7 of the best affordable dive watches

Jamie Weiss

Dive watches are probably the single most popular watch category and with good reason. They are robust, water resistant and – even as dress codes become increasingly casual – can also be worn pretty much anywhere you aren’t expected to wear a bow tie. The variations within dive watches over the decades are another reason that collectors find them so compelling. Some dive watches have important links to armed forces around the world, which can send enthusiasts into a frenzy of minutia obsession. Likewise, the different ways that brands have creatively overcome the challenges of the deep, such as legibility or helium build-up, allow for rich scholarship into the details of such evolutions.

But at the core of it, we all just love watches that look great and don’t need to be wrapped in cotton wool as we go about our busy lives. And if we don’t have to spend a fortune, that’s even better. So what are the best affordable dive watches out there right now? We’ve put together a list of 7 different references from several different brands that will all ring up the till less than US$5,000 (in watch collecting, everything is relative, especially what is affordable) and represent some of the best dive watches out there today.

Seiko SNJ025 Solar ‘Arnie’

Truthfully, there’s any number of Seiko dive watches one could put on this list, but I think the SNJ025 offers pretty good bang for one’s buck – as well as pop culture credibility to boot. A modern solar-powered recreation of the Seiko ref. H558-5000, which Arnold Schwarzenegger wore in both Commando and Predator, its 45mm tuna can-like case is surprisingly wearable thanks to its tiny lugs only reaching out to 50.5mm, even though the diameter is now a whopping 47.8mm. The ana-digi hybrid display offers great functionality as well, ensuring a powerful presence on the wrist in many ways. Short of a G-Shock, this is one of the toughest dive watches you can get on your wrist for the money. Price: US$525

Baltic Aquascaphe Classic

Brimming with vintage vibes at an affordable price, the Baltic Aquascaphe Classic’s good looks belie a modern, capable dive watch. Featuring a rich dark blue dial with aged lume and a sapphire-insert bezel that mimics the look of Bakelite (while being a whole lot more scratch-resistant), it’s water-resistant to 200 metres and comes on a supple ‘beads of rice’ bracelet. At 38mm in diameter, it adheres to vintage norms, too, while the workhorse Miyota 9039 movement within offers consistent if unspectacular performance. If you’re looking for a dive watch that won’t break the bank, it’s pretty hard to look past this Aquascaphe. Price: US$804, from the Time+Tide Shop

Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer

High up on the list of vintage diver reissues done right, this Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer is as close as a watch can get to perfection. Not only has the roulette-esque decompression timer been faithfully re-created in the most pleasing pastel shades possible, but the overall case design and 40.5mm sizing have been scaled up to modern tastes without encroaching on the retro vibe. The only thing not making this a one-for-one recreation of arguably Mido’s most iconic watch is the addition of a GMT hand and world time bezel – but enthusiasts haven’t complained one bit, as that means this Mido represents one of the most affordable world-timer (esque) watches on the market. The 80-hour COSC-certified movement seals the deal. Price: US$1,406, from the Time+Tide Shop

Zodiac Super Sea Wolf LHD Pro-Diver GMT

These days, Zodiac is better known for colourful releases that bring eye-catching hues to their updated classics – so this left-handed Zodiac Pro Diver is a bit outside the box, with a super-stealthy black countenance that’s no less arresting. A serious dive tool, the 42mm Super Sea Wolf LHD Pro-Diver GMT is a 300-metre badass in stark white-on-black, with discrete pops of orange that give it a flight instrument look. In fact, it wouldn’t look out of place in the cockpit of an SR-71 Blackbird, and the GMT functionality would come in quite handy while blazing across time zones at Mach 3 – but if you happen to bail out at sea, trust me, you’re covered. Price: US$2,295, from the Time+Tide Shop

Sinn T50

Germany’s Sinn is known for its capable timepieces with a cult-like following, and the titanium T50 is one of its most competent. For those who find Sinn’s 45mm T1 a bit too much, the T50 clocks in at a very wearable 41mm diameter, with a case height of just 12.3mm. But don’t let the smaller size fool you: the T50 is water-resistant to 500 metres, and the case is filled with gas that prevents fogging from sudden cold. The dial’s look is all business in black, white, and grey, and you can order yours on a coordinating black or grey silicone strap, or a titanium bracelet. Whatever your choice, it won’t weigh you down, as the titanium case’s weight is a scant 53 grams sans strap. Price: US$3,970

Doxa SUB 300 Carbon Professional

Speaking of lightweight timepieces with heavyweight specs, the Doxa SUB 300 has some unimpeachable diving cred. Legendary among serious divers (including famed explorer Jacques Cousteau), Doxa has seen a remarkable resurgence of late, due to their heritage, famed durability, and those retina-searing coloured dials. This carbon model is an elevated take on the SUB 300 that remains within affordable territory: it weighs just 87 grams but still boasts a 300-metre rating, and it’s a certified chronometer to boot. I personally love the classic bright orange of the Professional dial, especially when amplified by that steeply domed sapphire crystal. Price: US$3,990, from the Time+Tide Shop

Tudor Pelagos 39

Few brands dominate the US$5,000 price point more than Tudor. Rolex’s sister brand is the benchmark for affordable luxury – and the Tudor Pelagos 39 is the perfect combination of (relatively) affordable, robust and stylish. The titanium case is tough, lightweight, and at 39mm has a more classic Submariner profile than the OG 42mm Pelagos. The movement is Tudor’s COSC-certified MT5400, built by partner manufacture Kenissi, and I love the knowing wink of the red text on the no-date dial, a nod to classic Subs of yore. In a great bit of fan service, Tudor’s game-changing T-Fit clasp is standard on the titanium bracelet, which offers superb fit and a dive extension, eliminating gripes about previous Tudor clasps. All in all, it’s a stellar package from The Shield, who’s been taking The Crown’s tool-watch lunch money for some time. Price: US$4,700