The new Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Pogue tributes the brand’s legendary space chronograph
Borna BošnjakThere are several watch brands out there that have incredibly strong fan bases, but one has always stood out to me, and that’s Seiko. Sure, I might be a tad biased considering I’m a Seiko fanboy through-and-through, but the way the brand has captured its cult following is truly unique. And in Seiko’s storied past, no watch captures that enthusiast spirit better than the Pogue Speedtimer chronograph. Famous for its Pepsi bezel and shining golden dial, the model has become a cornerstone of vintage Seiko collecting, and often serves as proof that the prospective owner has now gone past the enthusiast point of no return. So what better colourway to use for the next version of the popular Seiko Prospex Speedtimer chronograph? Originally released in 2021 in a panda variant, before getting a diameter bump and some colourful, 6139-adjacent bezels, the Prospex Speedtimer Pogue finally gets the most revered Seiko colour scheme of them all. Let’s take a closer look.
A short Pogue history
But before we talk about the new watch, it’s worth delving into why the Pogue is so important in the world of Seiko. Not only is it a brilliantly eye-catching combination of colours, but the original Seiko 6139 chronograph was a result of the brand’s participation in the three-horse race that decided who brought the first automatic chronograph to market. Zenith’s El Primero is the commonly accepted victor in this battle, bringing its chronograph to market in January 1969, but examples of Seiko’s 6139 have been dated as early as October 1968. In truth, the intrigue in this legendary tale for me was never in who the true winner was, but the mystique and twists of tale are what make it worth exploring.
So, we’ve established that the 6139 movement powering the original Pogue models was one of historical significance, but why the gold dial in particular? That is thanks to Colonel William Pogue, hence the watch’s nickname. Initially selected to participate in the Apollo 19 mission (which was later aborted), Pogue was instead chosen to spend 84 days in space as part of the Skylab 4 mission. On his right wrist? An Omega Speedmaster, of course. On his left, however, was a yellow-dialled Seiko chronograph he purchased on the 13th of June 1972 for US$71. As the watch was not approved by NASA, Pogue stuck it in the leg pocket of his space suit, putting it on once on board and tracking Central Standard Time. And, unlike many chronograph owners, he actually used it to time engine burns during pre-flight training, going on to perform EVAs during the mission, and continuing to wear it until 2003.
The watch sold in 2008 through Heritage Auctions, hammering in at a staggeringly low US$5,975. William Pogue passed away aged 84 on the 3rd of March 2014, but his choice of wristwear went on to become legendary for any Seiko or space watch lover.
The dial
Let’s get into the main attraction of the Prospex Speedtimer Pogue, and that’s the bright yellow dial. The sunburst effect is wonderfully rich, though toned down by the black translucent sub-dials that serve as pass-throughs for sunlight, as this is a solar-powered watch. Something only the biggest of Pogue nerds will notice is the black rehaut, perhaps a nod to the famous Aussie Pogue, a rare variant of the original 6139 that featured a black inner rotating bezel.
The chunky sword hands and thick, LumiBrite-filled rectangular markers are a carryover from other solar Prospex Speedtimer models, as is the 04:15-positioned date window, which you could already guess I’m not that fond of. Nevertheless, the other additional functions are well-integrated into the existing tri-register layout, including a handy power reserve indicator that doubles up as a chronograph minutes totaliser.
The case
As you may have come to expect from a modern Seiko sports watch, the diameter and thickness are on the larger side, measuring in at 41.4mm across and 13mm in height. These are by no means preposterous, but perhaps just a step above from your classic 40mm diver. This is a Seiko sports watch though, so lug-to-lug is kept at a tame 45.9mm that should suit most wrist sizes. The pushers and crown match the case in its steel construction, while the bezel insert is a bi-colour aluminium number. Now, I do hear those who may be calling for a sapphire insert, but with a watch so clearly inspired by a vintage model, I cannot fault it here, nor for the fact that the blue and red will age beautifully.
As for finishing, you have a pretty standard mix of polishing and brushing, where the former is kept to a minimum, just gracing the highlights not to intrude on the watch’s inherent sportiness. While the pushers don’t screw down, the Prospex Speedtimer Pogue is water-resistant to 100 metres, beating the original 6139s by a whole 30 metres. Then again, some of those old dials did say “waterproof“, so you decide for yourself.
The bracelet
The three-link bracelet matches the mostly brushed look of the case, rendered in a pretty standard three-link format, finished in a small push-button folding clasp with two holes of microadjust. Having a milled inner, this is one of the better Seiko clasps, but it’s admittedly not this bracelet’s strong point. Comfort-wise, there’s little to complain about, as the bracelet does a good job of balancing out the fairly heavy watch head. If you’re looking to switch it up, the 21mm lug width will make that somewhat more difficult, though with enough perseverance, I’m sure you’ll be able to find a strap that fits (or squeeze in a 22mm).
The movement
Beneath the pretty basic screw-down caseback, you’ll find Seiko’s V192 solar chronograph movement. Seiko quotes accuracy numbers of +/-15 seconds per month, with six months of autonomy on a full charge. While solar quartz may not be the most romantic of choices for such an emotionally charged tribute piece, it makes perfect sense considering the added cost even the most affordable Seiko mechanical chronograph would add. Seiko has done right by their fans here, making sure that they get the most utility out of a quartz movement, having given it solar charging capabilities.
The verdict
To a Seiko nerd like myself, watches like this Pogue revival or the prior Cevert colourway Speedtimers are just what the doctor ordered. Sure, the date window is superfluous and snobs would prefer it with a mechanical chronograph movement, but I don’t see those as being significant hurdles to those with an original Pogue in their collection, looking for something that’s friendlier to wear on a daily basis. In an inflation-heavy climate where awesome Seikos at affordable prices are harder and harder to come by, the new Prospex Speedtimer SSC947 is proof that the brand is still in tune with its fans.
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Pogue SSC947 pricing and availability
The Seiko Prospex Speedtimer SSC947 will be available in October of 2024. Price: US$700, A$1,100
Brand | Seiko |
Model | Prospex Speedtimer |
Reference | SSC947 |
Case Dimensions | 41.4mm (D) x 13mm (T) x 45.9mm (LTL) |
Case Material | Stainless steel |
Water Resistance | 100 metres |
Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
Dial | Sunburst yellow |
Lug Width | 21mm |
Strap | Three-link steel bracelet, folding clasp |
Movement | V192, solar chronograph |
Power Reserve | 6 months on full charge |
Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, chronograph, date, overcharge protection, 24-hour hand, power reserve |
Availability | October 2024 |
Price | US$700 A$1,100 |