions | 42.5mm (D) x 13.6mm (T) x 46mm (L2L) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel (SSK033K & SSK035K) Two-tone stainless steel with PVD gold (SSK036K) |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Hardlex front and back, Hardlex bezel insert |
| Dial | Matte silver, green, black |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Strap | Steel Jubilee-style bracelet, folding clasp (SSK033K & SSK035K) Brown leather strap (SSK036K) |
| Movement | Calibre 4R34, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 41 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | A$875 (SSK033K & SSK035K) A$850 (SSK036K) |