Every Cartier release of Watches & Wonders 2024 – including the Tortue Monopoussoir and a new Santos complication
Borna BošnjakIt’s finally that time of year when brands unveil most of their new releases for the year, and Cartier is one of those rare brands that get everyone at the T+T offices truly excited. Whether it’s a dainty gem-set creation, a sporty take on an icon, or a suave IYKYK stunner, there’s something for everyone – and I think I may already have my favourite watch of the fair sorted. Having said that, there are quite a few to pick from, as it tends to go with Cartier, so let’s get into all the releases.
Privé Tortue Monopoussoir
- Reviving the famous Tortue Monopoussoir of the late ’90s that featured the famous Journe-Flageollet-Halter movement.
- Available in either platinum or yellow gold, the new Privé Tortue Monopoussoir aims to enhance dial legibility and features a new monopusher chronograph movement measuring only 4.3mm in height.
- Limited to 200 pieces per metal, it wouldn’t surprise anyone to see it sell out very quickly, though we’ll need to wait and see whether it can capture the IYKYK fanbase like its predecessor.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Privé Tortue Monopoussoir Chronograph Watch |
| Case Dimensions | 34.8mm (W) x 10.2mm (T) x 43.7mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | 18k yellow gold Platinum |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal front and caseback |
| Dial | Grained gold Silvered opaline |
| Bracelet | Dark blue alligator leather, yellow gold pin buckle Red alligator leather, platinum pin buckle |
| Movement | 1928 MC, in-house, manually wound chronograph |
| Power Reserve | TBC |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, monopusher chronograph |
| Availability | 200 pieces in each metal |
| Price | TBC |
Privé Tortue
- Though no Cartier Privé watch is ordinary, the non-chronograph Privé Tortue brings a slimmer profile to the understated, 1912-inspired design.
- The Breguet (or apple, according to Cartier) handset fits right into the early periods of the wristwatch that inspire this Tortue, as do the Roman numeral dials and slender, precious-metal cases.
- The three new models are all powered by the 430 MC, a manually winding calibre based on the Piaget 430P that’s only 2.1mm in height in its round variant.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Privé Tortue |
| Case Dimensions | 32.9mm (W) x 7.2mm (T) x 41.4mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Platinum, diamonds Platinum Yellow gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Silvered opaline or grained gold |
| Bracelet | Burgundy or blue alligator leather, case-matching pin buckle |
| Movement | 430 MC, Piaget 430P base, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | Gem-set platinum model limited to 50 pieces Platinum and yellow gold models limited to 200 pieces |
| Price | TBC |
Santos de Cartier Dual Time
- The Santos de Cartier heads in a decidedly sporty direction, aiming to become the go-to jet-setter’s watch with its new Dual Time complication.
- Neatly integrated at 6 o’clock, the second time zone and day/night indicator combine with a subtle anthracite dial to look like any regular Santos. The matched day wheel is a nice touch.
- Cartier hasn’t provided any details of the new movement yet, though it’s likely to be a modular addition to the base 1847 MC movement.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Santos de Cartier Dual Time |
| Case Dimensions | 40.2mm (D) x 10.1mm (T) x 47.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Anthracite grey sunburst |
| Bracelet | Steel bracelet and anthracite grey alligator strap, folding clasp, QuickSwitch system |
| Movement | Automatic, details TBC |
| Power Reserve | TBC |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date, dual time, day/night indicator |
| Availability | TBC |
| Price | TBC |
Santos de Cartier
- Alongside the Dual Time, the three-handed Santos de Cartier range expands with new colourways, most notably a delicious pair of chocolate browns.
- Two Large models are presented, in two-tone with a grey dial, and the aforementioned brown, while the third is a Medium.
- Powered by the 1847 MC, I have no doubt that these will be as popular as the green Santos was upon its release.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Santos de Cartier Large Santos de Cartier Medium |
| Case Dimensions | 39.8mm (W) x 9.4mm (T) x 47.5mm (LTL) (Large) 35.1mm (W) x 8.8mm (T) x 41.9mm (LTL) (Medium) |
| Case Material | Yellow gold and stainless steel (Large) Stainless steel (Large and Medium) |
| Water Resistance | 100 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Grey sunburst, brown sunburst |
| Bracelet | Steel bracelet and dial-matching alligator leather strap, steel folding buckle, QuickSwitch system |
| Movement | 1847 MC, in-house, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 42 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, date (Large) Hours, minutes, seconds (Medium) |
| Availability | Regular-production models |
| Price | TBC |
Santos-Dumont Rewind
- For a brand that takes itself as seriously as Cartier, the Santos-Dumont Rewind is an unexpected breath of fresh air, sporting a backwards-running, manually wound movement.
- Taking the form of the 31.5mm Santos-Dumont, the dial’s backwards Roman numerals will surely take a while for people to get used to, though I’ve no doubt the 200-piece run will quickly sell out and become highly sought-after on the secondary market.
- Details about the 230 MC are again sparse, but I’m fully expecting it to just be a reversed 430 MC that’s in the rest of the manually wound Santos-Dumont range.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Santos-Dumont Rewind |
| Case Dimensions | 31.5mm (D) x 7.3mm (T) x 43.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Platinum |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Carnelian red sunburst |
| Bracelet | Red alligator leather, platinum pin buckle |
| Movement | 230 MC, manual winding, reversed |
| Power Reserve | TBC |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | 200 pieces |
| Price | TBC |
Santos-Dumont Lacquer
- Speaking of the Santos-Dumont, Cartier is also releasing a fresh new trio of lacquered models, with two non-limited editions entering the fray alongside a green, platinum-cased LE.
- All three opt for Arabic numerals instead of the Romans found on their predecessors, otherwise identical in case size.
- Manually wound, with a 38-hour power reserve, the ultra-thin 430 MC is based on the Piaget 430P.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Santos-Dumont |
| Case Dimensions | 31.5mm (D) x 7.3mm (T) x 43.5mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Platinum 18k yellow gold 18k rose gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Olive green (platinum) Taupe grey (yellow gold) Peacock blue (rose gold) |
| Bracelet | Dial-matching alligator leather strap with case-matching ardillon buckle |
| Movement | 430 MC, Piaget 430P base, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 38 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | Platinum limited to 200 pieces Yellow gold and rose gold are regular production |
| Price | TBC |
Reflection de Cartier
- The Reflection de Cartier marks our entry into the brand’s jewellery like creations for the year, described by Cartier’s Marie-Laure Cérède as a “veritable sculpture to wear on the wrist”.
- The four models are naturally available in highly bejewelled variants, but the coolest thing about them is the highly polished surface facing the dial that offers a distortion-free reflection.
- Combining multiple setting techniques of the diamonds, opal, amethysts, garnets and other gemstones, the Reflection collection is making the most of the resurgence of the small, blingy piece.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Reflection de Cartier |
| Case Dimensions | 18.4mm (W) x 9.9mm (T) x 17.5mm (H) |
| Case Material | 18k white gold, optional gem-setting 18k rose gold 18k yellow gold |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | 18k white gold Sandblasted silver |
| Bracelet | 18k white gold, optional gem-setting 18k rose gold 18k yellow gold |
| Movement | Quartz |
| Power Reserve | TBC |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | TBC |
| Price | POA |
Animal Jewellery Watch
- With a softly squared dial aperture reminiscent to that of the Pebble, the Animal Jewellery Watch continue the tradition started by the first watch inspired by the panther from 1914.
- For 2024, Cartier combines inspiration from the zebra and the crocodile to create the swirling pattern surrounding the fully gem-set cases.
- The quartz-powered collection is available in rose, yellow or white gold, with ruby, garnet, spinel and diamond setting.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Animal Jewellery Watch |
| Case Dimensions | TBC |
| Case Material | 18k rose gold, white gold or yellow gold, gem-set |
| Water Resistance | N/A |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | 18k rose gold, white gold or yellow gold, gem-set |
| Bracelet | Black calfskin and black/blue alligator leather, case-matching ardillon buckle |
| Movement | Quartz |
| Power Reserve | TBC |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | TBC |
| Price | POA |
Panther Jewellery Watch
- Even more obvious in regards to its inspiration is the Panther Jewellery Watch, bringing Cartier’s signature beast to more haute joaillerie pieces.
- If the “subtle” sapphire and emerald setting isn’t quite enough bling, you can also opt for some rhodolite and spessartite garnets on top of the onyx and diamonds, along with a complex enamel dial.
- It may be hard to discern due to the gem setting, but both of these watches come with white gold cases.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Panther Jewellery Watch |
| Case Dimensions | TBC |
| Case Material | 18k white gold, diamonds and sapphires 18k white gold, rhodolite and spessartite garnets, onyx, and yellow and white diamonds |
| Water Resistance | N/A |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | 18k white gold, set with diamonds and sapphires Enamel motif |
| Bracelet | 18k white gold, gem-set Iridescent purple and brown calfskin, ardillon buckle |
| Movement | Quartz |
| Power Reserve | TBC |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | TBC |
| Price | POA |
Crocodile Jewellery Watch
- The Crocodile Jewellery Watch plays even more into the inspiration for the Animal Jewellery, with more distinct crocodilian features, and more gems, naturally.
- Wrapping around the pebble-shaped case, Cartier’s crocs are rendered in tourmalines, sapphires, emeralds, mother-of-pearl, and diamonds.
- Alongside the gems, the cases are finished with gradient enamel continuing outwards from 2 o’clock on the dial.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Crocodile Jewellery Watch |
| Case Dimensions | TBC |
| Case Material | 18k white gold, emeralds and diamonds 18k white gold, tourmalines, emeralds, mother-of-pearl, sapphires, diamonds |
| Water Resistance | N/A |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Sunray silver with emerald hour marker 18k white gold, tourmalines, emeralds, mother-of-pearl, sapphires, diamonds |
| Bracelet | 18k white gold, gem-set 18k white gold, gem-set or alligator leather |
| Movement | Quartz |
| Power Reserve | TBC |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | TBC |
| Price | POA |
Tiger Jewellery Watch
- Just like the Crocodile, the Tiger Jewellery Watch incorporates the feline’s head as if presenting the watch in its jaws.
- The stripes contrast against a white gold and yellow and orange sapphire base with black spinels.
- “These new designs enrich the Cartier bestiary in watchmaking, whether figurative or abstract, real or imaginary, they translate a natural beauty”, explaints Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s Director of Heritage, Image, and Style.
| Brand | Cartier |
| Model | Tiger Jewellery Watch |
| Case Dimensions | TBC |
| Case Material | 18k white gold, set with black spinels, garnets, yellow and orange sapphires, diamonds |
| Water Resistance | N/A |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire front |
| Dial | Sunray brushed gold, diamond hour marker |
| Bracelet | 18k white gold, set with black spinels, garnets, yellow and orange sapphires, diamonds |
| Movement | Quartz |
| Power Reserve | TBC |
| Functions | Hours, minutes |
| Availability | TBC |
| Price | POA |