Three shades of Breguet – Classique, Type XX, Marine

Zach Blass

I have said it before, and I will say it again: Breguet is a brand known for its no-nonsense approach to creating true horological wonders for the wrist. But as much as I love Breguet being associated with tradition, being above the hype, and its founder being the greatest watchmaker of all time, I want to have a more casual look at the Breguet of today. Of course Breguet still makes timeless watches in the style of its founder, but there are new dynamics at play within the current collection as well. In fact, we are going to look at three models that showcase this spectrum: the Classique 5157, the Type XX 2067, and the Marine 5517.

Pure tradition – Breguet Classique 5157

The Classique 5157 is the embodiment of Breguet, a clear exhibitor of the unmistakable signs of the brand’s design. Since 1786, a signature of Breguet watches have been engine-turned dials – a meticulous, hand-guided process of guilloché decoration in patterns such as barleycorn, hobnailing, and cross weave. The 38mm Classique 5157’s large silvered dial, made of solid gold, is decorated with a clous de Paris pattern created by a rose engine. Looking to the outer perimeter, you’ll notice the brushed chapter ring, filled with Roman hour numerals and a dotted outer minutes track that hosts a second unmistakable sign. This is, naturally, the Breguet secret signature born in 1795 as a measure against counterfeiting.

The third unmistakable sign you’ll notice is found at 6 o’clock, a unique production number associated with the watch. Three more of these signs can be seen with the signature Breguet handset, the caseband fluting, and the lugs which are distinctly welded and precisely drilled to allow for a more secure screwed bar.

The precious-metal Classique 5157, powered by the automatic, 45-hour calibre 502.3 which notably allows the 30-metre water-resistant case to be just 5.4mm thick, is priced at A$35,400 or US$22,100 on a leather strap.

Brand	Breguet
Model	Classique
Reference	5157BR/11/9V6
Case Dimensions	38mm (D) x 5.4mm (T)
Case Material	18k rose gold
Water Resistance	30 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire front and back
Dial	Silver guilloché on solid gold blank
Strap	Brown leather strap, 18k rose gold pin buckle
Movement	502.3, in-house, automatic
Power Reserve	45 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes
Availability	Now
Price	US$22,100 A$35,400

 

Full-on sporty: Breguet Type XX ref. 2067

The Type XX ref. 2067 is representative of the opposite end of the spectrum, a truly sporty creation dedicated to Breguet’s history with aviation. This creation, unlike the Classique, does not overtly exhibit the aforementioned “unmistakable signs”. The caseband is not fluted, the dial is not engine-turned, nor are the straps affixed by spring bars. Here, Breguet lends its expertise towards creating a pilot’s watch that honours the model’s use as a true military watch for aviators.

Encased in steel, 42mm in diameter, 14.1mm thick, and 100 metres water-resistant, the Type XX sports a new automatic flyback chronograph movement with a high-beat, 5Hz rate, silicon balance spring and escapement for magnetic resistance, and 60 hours of power reserve. For a purely sporty Breguet, less traditional in aesthetic but still firmly rooted in heritage, the Type XX  priced at A$30,600 or US$19,100 on a strap or A$35,800 or US$22,300 on a bracelet, is the Breguet avenue for you.

Brand	Breguet
Model	Type XX
Reference	2067
Case Dimensions	42mm (D) x 14.1mm (T)
Case Material	Stainless steel
Water Resistance	100 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire crystal front and caseback
Dial	Black galvanic treatment
Bracelet	Stainless steel bracelet with micro-adjustable butterfly clasp Brown or black stitched calfskin buckle Green, grey or brown NATO fabric strap
Movement	728, in-house, high-beat automatic, column-wheel chronograph
Power Reserve	60 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, small seconds, date, flyback chronograph
Availability	Now
Price	US$19,100, A$30,600 (strap) US$22,300, A$35,800 (bracelet)

 

Sport meets tradition: Breguet Marine 5517/TI

The Marine 5517TI, in my view, embodies the middle of this spectrum. Its marine theme adds a sporty aura, but it is by no means a dive watch. What it is is a robust daily, land or sea, that does host elements of the unmistakable signs of Breguet. The dial, unlike on the Type XX, utilises Breguet hands – and they even have luminescent fillings within, befitting of a watch with a somewhat sporty edge. Adjacent to the Breguet branding at 12 o’clock is the single unique production number. And, depending on your preference, some models host hand sunburst-finished dials, while others have engine-turned central medallions with a wave pattern.

The Marine’s 100 metre water-resistant titanium case that’s 40mm in diameter and 11.5mm thick has the signature fluting, along with lugs that affix the strap or bracelet with a screw bar.

Inside and exhibited is the calibre 777A, equipped with a silicon balance spring and escapement and automatic winding, with a 55-hour power reserve. If you are looking for a Breguet with a more modern and sporty edge, but that’s still unmistakably a Breguet , the Marine is worth looking into. Prices start at US$19,400 in titanium.

Brand	Breguet
Model	Marine
Reference	5517TI/Y1/5ZU
Case Dimensions	40mm (D) x 11.5mm (T)
Case Material	Titanium
Water Resistance	100 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire front and back
Dial	Blue sunburst
Strap	Integrated rubber or leather strap Titanium bracelet with folding clasp
Movement	777A, in-house, automatic
Power Reserve	55 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date
Availability	Now
Price	Starting from US$19,400, A$31,100

 

Final thoughts

It’s easy to typecast Breguet as a brand that is strictly, yet wonderfully, rooted in tradition. But, these three models ultimately show the various shades of Breguet, and the different sides Breguet offers. Classic and thoroughly unmistakable in its Breguet signatures, sporty in a full tribute to aviation, or a bit of both – modern with hints of the historic.