11 of the best stone dials from labradorite to pietersite

Buffy Acacia

Using precious stone as a material for watch dials is a relatively new concept in watchmaking, dating back to Piaget’s first range in 1963. Presented in lavish, feminine cases with set gemstones and elaborate bracelets, these slabs of lapis lazuli, opal, malachite, tiger’s eye, and more were an absolutely dazzling display. Before long, one ended up on the wrist of Jackie Kennedy. The trend hit full swing in the 1970s with Rolex getting in on the action, but it mostly petered out in the ‘80s, surviving through some editions of Must de Cartier.

In the last year, an emerging stone dial trend has catapulted into the mainstream. Both microbrands and high-end independents are embracing the natural variances in stones to create unique dials for an ultimate personal attachment. For the purposes of this list, we’re sticking with natural stones formed on Earth. If you’re looking for meteorite dials, we have a separate list. Mother of pearl may be considered a gemstone in the jewellery industry, but as a nacre byproduct from mollusc shell, it doesn’t qualify here either.

Signum Cero Bronze Labradorite

Blue dials and dive watches are a match made in heaven, but even better is a high quality and high value diver with an unusual, multi-coloured stone. Labradorite is a type of feldspar first found in Labrador, Canada, and its mystical flash of colours is known as labradorescence. Signum has released all kinds of precious dials, but weighing up specifications it’s hard to go past the Cero Bronze as one of its best bang-for-buck options. Powered by a Seiko NH35 or NH38 depending on whether you want a date display, you also have your pick of a 39.5mm or 42.5mm case size. 200m of water resistance, a ceramic bezel insert, a sapphire crystal, and a solid steel bracelet are just icing on the cake. Price: US$519

Impossible Watch Co Time-Only Malachite

Giving full attention to the malachite sample used for its dial, the Impossible Watch Co Time-Only is a minimal and classy daily wearer. Its particular example of malachite shows its strong horizontal bands of green in various shades, formed by layers of copper deposits. The stepped bezel of the 28.5mm case offers another level of Art Deco inspired refinement, as does the beads of rice bracelet. It’s powered by a Miyota 82S0 to keep things relatively affordable. It also comes packaged in a leather watch case with room for another. Price: US$755

Nivada Grenchen F77 Lapis Lazuli

A modern recreation of a ‘70s Nivada sports watch, the F77 has been turned into an incredible specimen thanks to the addition of a lapis lazuli stone dial. The 37mm case diameter lends itself to versatile vintage styling, while the 100m of water resistance does make it legitimately able to go anywhere and do anything. The lapis dial gives it a deep blue colour along with constellations of pyrite, giving it a dynamic texture. This watch is also available from the Time+Tide Shop. Price: US$1,390

Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde Lapis-Lazuli

Released in 2022 among versions of malachite and aventurine, the Louis Erard Excellence Petite Seconde Lapis-Lazuli has one of the most stimulating lapis dials I’ve ever seen for an attainable cost. Louis Erard is all about giving its customers the highest luxury experience it possibly can for the least amount of money, with real art influences that don’t feel gimmicky. This watch, which is a limited edition of 99 pieces, pairs the frosted blast of blue and grey with rhodium-plated hands and a polished 39mm case. Price: CHF 2,500 (~US$2,890)

Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine

So, this isn’t actually a natural stone, but this kind of aventurine is too popular to totally ignore. It’s utilised in a similar way to stone and equally difficult to work with. Created by suspending copper dust and coloured glass, the dial plates have to be sliced with painstaking caution to make sure it’s an attractive section with even distribution, zero imperfections, and definitely no cracks. The Ulysse Nardin Marine Torpilleur Moonphase Aventurine is a particularly gorgeous example of how it transforms a watch dial into the night sky, with a moonphase display completing the astronomical picture and the Roman numerals seemingly floating in space. Paired with the marine chronometer heritage, it’s easy to imagine staring up at the stars from the deck of a ship. Price: US$13,700

Omega Constellation 29mm

Although most aventurine dials used in watchmaking are glass-based, that process is actually inspired by natural aventurine which is a form of quartzite. Capturing genuine ‘aventurescence’, the Omega Constellation 29mm is one of the few watch collections to use the natural form. The green version is incredibly dynamic, with glimmering cracks running through the colouring and a mysterious texture that almost looks like TV static. The Constellation styling is perfect for this dial as well, with classical elegance and just the right amount of quirkiness. Price: US$11,900

Berneron Mirage 34

Rather than containing the movement in a traditional circular shape, the hand-wound Calibre 215 of the Berneron Mirage 34 was designed for performance first, and shape as an afterthought. Then, the case and dial were formed around it, leaning into the warped nature without pulling back on luxury. With stone dials available in tiger’s eye and lapis lazuli, a thicker slab than usual is used so that the small seconds subdial can be carved out of the same stone. That way, the specific grain of the piece remains consistent throughout the whole dial. Price: CHF 48,000 (~US$55,600)

Rolex Day-Date 36 Carnelian

Rolex harkened back to the 1970s by introducing a range of precious stone dials to the Day-Date 36. Carnelian is not one of the most exciting stones on its own as a form of chalcedony, but here it’s been given a chance to shine glamorously. Appearing like a gradient of orange, brown and red, the soft bands almost evoke a sandstorm scene out of Dune. The yellow gold case supports the warmth of the carnelian without making it overbearing, and diamond-set Roman numerals supply it with that carefree luxury swagger we all associate with 1970s Rolex. Price: US$58,700

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Turquoise

Given the popularity of Tiffany blue in recent years, it should be no surprise that a solid gold Royal Oak with a natural turquoise stone dial is an exciting proposition. Turquoise was one of humanity’s first gems to be mined, and its vivid sky-blue hues lead the Indigenous inhabitants of Iran, Sinai, and North America to give it plenty of mystical significance. Housed in a 37mm case of 18k yellow gold, the turquoise is all the more bright and magnificent, and no detail has been spared attention as shown by the blue date wheel. The contrast between aquamarine’s wash of blue and its dark streaks makes every dial obviously unique too, giving you a more personal attachment to the watch than perhaps with other materials. Price: CHF 55,200 (~US$63,675)

Bulgari Divas’ Dream Black Opal

Black opal is one of the most expensive gemstones in the world because of its rarity and vivid mix of psychedelic colours. Likely sourced from Australia, the black opal of the Bulgari Divas’ Dream watch makes it look like some kind of mystical portal, surrounded by a gorgeous rose gold case and scaled bracelet studded with diamonds. Delightfully petite at 33mm wide and suitably slender, this watch is still sure to be noticed and adored. The elaborate gold bracelet is also weighty yet supple, and reminiscent of feathers. Price: US$71,000

Biver Automatique Atelier Series Pietersite

Jean-Claude Biver is one of the best respected minds in watchmaking, and his eponymous family brand was hotly anticipated. The Automatique Atelier Series is designed to be somewhat of a daily wearer and versatile, despite its high-luxury status and attention to minute details. Pietersite is a particularly chaotic variety of chalcedony that I’ve yet to see in any other watch dial, but its velvety-blue chatoyancy and jagged edges almost makes it look like ocean waves crashing on a coastline at night. Paired with a solid rose gold case and brutalist bracelet, there are so many unique elements without losing its sophistication. Price: CHF 108,000 (~US$124,810)