The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is simple and shtick-free

Buffy Acacia

The resurrection of a vintage brand name and the release of a retro diver has been an unbeatable combination in the last decade or so. Guillaume Laidet, the re-founder of Vulcain has already tasted that same success with Nivada Grenchen, and it seems like the Skindiver Nautique has been a similar hit since its introduction in January 2023. During Watches and Wonders 2024, the Skindiver Nautique catalogue was expanded with another five references, mostly in gold PVD and bronze, but also a new steel reference with a bright orange dial. Between this new model and one of last year’s blue dials, we can see a cross-section of the Skindiver Nautique’s winning recipe, and why it doesn’t need any shticks.

The case

During the 1960s, at the height of skin diver popularity, the introduction of the modern wristwatch was still in living memory. As such, there were many design barriers that had yet to be broken. Bringing in colourful dials was a revolution in itself, and a 36mm watch might have been considered “jumbo”. Well, the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique opts for a middle ground between vintage accuracy and modern wrist presence with a 38mm diameter. Small wrists will also be glad of the compact 44.5mm lug-to-lug length, and the 12.2mm thickness is pretty impressive considering the 200 metres of water resistance and automatic movement.

The Skindiver Nautique isn’t exactly a vintage reissue in the sense that it’s a replica, but it does a great job of evoking some vintage Vulcain releases which did actually exist. The lugs are relatively thick but sharply angled, with thin polished bevels to reduce their visual weight. The vertically brushed finish reinforces the utilitarian look, but the lack of crown guards implies a kind of innocence which predates all-out sports watches. The only thing which really gives the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique away as a modern watch is the glossy ceramic bezel insert, helping to protect against scratches like the sapphire crystal.

The dial

Skipping ahead to the nitty-gritty, there is one particular detail which really pushes the vintage vibe on the dial. The printing below the centre pinion denotes the movement’s Incabloc shock resistance and 25-jewel count, which is something you find on a bunch of vintage watches. New watches typically swap this area of text out for model names, automatic designations, or water resistance ratings, but sticking to movement specifications is a fun move. Additionally, either side of the Swiss Made printing at 6 o’clock is the letter “L”, which stands for LumiNova. Many vintage watches used to place a “T” in this spot to denote the use of tritium in the luminous paint.

A lot of the original Vulcain skin divers were pretty wacky, but the Skindiver Nautique plays things a little safer. The dial uses a fairly minimal approach with a standard style of hour marker design and long, printed minute markers. The tone of the Super-LumiNova is either a crisp white or yellowed faux-aged effect, depending on your dial colour of choice. It’s matched by the baton hand set, whose long, rectangular shapes are slightly sloped for a defined centre-crease and increased reflectivity. Legibility is one of the most important aspects of a dive watch, and the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is certainly no less than adequate, but perhaps not exceptional.

The strap

Vulcain offers a dizzying array of leather straps on their site, but the two most popular options will surely be the highly unusual steel bracelet or the Tropic-style rubber strap. After all, leather isn’t really in the spirit of a dive watch. The bracelet screams ‘60s and ‘70s, with a mono-link design that’s somewhat of a precursor to industrial-style integrated bracelets. It continues the vertical brushing of the case and its slab-sided facets bring a little taste of the space age. The black Tropic-style rubber strap is a more ubiquitous and versatile choice if you don’t want too much character, otherwise the 20mm lug width affords plenty of aftermarket options such as NATO straps.

The movement

Hidden behind a solid caseback engraved with the slogan “sold the world over since 1858”, lies a tried-and-true ETA 2824. Even though its supply has been restricted over the last few years, it’s still the default choice for an entry-level, time-only Swiss movement. It’s had decades of trust built around it, with a 38-hour power reserve, a smooth 4Hz beat rate, and fairly affordable servicing costs. It’s got all of the creature comforts such as seconds-hacking and hand-winding capability, while the automatic winding should take care of everything as a daily wearer.

The verdict

Sometimes it’s hard to imagine that there are still collectors out there who need to buy a vintage-inspired diver, but I suppose there’s a reason why divers have been the most popular watch genre in recent years. The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is pretty much a textbook example of a solid Swiss dive watch, and it’s backed up by a respected brand name, a proven company leader, and great attention to detail. I do miss some of the unique characteristics which genuine vintage Vulcains had in the 1960s, but the unique steel bracelet is a nice touch. Perhaps in the current climate when every brand seems to have a gimmick, keeping it simple is the way to stand out.

Vulcain Skindiver Nautique pricing and availability

The Vulcain Skindiver Nautique is currently available from Vulcain’s website. Price: US$1,640 (rubber or leather), US$1,920 (bracelet), US$1,970 (alligator).

Brand	Vulcain
Model	Skindiver Nautique
Reference Number	660170A67.BHM286 660170A37.BHM286
Case Dimensions	38mm (D) x 12.2mm (T) x 44.5mm (LTL)
Case Material	Stainless steel
Water Resistance	200 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire
Dial	Orange Brushed blue
Strap	Vintage style stainless steel bracelet, folding clasp Choice of leather and rubber straps, steel pin buckle
Movement	ETA 2824, automatic
Power Reserve	38 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds
Availability	Available now
Price	US$1,640 (rubber or leather) US$1,920 (bracelet) US$1,970 (alligator)