The PRX Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon is Tissot at its best
Borna BošnjakHow do you make sure your best-selling product stays relevant after the hype has died down? This is the challenge Tissot has faced ever since its production could meet demand for the PRX. Among numerous colour and surface finish variants, there were some notable attempts at refreshing the line, with 35mm models in both quartz and automatic, as well as the PRX Digital standing out as most novel. But it’s the latest addition to the PRX range that I believe to be the most important one yet, as it is distinct enough from the steel models to make it actually novel, and also integrates some features that make it an even better value than before. I’m talking, of course, about the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon which I spent nearly two weeks with – and it hardly left my wrist.
Carbon build, but not ultralight
Let’s start with the obvious – the forged carbon case. With a diameter of 40mm and thickness of 11.23mm, the PRX Carbon is practically identical (though a little thicker) to its steel counterpart. With this in mind, you’d assume that the case feels featherweight in hand, but that’s not really the case. Even though carbon is technically five times lighter than steel, the PRX Carbon weighs in at 75 grams, whereas a steel model sits at 90 grams. I guess that this is mostly down to the display caseback and crown still being made of steel rather than carbon, though I won’t lie when I say that the watch was much heavier than I expected it to be.
As far as build quality goes, I was honestly quite impressed. Carbon watches, especially affordable ones, can sometimes feel a little rough, almost as if the case was extruded by a 3D printer. While some of that is just the texture that carbon cases give off, the PRX Forged Carbon never felt unpleasant, nor were there any poorly finished edges risking getting nicked by a stray fibre of carbon.
But it’s not just the case we’re talking about when it comes to carbon – Tissot also chose the composite material for the dial. I’m a big fan of the chopped carbon look as it gives the dial excellent texture, something that’s difficult to achieve at a lower cost. The colour-matched date window is a nice touch, and legibility was never an issue, though I did find the dial printing a little flat. Unless you angle the watch just right, the “Tissot” and “PRX” printing will all but completely disappear, and if you look really closely, it just doesn’t match the premium look of the rest of the watch. These are admittedly quite nitpicky nitpicks, but with competition from microbrands hotting up all the time, it’s worth paying attention to them.
Upgraded movement is a plus
Speaking of dial text, it does telegraph the view you’ll see when flipping the case over, but doesn’t quite tell the full story. The movement is indeed the tried-and-true Powermatic 80 (based on the ETA C07/2824 architecture), but now upgraded with a silicon balance spring when compared to the regular PRX. This tech is something that I’d assume Tissot would make better use of since it became a headlining feature of the Tissot Gentleman, though it never quite seemed to catch on. Whatever way you look at it, I’ll take the excellent anti-magnetic properties of silicon any day, especially when coupled with the 80-hour power reserve – both great selling points at this price that make up for the lacklustre decoration and ease of servicing by third-party watchmakers.
Rubber strap is the way to go
It might be blasphemous to say this for a watch that was the horseman of the affordable integrated bracelet trend, but I’ll say it. The Tissot PRX is best worn on a rubber strap. Not only does it keep the weight down even more which is in line with the carbon case, but it also mitigates the ungainly design of the first non-articulating bracelet link and makes it a lot more comfortable for a wider range of wrists. I’ll admit I was somewhat sceptical when seeing that the PRX Carbon launched in 40mm, as I knew that this model just didn’t fit my wrist all that well. Thankfully, those concerns were invalidated when I put it on and never cropped up again during my time with the watch.
Closing thoughts
I’ve closely followed the journey of the PRX, especially as I was working as a Tissot sales associate at the time of its release. Ever since, there have been numerous examples that looked to capitalise on the trend, and while some exploited a particular niche really well like the Grendizer, others got a fair share of criticism, and sometimes deservedly so, for Tissot’s lack of imagination and just riffing on an already proven design. The PRX Carbon actually feels like a breath of fresh air for the PRX collection as a whole, and though it still has its imperfections (I just wish the logo was better applied), it doesn’t feel gimmicky, which is a real danger with a release like this. For those who found the Sideral just a bit too big or too quirky, the PRX Forged Carbon seems perfect. The PRX has been out for quite a few years now, and I wonder whether the Forged Carbon is the first generation’s swan song, as Tissot will inevitably refresh the design in the next couple of years.
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Having said all that, you are paying a nearly 40% premium over the regular 40mm steel models on bracelets. US$270 is no chump change at the affordable end of the market. With the improvements in ergonomics thanks to the case and strap integration, the novelty of the carbon case material itself, as well as the movement upgrade, it’s a justified premium in my eyes.
Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon pricing and availability
The Tissot PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon is now available. For a selection of Tissot PRX models, make sure to check out the Time+Tide Shop. Price: US$995
| Brand | Tissot |
| Model | PRX 40 Powermatic 80 Forged Carbon |
| Reference | T137.907.97.201.00 |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 11.2mm (T) |
| Case Material | Forged carbon |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front, mineral back |
| Dial | Forged carbon |
| Strap | Integrated rubber strap, pin buckle |
| Movement | Powermatic 80, ETA C07 base, automatic, silicon hairspring |
| Power Reserve | 80 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date |
| Availability | Now |
| Price | US$995 |