The Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer brings another meaning to astronomical complications

• The latest creation from Russian watchmaker Konstantin Chaykin is the most complicated watch ever produced in Russia, featuring 17 complications in total.
• The Stargazer is a celebration of watchmaking complexity, combined with the themes of anthropomorphism and space exploration.
• This two-sided enigma features three patented inventions: a four-stage moon-phase indicator, sunrise and sunset azimuth indicators, and an 11-year solar activity indicator.

Russian watchmaking has, like many others, been eclipsed by the Swiss behemoth grabbing all of the attention over the years. However, as we know, it’s not just the Swiss that can innovate and produce industry-leading watches capable of stopping you in your tracks. Konstantin Chaykin is one of those artists. Chaykin has taken the watchmaking world by storm in recent years after his Joker creations went almost viral a few years ago. These watches were much more than just uniquely decorated pieces. They shed light on Chaykin’s capability as a watchmaker, which stretches back over 20 years. Now, Konstantin Chaykin has returned with a Russian record-breaker, the Stargazer.

Most of Konstantin Chaykin’s creations feature the now iconic face design, which has changed occasionally from a Joker, to a mouse, and even a Minotaur. The Joker’s face is what helped Chaykin reach the masses as the watches went viral, and helped propel the brand into stardom. The Stargazer was originally conceived as a unique piece for the postponed Only Watch 2023 auction and is no different to the others, in that it too carries the two-eyes-and-a-mouth signature look. This time, however, it’s carried over onto not just one side, but both sides of the watch.

This is for a good reason, too, because how else are you meant to display 17 complications? Yes, that’s right, 17 complications in total. 11 of these are astronomical in nature, connecting with Russia’s association with space exploration. The out-of-this-world themes don’t end there, with the 42mm x 15.3mm case looking like something crafted from materials found at a UFO crash site in Roswell, New Mexico. It’s machined from a unique stainless steel alloy called “bulat” steel, which has a distinct surface finish that is not only hard and durable, but also almost impervious to scratches.

But do not be fooled; this is no tool watch. Peering through the ruthenium-coated, partially skeletonised dial plates, you can see elements of the fascinating Caliber K.22-1 manually wound movement from Konstantin Chaykin Manufacture. Its 644 component consist of a 45-hour power reserve, a Swiss lever escapement, and 82 jewels, but the more interesting parts are split up across both sides of the watch. Firstly, the dark side consists of the more traditional indicators, with a solar time display (hours and minutes), the length of the day, the length of the night, the equation of time, a retrograde day of the week, a zodiac indicator, a Northern Hemisphere celestial map, a 24-hour mean solar time indicator, and a 24-hour sidereal time indicator.

Flip the watch over, and you’re greeted by the light side, and this is where things get really interesting. First up, we need to take a deep breath for this one; we have an astronomic precision moon phase and moon age display, which has a separate differential mechanism for driving and setting and has a deviation of one day in 122 years.

Next, we have a simple (ha, simple, he says) tourbillon, alongside four other world premiere complications, three of which are new patents for Konstantin Chaykin. There is a four-stage discrete moon phase indicator, a solar activity cycle and current cycle duration indicator, and finally, sunrise and sunset azimuth indicators. For those among us who are not astronautical engineers, these are used to measure azimuth, the angle between North, measured clockwise around the observer’s horizon, and a celestial body such as the sun or moon. Essentially, these indicators allow the wearer to accurately predict the location on the horizon where the sun will rise and set. Quite frankly, it comes to something when a tourbillon, arguably the king of complications, is possibly the least innovative feature on a watch.

Complications aside, the visual appeal of this piece is quite a statement, but not in the same way other Chaykin creations are. It’s a display of innovation and watchmaking prowess, housed in a unique and creative case design, which is difficult to consider gaudy or too ostentatious. Every detail is well thought-out, with the H sections of the end links allowing for the double-sided, calfskin strap to wrap around the wrist whichever way it is worn and the clever, reversible buckle, which can be used in both orientations.

Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer price & availability

The Konstantin Chaykin Stargazer is available directly from Konstantin Chaykin, with the price being available on application.