Taking a deep dive into the Omega Seamaster

Time+Tide

“Bond. James Bond.”  It doesn’t get much more iconic than that. And although Rolex was there first, the Bond franchise is probably your initial thought when the classic Omega Seamaster is mentioned. That’s some seriously good branding. But the Seamaster is much more than simply the “Bond watch”. Current model ranges under the larger Seamaster umbrella include the Diver 300M, the Planet Ocean, the Aqua Terra. There are miscellaneous others referred to as “Heritage” models, which include such pieces as the original 300, the Railmaster, and the larger-than-life Ploprof, and Instruments which include the new ana-digi Regatta. And fair warning: the sheer number of choices can be overwhelming, but fear not. Although it’s impossible to mention every single Seamaster variant in this article (there are literally hundreds), I want to touch on the history of the model, its evolution, famous fans, and the ones I’d add to my watchbox.

Early history

Although Bond’s Diver 300M is probably the Seamaster most people think of, the model didn’t start out that way. In fact, you’d probably mistake the original Seamaster for a dress watch, and you’d be right. Sort of. You see, the problem with most dress watches made before the 1930s was that the slightest contact with water meant a trip to the watchmaker. See that sink in the kitchen? Don’t even look at it.

Rolex sorted that out with the introduction of its water-resistant Oyster case. Another major advance was the self-winding movement, eliminating the need to unscrew the crown to wind your watch’s manual movement, further reducing the possibility of water damage. Around that same time (1932), Omega produced what they call the first commercially available water-resistant diving watch, the Marine, that utilised a slightly inelegant double-case design sealed with cork, but it worked. They also invented the precursor of what’s now known as a diver’s extension clasp, created to more easily adjust the strap over a bulky diving suit.

But Omega recognised the advantages of a water-resistant dress watch, and in 1948, introduced the first Seamaster, designed like military watches with an O-ring to seal out moisture, but in a much classier package. The benefits and wide appeal of a dressy sports watch are clearly obvious, and the Seamaster really nailed the brief. And Omega recently paid tribute to the Seamaster’s origin story with a limited edition model, the 1948 Co-Axial Master Chronometer 38mm, a real looker, and a good sight more accurate and water-resistant than its great-grandfather.

Fast forward to 1957, and the introduction of the Seamaster 300, created to directly compete with other dive watches of the day, including the Submariner. Changes included a substantially larger 39mm case, long, flat lugs, and a black dial with glowing (and dangerous) radium for better visibility. The look is so classic, Omega recently brought it back for its “Trilogy” reissue series, available in a boxed set along with the Railmaster and Speedmaster from the same era.

In the early ’60s, the case design changed again, to the now-familiar twisted “lyre” lugs that have become an integral part of Omega’s design language. These versions have a strong association with the military and professional diving, and are therefore highly coveted, to the point where there are countless fakes to trip up the novice collector.

But the watch most of us think of when the Seamaster is mentioned is the Diver 300M, first introduced in 1993 with a high-profile series of endurance tests by noted explorers, adventurers, and athletes the world over. And in what became a defining point in the Seamaster’s history, EON Productions struck a deal to feature the new watch in the James Bond films, starting with the debut of Pierce Brosnan as 007 in 1995’s Goldeneye.

Famous wearers

After that movie was a smash success (and with it, the now-legendary blue-dialled 300M), Omega never looked back. It’s been Q Branch’s standard issue for 007 since, with Daniel Craig’s Bond receiving some especially choice references over the years, including the big, bad Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M, the oh-so-tasteful 300 Co-axial Spectre model with its 12-hour bezel and black and grey-striped fabric strap, and the hard-as-nails No Time To Die titanium version with matching mesh bracelet. My advice? You can never go wrong with the classic wave dial Seamaster 300M, unless you have a particular favourite Bond film you want to own the exact model from, the original will always be the one for me.

As far as brand associations go, Omega seems to be working for Bond. Commander Bond is in pretty good company with some other noted Seamaster owners, including George Clooney, Prince William (a gift from his mother, Princess Diana), Mad Men’s Jon Hamm, Olympic swimming legend Michael Phelps, and even President Joe Biden.

And although the Diver 300M of today is the mainstay of the lineup, there really is something for every taste under the…er…sea. And instead of attempting to navigate the murky waters of the vintage watch market (all I’ll say is “buy the seller” before you even think of buying the watch), I’ll wrap things up with my picks for the modern references I’d add to my collection in a New York minute.

Favourite models

My first choice is the Omega Seamaster 300 trilogy edition, a gorgeous slab of vintage-inspired goodness. Though both it and its near-twin (the previously-mentioned 300 Spectre) are only available on the secondary market, this one’s the logical choice, with strong links to the origins of the model.

Next up, a real contender as a do-it-all sporty dress watch, the Omega Aqua Terra. Available in a broad range of sizes, dials, and metals for any wrist, the Aqua Terra is a great alternative to Grand Seiko, or the unavailable-at-retail Rolex Datejust. It features the highly regarded Co-Axial movement pioneered by George Daniels, and is available in a wide range of colour options – including this Summer Blue stunner.

From the urbane and sophisticated, to the completely bonkers. If you play hard in the water, aren’t afraid of unconventional looks, and have the wrist acreage to pull it off, might I suggest the mighty Omega Seamaster Ploprof? A 55mm-by-48mm O-Megasteel behemoth, this baby will go places humans will never go (all the way to 1200 metres below the surface), but hey, why not be sure, right? If you’re gonna go big, this is the nuclear option.

And now for something completely different. Omega is going hard in ceramic, with several models now available in white, grey, and even a vibrant blue case, but for my money, always bet on black. The 43.5mm Omega Diver 300M Ceramic is a sinister presence on the wrist, with its high-tech ceramic case, strictly-business NATO strap, and stealthy overall aesthetic. You’ll feel just a bit more adventurous than usual.

Finally, I couldn’t finish off this list without a nod to Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Released well before the delayed No Time To Die, the Omega Diver 300M Co-Axial Master Chronometer 42mm Titanium is pure menace with its bead-blasted finishing, “aged” lume, and tropical-toned dial and bezel. And the matching mesh titanium bracelet? It’s one of those things that must be felt to be believed: it’s that good. Daniel Craig himself had a hand in the design… what more could you possibly want?

Icon isn’t a word we throw around lightly, and in the case of the Omega Seamaster, the title is well-earned. So whether you’re dressed to kill in a wetsuit or a Tom Ford tuxedo, there’s sure to be a Seamaster to accompany you on your mission.