Rolex went a little crazy in 2023 – these were their top 5 most headline-snatching watches
Jamie WeissI love Rolex – as does any watch enthusiast worth their salt – but I think it’s funny how every year, Rolex comes out with a few subtle changes to the same designs they’ve been selling for decades, and everyone loses their minds, us journos included. However, in 2023, Rolex went sicko mode. Not only did they introduce an entirely new collection, the Perpetual 1908 (while simultaneously axing the Cellini and Milgauss ranges), but they also released some truly bonkers takes on two of their most staid watches – as well as a surprisingly substantial, considered, special-edition take on the Daytona.
Credit where credit’s due – Rolex did more than just introduce a new bezel colour or case diameter in 2023. Their releases weren’t just big news by Rolex standards, they were big news by anyone’s standards, and some stand out as some of the strangest and most arresting watches of the year that was. In fact, Zach even called Rolex as the brand that won 2023 – and even though Rolex arguably wins every year, 2023 was a more winning year than most for the Crown.
Rolex Day-Date 36 ‘Jigsaw’
Okay, let’s get it out of the way first. When I’m talking about bonkers or weird, I’m talking about the Rolex Day-Date ‘Jigsaw’. When I first saw this watch, my thought was “what the f*ck was Rolex smoking?” Not only does it feature a rainbow enamel dial that resembles the jigsaw pattern of a toddler’s play mat and rainbow-graduated sapphire indices, but its date wheel ditches numbers for 31 different emojis and the day wheel replaces days of the week with “inspirational keywords” like ‘Happy’, ‘Gratitude’, ‘Peace’ and ‘Love’.
For such a sober brand as Rolex, the Day-Date ‘Jigsaw’ is particularly gaga. But that’s what makes it so cool – on an academic level, at least. We can’t all whinge that we want to see Rolex do something different for once and then complain when we get what we ask for. It’s undeniably one of, if not the, biggest Rolex release of 2023, and it utterly dominated the social media conversation during Watches & Wonders last year.
| Brand | Rolex |
| Model | Day-Date 36 |
| Reference Number | 128235 (Everose gold) 128238 (yellow gold) 128239 (white gold) |
| Case Dimensions | 36mm (D) x 12mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k Everose/yellow/white gold |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Dial | Champlevé enamel with puzzle motif |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Bracelet | President bracelet matched to case metal with Crownclasp |
| Movement | Calibre 3255, in-house, automatic, Superlative Chronometer |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, inspirational quote, emoji |
| Availability | Off-catalogue |
| Price | Upon request |
Rolex Oyster Perpetual ‘Celebration Dial’
The Day-Date ‘Jigsaw’ might be the looniest watch Rolex released in 2023 (or ever), but the Oyster Perpetual ‘Celebration Dial’ is also no shrinking violet of a watch. Set against a turquoise lacquer backdrop, the bubbles take on the colours of the very popular Stella dial-inspired Oyster Perpetuals introduced in 2020. All the colours are there: green, orange, red, pink, and of course, that very particular shade of eggshell blue that everyone’s been obsessed with lately.
Compared with the out-and-out lunacy of the Jigsaw, the Celebration Dial is a little more sedate – but I think that’s part of its appeal. It’s a more focused form of fun; something the average Joe could get away with wearing. Like funky socks or a silly tie. While these are theoretically available now, the waitlists are unsurprisingly long (just like every model on this list to be fair) and secondary market prices aren’t anything worth celebrating…
| Brand | Rolex |
| Model | Oyster Perpetual |
| Reference Number | 277200 (OP 31) 126000 (OP 36) 124300 (OP 41) |
| Case Dimensions | 31mm (D) x 10.6mm (T) 36mm (D) x 11.6mm (T) 41mm (D) x 12mm (T) |
| Case Material | Oystersteel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal | Sapphire |
| Dial | Turquoise blue lacquer with celebration motif |
| Lug Width | 16mm (OP 31) 20mm (OP 36) 21mm (OP 41) |
| Bracelet | Oyster bracelet in Oystersteel |
| Movement | Calibre 2232 (OP 31) Calibre 3230 (OP 36, OP 41) in-house, automatic, Superlative Chronometer |
| Power Reserve | 55 hours (OP 31) 70 hours (OP 36, OP 41) |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | A$9,050 (OP 31) A$9,700 (OP 36) A$10,200 (OP 41) |
Rolex Perpetual 1908
While the Perpetual 1908’s design is utterly classic, its introduction represents a paradigm shift for Rolex, as it heralds the arrival of a third watch family for the brand, the Perpetual collection – alongside the Classic and Professional collections – and takes over from the previously moribund Cellini range, which has now been discontinued. I know we’ve just discussed two very radical watches but this actually passes for big news in Rolex world, so readjust your parameters.
Named in honour of the year that Hans Wilsdorf came up with the Rolex name and featuring design cues from some of the earliest Rolex watches, the 1908 is a stunning, dressy addition to Rolex’s repertoire that’s cleverly aimed at the Patek Philippe Calatravas and Vacheron Constantin Patrimonies of the world. It’s also the first Rolex (alongside the platinum Daytona also released in 2023) to feature an exhibition caseback in a whopping 92 years – and considering how pretty its Calibre 7140 movement is, that’s a very good thing.
| Brand | Rolex |
| Model | Perpetual 1908 |
| Reference Number | 52508 (yellow gold) 52509 (white gold) |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 9.5mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k yellow or white gold |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Matte white or black, applied numerals |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Black or brown alligator leather with green calfskin lining, yellow or white gold folding clasp |
| Movement | Calibre 7140, in-house, automatic, Superlative Chronometer |
| Power Reserve | 66 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | A$35,300 (yellow gold), A$37,300 (white gold) |
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 RLX Titanium
When the Deepsea Challenge dropped in late 2022, Rolex fans were excited not only because it was (and remains) the most water-resistant watch ever, rated to a whopping 11,000m – but because it was the first-ever Rolex to be made out of titanium. But at 50mm in diameter and priced at a hefty A$40,900, it’s not a very accessible watch. That’s why the 2023 reveal of a Yacht-Master in titanium was such a big deal.
Sure, it’s less water-resistant than the Tudor Pelagos (the first Rolex Group watch to be made from titanium) but it’s a lot classier… And some would say much more desirable. It also carves out a more distinct identity for the Yacht-Master compared to the Submariner, which I think is important.
| Brand | Rolex |
| Model | Yacht-Master 42 |
| Reference Number | 226627 |
| Case Dimensions | 42mm (D) x 11.6mm (T) |
| Case Material | RLX titanium, matte black Cerachrom bezel insert |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres, screw-down crown |
| Crystal | Sapphire with Cyclops lens |
| Dial | Matte black |
| Lug Width | 21mm |
| Strap | Oyster bracelet in RLX titanium |
| Movement | Calibre 3235, in-house, automatic, Superlative Chronometer |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, bidirectional timing bezel |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | A$22,600 |
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ‘Le Mans’
A rare special version of the Daytona created in honour of the 100th year of the 24 Hours of Le Mans, this unexpectedly innovative Daytona not only features unique nods to the endurance race but also pays homage to the now-legendary ref. 6239. Crafted from white gold and featuring a dial that pays homage to the famed Singer dials favoured by Paul Newman, the Daytona ‘Le Mans’ features the exclusive calibre 4132, which is a 24-hour chronograph rather than a 12-hour – it’s designed to time Le Mans. The tachymeter bezel also features a red ceramic inlay for the “100” numeral, and this is the second-ever Daytona to feature an exhibition caseback (after the platinum Daytona I mentioned earlier).
The Daytona is already arguably the most coveted watch in the world, and this new Le Mans Daytona might just be the most desirable modern Daytona of them all. Again, it’s a pleasure to see Rolex do something a little bit different; go above and beyond to create something that’s properly special.
| Brand | Rolex |
| Model | Cosmograph Daytona |
| Reference Number | 126529LN |
| Case Dimensions | 40mm (D) x 11.9mm (T) |
| Case Material | 18k white gold |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres, screw-down crown and pushers |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front and back |
| Dial | Sunburst black with intense white snailed counters, black monobloc Cerachrom bezel |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Oyster bracelet in white gold |
| Movement | Calibre 4132, in-house, automatic, Superlative Chronometer, exclusive to this model |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, running small seconds, 24-hour chronograph, tachymeter bezel |
| Availability | Available now |
| Price | A$82,400 |