The ultimate Orient watch guide that demystifies the popular entry-level brand

Buffy Acacia

With fun retro designs, fantastic value for money, and legitimate fine watchmaking heritage, Orient is one of the most underappreciated brands from the public at large. Watch enthusiasts may have spread the word amongst themselves about these Japanese bargains, but how much do you really know about Orient? Is it really just another division of Seiko, or a brand in its own right? The answer is actually kind of both and neither.

The company’s roots stretch back to an importer and wholesaler of watches called Yoshida Watch Shop, founded in 1901. Slowly, it expanded to manufacturing gold cases, and then finally wristwatches in 1934. Its factory in Hino, Tokyo was established in 1936, but the company was shut down following the second World War. The factory was reopened in 1950, and renamed to Orient Watch Company in 1951, giving us the name we know today. That’s also when it’s flagship model, the Orient Star, was first released.

The ‘60s and ‘70s were high points for Orient, introducing plenty of successful watches and even a record-breaking one in the Fineness Ultra Matic, which was the thinnest automatic watch with a day/date complication in 1967. The 2000s saw substantial change as Seiko Epson became the 52% shareholder in 2001, and things took a turn for the high-end. Seiko Epson, one of the three companies which make up Seiko Group, is responsible for manufacturing Grand Seiko and Credor watches, along with Seiko Astron. Each of the three Seiko Group companies (Seiko Group Corporation, Seiko Instruments Incorporated, and Seiko Epson) are actually operated as completely separate companies, but they help each other out every now and again.

With the Orient Technical Centre built in the town of Ugo in the Akita prefecture, the Royal Orient range with in-house, chronometer-level movements was prioritised as a kind of equivalent to Grand Seiko. However, it was eventually discontinued to avoid too much internal competition. Seiko Epson took full ownership of Orient in 2009, and the Orient company has technically been dormant ever since, with different divisions of Epson responsible for manufacturing and marketing watches under the Orient brand. Orient’s focus today is almost exclusively on bang-for-buck ranges, with its more popular cousin Seiko slowly moving upmarket. Let’s take a closer look at the catalogue’s heavy hitters.

Orient Bambino (Classic Collection)

Probably the go-to recommendation for any budget-friendly dress watch, the Orient Bambino has been a staple since its introduction in 2012. There are heaps of models to choose from, spanning dial layouts, case sizes and functionality, however the most important aspects are always present. A Bambino will always be classy, reliable, and look way more expensive that it actually is. These watches haven’t actually been called Bambinos officially for years, rather they’re part of the Classic Collection, but the nickname has stuck around thoroughly. All in all, there are currently too many references to count, but the best-selling ones are those with mechanical movements in 40.5mm or 38mm cases.

As something of a case study, the 38mm version with a small seconds sub-dial is a phenomenal example. The smaller case size is a relatively recent addition to the collection, but its domed, cream dial and blue hands are Bambino classics. The Roman numerals contribute to an overall sense of sophistication, while the intricate minute track shows careful attention to detail. A date display retains some daily practicality, along with the in-house, automatic calibre F6222 that provides a 40-hour power reserve with a 21,600vph beat rate.

Orient Kamasu (AKA Mako III)

For every person lamenting the discontinuation of the Seiko SKX diver, there are hundreds of Orient Kamasu divers just begging to be purchased. Orient’s official naming system doesn’t make it easy on us, but these watches can either be considered a Kamasu or a Mako III. They’re part of the Sports Collection, and can back it up with both technical capability and vibrantly colourful dials. They’re water resistant to 200 metres – more than adequate for recreational scuba diving – with a screw-down crown for added security. The sapphire crystal also brings scratch resistance, which can sometimes be hard to find on a professional diver at this price.

The diameter is 41.8mm with a 46.8mm lug-to-lug, making it easily wearable on small wrists. The 12.8mm thickness isn’t too bad either, considering the automatic calibre F6922 packs in a day/date complication. It’s also got a 40-hour power reserve with a 21,600vph beat rate, with hacking, hand-winding, and quick-set calendar. You can see why it’s such a popular alternative to the late Seiko SKX, considering its low price point and fully-featured spec list. If you’re not sold on the sharpness of the looks, the Orient Ray II and Mako II are more rounded, but with very similar specifications.

Orient Neo Classic

Another diver from Orient’s Sports Collection is the Neo Classic, based on the King Diver from the 1970s. Even if you didn’t know that, you could probably guess it from all of the unashamed ‘70s flair. All of the minute markers are pure blocks, with great slabs of orange applied to the first 15 minutes of the internal timing bezel that’s operated by the crown at 4 o’clock. That orange is picked up again by the wedge-like applied indices, and the funky recessed bracelet makes it feel so much like a NOS watch you could pick up on eBay.

Even though the cushion case is super chunky at 43.5mm wide, it’s only 46mm from lug-to-lug, making it quite compact even if it does fill out the wrist. This one doesn’t have a sapphire crystal, but it does still have 200 metres of water resistance with the same calibre F6922 that powers the Kamasu/Mako III. In addition to the plain stainless steel reference with its black and orange dial, there’s also a version in bronze PVD laden with rosy tones, and a limited edition in black and blue.

Orient Pilot

At 42.5mm in diameter and 49.5mm lug-to-lug, the Orient Pilot really embodies the spirit of the old type-B flieger watches. The reference RA-AC0H02N is particularly thrilling, with its black PVD coating and grained dial finish granting it some impeccable military vibes. It’s also surprisingly slender at just 11.6mm tall, especially considering the 100 metres of water resistance means that it’s swimmable with. The use of mineral glass is a little bit of a let-down, but at least the calibre F6722 is solid with that same 40 hours of power reserve and 21,600vph beat rate.

Orient Mako Chrono Solar

Among a catalogue of spec monsters, the Orient Mako Chrono Solar is pretty dazzling. For just a few hundred dollars, you can get a solar-powered chronograph with proper dive watch credibility, and a stunning panda dial. The movement is the Seiko VS75 counting minutes at 6, running seconds at 9, a 24-hour display at 3, and a date window tucked away at 4:30. Never needing to wind a watch is a good enough boon with quartz watches, and it’s even better knowing you’ll never need to change the battery. The 42.5mm diameter and 47.9mm lug-to-lug sizing is much appreciated from average wrists who appreciate strong presence, and there are also black and Pepsi colour variants out there if you don’t dig the black-on-white.

Orient Star Heritage Gothic

Orient Star is generally considered a small step above the regular Orient in quality and in price, but a lot of the designs tend to be a little bit inaccessible for most watch enthusiasts. There’s a lot of emphasis on open-heart dials that show off the escapement, and although that can be really exciting for new hobbyists, it can be seen as a bit tacky. That’s not the case for the Orient Star Heritage Gothic from its Classic Collection however, pulling retro inspiration from its 1950s roots as well as some modern touches for a clean and beautiful watch.

The dial’s Arabic numerals bear a slight resemblance to the IWC Portugieser or the general Bauhaus vibe of Nomos, while the 38.7mm case is a great compromise between vintage and contemporary flavours. There’s a power reserve below 12 o’clock signifying the calibre F6G42’s 50-hour power reserve, and a small seconds sub-dial is always going to be classy. This model does include a sapphire crystal on the front, with a mineral glass display caseback.