The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium is deceptively simple, and a worthy cover star
Borna BošnjakUnlike many new releases, inspired by models of days past or signalling a new brand direction, the raison d’être of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in titanium is quite simple to understand. It’s Vacheron Constantin’s sportiest model offering, meaning titanium makes perfect sense, and being a member of the Holy Trinity, so does the haute horlogerie tourbillon complication. So, if it’s such a no-brainer, what exactly prompted us to pick this very watch as the cover star of our latest NOW Watch Buying Guide magazine? The answer is in the question, as the Overseas Tourbillon Titanium is much more than the sum of its parts, all of which are excellent in their own right. Let’s break them down, shall we?
The dial
What better place to start than the dial? The lacquered blue has been the stand-out feature of the Overseas line, with many touting it to be the best in the business. I happen to agree with this, and even though Vacheron Constantin has made a push to introduce green to the Overseas collection this year, I don’t see it usurping the royal (blue) reign any time soon. And what a blue it is, making the most of the layers of matte and translucent lacquer to give it immense depth, with luminance qualities better than many enamel dials I’ve seen. My favourite feature has to be the way the colour interacts when reaching an edge, here being most obvious at the perimeter of the tourbillon aperture. The blue gradually darkens, before a razor-thin white line separates it from the additional dial element, subtly highlighting it.
Not that the Maltese cross-shaped tourbillon needed any additional highlighting, if we’re being honest. Suspended by a hand-polished bridge, it takes up most of the lower dial portion, doubling up as a small seconds indicator thanks to a single blued screw on one of the cross arms.
The case
The dial is downright impressive, but you already knew it would be given the Overseas’ pedigree. What blew me away was how well-executed the case finish was. This is grade 5 titanium, remember, and I could put together a long list of titanium watches that leave something to be desired when it comes to finishing, given brands’ tendency to go all-brushed and call it a day. The Overseas Tourbillon Titanium is as far away from that as you can imagine, and I can safely say that it’s the best-finished titanium watch I’ve ever seen in person.
The bezel is polished to a mirror finish, its surround frosted, before transitioning to the vertical brushing of the main case. That brings you a sharp bevel away from the equally reflective case sides that taper towards the caseback, reducing the footprint on the wrist somewhat.
Both the caseback and crown are of a screw-down variety, though the Overseas Tourbillon Titanium only has 50 metres of water resistance. This would be a point of contention on a standard, time-only Overseas model, but considering the high-end complication, it’s a point I can forgive.
If you’re at all familiar with the third-generation Overseas, you’ll know that it’s best suitable for medium-to-large wrists with a straight profile, owing to the watch’s tendency to wear flat. The Overseas Tourbillon Titanium takes that up a notch given its increase to 42.5mm in diameter, staying wonderfully slender at just 10.39mm. It does wear large, especially so on my rounded, 17.5cm/6.8in wrist, but not uncomfortably so thanks to the inverted end-link that turns down immediately.
The bracelet and straps
Another Overseas signature is the inclusion of three different strap options right out of the gate, something that sets Vacheron Constantin apart from other brands. I’d guess most prospective owners will choose to leave it on the titanium bracelet (because why wouldn’t you?), but the included blue waffle-pattern rubber and stitched calfskin straps options are just as valid and easily interchangeable thanks to the quick-swap tabs on the back.
The straps are paired with a single folding clasp that’s shaped like the brand logo, while the logo-inspired bracelet finishes in a butterfly clasp. This is another thing that I’d normally mark a sports watch down for, given the lack of adjustability, but the Overseas gets a pass due to its unique bracelet link shape. Having said that, seeing Vacheron execute a hidden, Maltese cross clasp with built-in, tool-less adjustment would be a gamechanger, and something that I’m certain the brand is capable of.
The movement
I briefly mentioned the exposed tourbillon while talking about the dial, though you won’t get the full experience of all the treats that are on offer until you turn the watch over. The Overseas Tourbillon Titanium is equipped with Vacheron Constantin’s in-house Calibre 2160, a 5.65mm thin, self-winding movement that’s been around for some time. The usual smattering of finishes is there – Geneva striping, baseplate perlage, polished and countersunk screws and jewels, etc. There are a few sharply bevelled external angles, though the anglage is quite thin throughout, with no internal angles in sight.
The finishing highlight is certainly that hand-polished tourbillon bridge visible from the dial, but Vacheron Constantin makes sure none of the other components are obscured by something like a pesky rotor, instead integrating the oscillating weight into the perimeter of the movement, fashioned from 22k gold. Spec-wise, the 2160 beats at a leisurely 2.5Hz, with some anti-magnetic properties and an 80-hour power reserve.
The verdict
In my opinion, watches like this Overseas Tourbillon Titanium define Vacheron Constantin today. Not only is it a highly sought-after model that was an early adopter of a current trend, it also shows off the brand’s know-how in the best possible light. Owing to its high price and low production numbers, this won’t be Vacheron Constantin’s main moneymaker, nor do I think that was ever the brand’s intention. Instead, just like a flagship supercar, it’s meant to be the stuff of dreams, plastered on bedroom wall posters and magazine front covers – so that’s what we did.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon Titanium pricing and availability
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon in titanium is now available, gracing the cover of our new Issue 9 of our NOW Watch Buying Guide magazine. Price: US$129,000
| Brand | Vacheron Constantin |
| Model | Overseas Tourbillon |
| Reference | 6000V/210T-H032 |
| Case Dimensions | 42.5mm (D) x 10.39mm (T) |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Translucent blue lacquer |
| Lug Width | Integrated |
| Strap | Grade 5 titanium bracelet, butterfly clasp Blue rubber and leather straps |
| Movement | Calibre 2160, in-house, automatic, poinçon de Genève |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$129,000 |