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The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time in green & gold epitomises the glamour of international travel

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time in green & gold epitomises the glamour of international travel

Jamie Weiss

Are you familiar with colour theory? In essence, it’s the study of how different colours work together, what they signify and how they affect our emotions and perceptions. Green, for instance, evokes nature – but it also signifies growth, abundance, peace, and most importantly, wealth. When it comes to watches, green dials have often been associated with exclusivity and prestige: there’s just something particularly luxurious about green. Of course, gold is also a tone that’s associated with wealth, for obvious reasons. So, if you put the two together on the canvas that is a Vacheron Constantin, you have a recipe for luxury. Earlier this year at Watches and Wonders, we got hands-on with the new Vacheron Constantin Overseas Green Collection, which features the first Overseas models with green dials. The collection encompasses a few different takes on the iconic luxury sports watch, but we thought we’d focus on the Overseas Dual Time in particular, as, at least in my opinion, it’s the standout from the collection.

The case

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Gold in hand
Everything you would expect from an Overseas case in brilliant rose gold.

Let’s get down to brass tacks. Or rather, gold tacks. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time in the Green Collection features a case crafted from 18k pink gold. Christian Selmoni, Vacheron Constantin’s style and heritage director, explains that they chose to pair the Overseas’ first green dials with pink gold because, as he puts it, “the intense green colour acts as a revealer, enhancing the brilliance of the gold while ensuring exceptional legibility of the watch’s functions.” He even hopes this colour combo of green and gold will become as iconic as blue-dialled Overseas watches are – now that’s perhaps a bit optimistic, but time will tell.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Gold tilt
Vacheron pieces always have a wonderful feel on the wrist.

At 41mm in diameter, the Overseas Dual Time is a little on the larger side, with that gold providing plenty of heft. In my experience, the Overseas tends to wear quite flat on the wrist – it’s a deceptively big watch – and that effect is only heightened when in gold, so keep that in mind. Of course, for some, big and bold is better for a gold watch. You want to feel the weight! The pink gold alloy Vacheron has used here is exceptionally lustrous, its bright brassy tones complementing its green dial adroitly.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Gold profile
Vacheron Constantin’s finishing is never limited to the movement, as we can see on the case here.

The gold is nicely finished: vertically brushed lugs and a circularly brushed plinth are contrasted by a polished bezel and case sides, with a thin polished bevel flowing from the case down to the bracelet. At 12mm thick, it’s perfectly dressy, while boasting a 150-metre water-resistance rating.

The dial

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Gold dial closeup
It’s hard to not love an Overseas dial.

Yes, this Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time has a green dial, but let’s get more specific about the shade. Compared to some of the green dials we’ve seen Vacheron debut in the Traditionelle collection lately (such as with this green/platinum Traditionnelle Tourbillon and also a green/gold Traditionelle Manual-winding), it’s significantly more verdant, with an extra-bright sunburst accentuated by multiple layers of glossy lacquer. It’s more emerald than forest green.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Gold dial
Do the pop’s of red on the Overseas Dual Time work for you?

A feature that the Overseas Dual Time boasts that other models in the Overseas Green Collection don’t is some red highlights, which can be found on the tip of the GMT and AM/PM hands. Admittedly, it’s a very subtle touch, but having those little pops of red contrast helps aesthetically elevate the Dual Time over the other models in the Green Collection.

The straps

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Green Gold straps
The three strap options for watches in the Vacheron Overseas Dual Time Green Collection (Overseas Self-Winding pictured).

Like virtually every Overseas reference, this green and gold Overseas Dual Time comes with three strap options. Firstly, there’s an integrated gold bracelet, with links that recall Vacheron Constantin’s Maltese cross logo and a butterfly clasp. It also comes with two additional green straps – a rubber number and a leather strap, both featuring pink gold hardware – which can easily be swapped in thanks to the Overseas’ quick-change system.

The movement

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Gold caseback
Getting a chance to see the Overseas movement is always a treat.

The movement under the hood is the in-house 5110 DT, which features a 60-hour power reserve and the Geneva Seal. A broad mainplate with elegant côtes de Genève and bevelled screws peeks out from behind a large 22k gold oscillating weight (because there wasn’t enough gold in this watch, obviously). It’s a particularly user-friendly take on a travel watch: a true GMT movement, its extra hand can be moved in one-hour increments via the crown, while a pusher just below it at 4:30 advances the date display. Rather than using a 24-hour hand, it instead features an AM/PM indicator at 9 o’clock connected to the GMT hand, making it easier to read the second time zone at a glance.

The verdict

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Gold flatlay
A Vacheron Constantin Overseas is always special, add in green and gold, forget about it.

I think I’d be remiss as an Australian not to point out that green and gold are Australia’s national sporting colours, making this Vacheron a particularly appealing watch to those of an Antipodean persuasion. But I also reckon the Dual Time complication makes it even more Aussie still. Let me explain. Australians love travelling internationally, and most Aussies have friends or family overseas, so for a well-heeled, jet-setting Australian (or Brazilian, it’s Brazil’s colours too) this Vacheron makes a lot of sense… Or maybe that’s just me justifying to myself why I like the Dual Time over the other complications in the Green Collection.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Gold
It was hard to let this Overseas go at Watches and Wonders this year.

Look, I need to come clean here: the Overseas Dual Time is my grail watch (specifically, the Overseas Dual Time Everest). I’m on the record for saying that if I could only wear one watch, it would be an Overseas Dual Time. To be honest, I probably wouldn’t want to own this gold version – especially if it was my only watch – but it’s still an exceptionally handsome thing. Its green and gold combination is absolutely regal and works perfectly for a watch that by its very name epitomises the glamour of international travel.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Green Collection pricing & availability

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time from the Green Collection is available now from Vacheron Constantin boutiques and retailers. Price: US$75,500, A$126,000

Brand Vacheron Constantin
Model Overseas Dual Time
Reference Number 7920V/210R-B965
Case Dimensions 41mm (D) x 12mm (T)
Case Material 18k pink gold
Water Resistance 150 metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire front and back
Dial Green sunburst
Lug Width Integrated
Strap 18k pink gold bracelet, butterfly clasp
Green leather and rubber straps with quick-release, 18k pink gold buckle
Movement 5110 DT, in-house, automatic, Geneva Seal
Power Reserve 60 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds, date, GMT, AM/PM
Availability Now
Price US$75,500
A$126,000