THE HOME OF WATCH CULTURE

Zodiac confirms the stone trend with the Super Sea Wolf in malachite and lapis lazuli

Zodiac confirms the stone trend with the Super Sea Wolf in malachite and lapis lazuli

Buffy Acacia

Stone dials may now be the biggest trend since green dials took off, with everyone from microbrands to high-end independents embracing the variances of natural materials. While we kind of expect to see this sort of experimentation from both ends of the brand size spectrum, a release from Zodiac is almost direct confirmation that stone dials are in the mainstream. It’s not a huge brand itself, but as a subsidiary of Fossil, it’s not exactly a risk taker. The new Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Stone Dial models are limited editions that explore two popular stones: malachite and lapis lazuli.

The dial

Zodiac Super sea wolf malachite Dial 1

There’s a lot to love about these watches, but the aspect I respect most is that Zodiac has emphasised the stones’ natural, chaotic beauty. Most brands that use malachite tend to orient its banding in neat, horizontal or vertical lines, but Zodiac has opted for an undulating, diagonal curvature. Of course every piece will be unique, but this is a fantastic example. The green layers in various dark and light shades are formed by fluctuations in copper as it crystallises. In fact, plenty of malachite is sourced as a simple byproduct of copper mining. The green minute hand is a nice touch, and pulls out some of those paler highlights in contrast with the darker tones.

Zodiac Super sea wolf Lapis Lazuli Dial 1

Lapis lazuli has been prized for thousands of years, and it’s easy to see why. It’s not a rare or particularly expensive stone, but its vivid blue and purple hues of lazurite being scattered by splotches of pyrite and calcite make it almost hypnotising to stare at. Being a dive watch, the royal blue almost looks like an aerial view of a vivid ocean. On both watches, the applied indices and hands give off a retro ‘60s or ‘70s feel, and they’re full of Super-LumiNova for solid legibility after dark.

The case

Zodiac Super sea wolf lapis lazuli Case 1

Zodiac is best known for its vintage dive watches, and the Super Sea Wolf has been a staple of its contemporary catalogue for years. Blending the best of modern manufacturing and vintage design, the long, sloping and sharp-edged lugs of the Super Sea Wolf give it a striking silhouette. Polished surfaces heighten its presence and set it apart from many other dive watches which focus on utility, and it’s clear the Super Sea Wolf is designed to be an eye-catching accessory. The ceramic bezel inserts also have a high-gloss finish with a liquid-like lustre, and helpful markers in the first quarter denoting both one and three minute intervals. The malachite model has a black DLC coating to enhance its contrast and mood, but it also adds a great deal of scratch resistance.

Zodiac Super sea wolf malachite Case 2

The case of the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf is about as big as you can get while still being comfortable on most wrists, which is a delicate balancing act. A 40mm diameter gives plenty of space for the stone dials to show themselves off, and the approximate lug-to-lug length of 49mm is pokey, but the downward angle helps. The 14mm thickness is substantial, but it’s a 200-metre dive watch with an automatic movement, so that’s no shock. The crown is unguarded in the spirit of its vintage style, but it does screw down so that it can’t be accidentally opened while underwater.

The movement

Zodiac Super sea wolf lapis lazuli Caseback

Swiss Technology Production is Fossil Group’s arm for Swiss movements, and it has gained a fairly good reputation in recent years. The STP1-11 did have occasional issues, but has since been discontinued and replaced with the STP1-21. The latter is what powers the Zodiac Super Sea Wolf, and although its upgraded tweaks have slightly lowered the power reserve to 40 hours, that’s more than enough for daily wear with automatic winding. In essence, it’s still a functional clone of the ubiquitous ETA 2824 with a 4Hz beat rate that gives the seconds hand a smooth sweep. From the factory, its quoted accuracy average is within -0/+15 seconds per day, which is pretty impressive. The caseback is solid, and embossed with Zodiac’s distinctive logo.

The bracelet

Zodiac Super sea wolf malachite lapis bracelet

With their stone dials, the Zodiac Super Sea Wolves don’t need much more grandiosity, but the inclusion of a Jubilee-style steel bracelet certainly adds some. Whether it’s plain on the lapis model or blackened with the malachite, the bracelet ventures closer to jewellery than simply acting as a strap, and it feels like the right choice for this kind of watch. It shows that even though it’s capable of being a no-nonsense diver, elegance has been a strong consideration. The butterfly clasp also contributes to that, being milled from solid steel and reducing bulk underneath the wrist, though not allowing for the kind of versatility a dive-style clasp would.

The verdict

Zodiac Super sea wolf malachite lume shot

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf is a tried-and-tested formula with any combination of colours, and adding natural stone is just another recipe for success. The decision to employ black DLC with the malachite reference was a great one, as it really distinguishes its darker characteristics from the more classical and versatile lapis lazuli. Its sizing and styling are all spot-on, and I’m having trouble finding even the tiniest nitpick. It’s almost a shame that these are limited to just 300 pieces each, and I hope we’ll continue to see Zodiac experiment with other stone dials in future.

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf Stone Dial Collection price and availability

The Zodiac Super Sea Wolf with malachite or lapis lazuli dials are limited to 300 pieces each. Price: US$2,095 (lapis), US$2,295 (malachite)

Brand Zodiac
Model Super Sea Wolf
Case Dimensions 40mm (D) x 14mm (T) x 49mm (LTL)
Case Material Stainless steel (lapis lazuli)
Stainless steel with black DLC (malachite)
Water Resistance 200 metres
Crystal(s) Sapphire
Dial Lapis lazuli
Malachite
Strap Stainless steel Jubilee-style bracelet, butterfly clasp
Movement STP1-21, automatic
Power Reserve 40 hours
Functions Hours, minutes, seconds
Availability Limited to 300 pieces each
Price US$2,095 (lapis)
US$2,295 (malachite)