The oddball Gérald Genta-designed Omega that everyone forgets about

Adam Reeder

Gérald Genta is revered for his innovative vision and trendsetting designs. Whether it be the Universal Genève Polerouter, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, or the Patek Philippe Nautilus, his design prowess is undeniable. However, this is one design that he created for one of the biggest Swiss houses that very few know about, and we feel doesn’t get the recognition it deserves. The Omega Seamaster Polaris is a study in ’80s organic design that seems to live outside of Omega’s standard aesthetic language. And what makes it so different is why we love it.

Origin story

Brands reacted to the success of quartz technology in many different ways. And while Omega teamed up with a host of other Swiss brands to produce the Beta 21 as a groundbreaking piece of micro-electrical engineering, they were not going to stop there. In the constant hunt for the next thing to move themselves and the industry forward, the brand would reach out to the man who had already disrupted the industry with his design work, Gérald Genta. The end result of this collaboration? The Omega Seamaster Polaris.

The launch of the Polaris came towards the end of a period of uncertainty in the mechanical watch market. While quartz had leapfrogged the entire watch world in terms of sales by the late 1970s and early 1980s, Omega felt that it was the right time to have Genta design a forward-looking quartz model in his image.

What resulted was a watch that kept the Seamaster moniker but added a lot of Genta’s design DNA, and a dash of early ’80s quirkiness. The Omega Seamaster Polaris is without a doubt a one-of-a-kind watch – and very unlikely to be confused with the similarly-named Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris.

What is the Omega Seamaster Polaris?

While the Polaris was a member of Omega’s famed Seamaster line, it was by no means a traditional dive watch. The standard version has a diminutive diameter of just 32mm with a lug-to-lug measurement of 36mm, with even smaller models measuring it at just 23mm. A large watch, the Polaris was not.

The initial 1982 release was a basic, no-date three-hander without a diving bezel. It had a case thickness of just 7.2mm, so it was exceptionally thin for a member of the Seamaster family as well. The original model came with a water resistance of just 100 metres. While later models from the 1990s boasted up to 300 metres of water resistance, virtually nothing about the original Polaris release says “dive with me” other than the word Seamaster printed at the bottom of the dial.

The looks

Being a Genta creation, the Seamaster Polaris uses the integrated bracelet design that brings it right in line with so many of his designs from that period. It also includes a 2mm-thick, 18k gold inlay in the brushed titanium case. The original dial design was a basic matte black with applied hour pips around the perimeter. The case and bracelet were quite maximalist, with the inner bracelet links and geometric gold bezel inlay.

The varied elements of the case and bracelet may offer a clue as to why the dial itself takes such a minimalist posture. The bracelet links are slightly convex, giving the watch a little more dimension than most. Somehow, all of the elements of the watch seem to be slightly mismatched, but that’s what brings the entire look together. It’s a bit like an EDM festival costume that has so many seemingly disjointed elements that it makes the whole look feel intentional.

Its personality

Speaking of quirks, the looks alone of this watch should tell you that wearing the Seamaster Polaris is more of an adventure than a monotonous task. I love a good conversation piece, and that’s exactly what the Seamaster Polaris offers. It truly looks like no other watch I’ve ever seen. That being said, there were several different Polaris variants offered throughout the decade that Omega made.

From the original quartz three hander to digital chronographs and beyond, Omega didn’t hold back when it came to offering different options to Polaris customers. They even released automatic models, including automatic chronographs throughout the model’s run. There was a Polaris model for just about anyone who wanted to join the club, even releasing blinged-out models with diamonds adorning the 18k gold inlays.

Creative genius or mad scientist?

Genta is undoubtedly one of the giants of watch design of the last fifty years, but are his design choices above reproach? Different people have different opinions on the subject. With the Seamaster Polaris, Genta gave us a sense of fun and unabashed creativity. While many of his most popular designs invite descriptions such as “industrial” or “geometric”, the Polaris might be described as “whimsical” or, dare I say, “fun”.

The Omega Seamaster Polaris is not for everyone. Indeed, it’s probably not a watch for most people because of its unusual design and small size. However, that same quirkiness is what makes the watch such a special piece. It’s highly unique and has an incredibly interesting story behind it. It’s also a relic of a pivotal moment for the Swiss watch industry and Omega as a brand. It’s a timepiece that also functions as a time capsule, and that’s something that makes the Omega Seamaster Polaris worth your time.