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Credor: A history of the Seiko Corporation’s most enigmatic brand and its defining characteristics

Credor: A history of the Seiko Corporation’s most enigmatic brand and its defining characteristics

Zach Blass

For those outside of Japan, the Credor brand is quite an enigma. Most watch-intrigued individuals are likely aware that Credor is tied to the Seiko Corporation in some way and that Credor watches sell at a dizzying range of price points. Beyond that, it is quite a mystery for most. So let’s run through some Credor history – the origin of the brand, its ethos and distinct defining characteristics, and where it stands currently.

Seiko Credor Sonnerie GBLQ998 with spring drive.

What does the Credor name mean? When was it founded?

Seiko 1974 catalogue Credor
1974 Seiko Catalogue Vol 2. Image courtesy of Plus9Time

The name Credor comes from the French “crête d’or” meaning “pinnacle of gold”, and it was founded in 1974. True to its name, Credor watches were originally crafted only in precious metals and were described to be fabricated by Seiko’s pinnacle master craftsmen. The branding was initially very discrete in that the dials were branded “Seiko” but the watches were a part of its “Crêt D’or” collection. The next evolution of Credor watches would then be branded “Seiko Quartz”.

1980 Credor Catalog Vol 2
1980 Credor Catalogue Vol 2. Image courtesy of Plus9Time

The Credor name and “Golden Peak” logo was eventually put on the dial instead of the Seiko logo mark beginning in 1980, with Credor/Seiko co-branding beginning in 1979. The logo is meant to embody a mountain, which represents the peak or top of watchmaking. The three stars found at the top of the logo are representative of the three main tenets of Credor. Firstly, to create original designs that take advantage of Japanese sensitivity and aesthetic sense such as delicacy, precision, and attention. Secondly, technology through the realisation of precise manufacturing, which makes full use of cutting-edge and advanced design and manufacturing technologies. Lastly, handing down the pinnacle of artisanal craftsmanship and watchmaking skills cultivated in Seiko’s history of more than 130 years.

The Credor design ethos and limited marketplace

Watchmaker working on movement.

Part of the mystery of the brand is explained by the fact that these watches were not only truly inspired by and designed for the Japanese marketplace, but also largely sold only in the Japanese domestic market. This is not to say it was impossible to buy Credor abroad, but it did require an effort (and usually still does) to hunt for these watches with an uncompromising, 100% Japanese-inspired aesthetic. There was no strategy to try to sell the watches abroad. Therefore Credors were not necessarily designed to meet the tastes of other marketplaces, but rather dedicated interpretations of Japanese culture or reinterpretations of artistic muses for Japanese sensibilities, in precious metal with classic case dimensions and profiles. Whereas Grand Seiko’s Grammar of Design emphasises precision and practical beauty, Credor was born as a foil to Grand Seiko, with an emphasis on elegance, ultra-thin watchmaking, and high-end artistic craft.

Credor Locomotive Sketch
The original Credor Locomotive from 1979.

An early example of Credor turning to muses or minds abroad to help create a product for its market was when the brand would turn to none other than Gérald Genta. Debuting in 1979, the Locomotive was a mix of Italian, Swiss, and Japanese sensibility – an exception to the largely pure Japanese ethos.

Credor’s pursuit of ultra-thin

Credor 68 series movement
A Credor 68-series movement.

Although precision as an element is not entirely omitted as a focus for the brand in its marketing, I would not describe it as a strength of the brand within its mechanical segment. In fairness, the brand was born with a range of quartz-driven watches which are innately more accurate. But Credor’s mechanical movements are regulated to the same extent and accuracy as basic Seiko models.

Seiko 9A85 quartz
This Seiko 9A85 movement is just 0.85mm thick! Image courtesy of Plus9Time

While less accurate than other movements within the group, often regulated within +25/-10 seconds per day, they are in fact some of the thinnest Seiko calibres. According to Credor’s website, its Caliber 68 series movements start at only 1.98mm thick (among the thinnest mechanical movements in the world), with each of the parts cut in 1/100mm units and finely decorated to a high standard. Credor’s quartz calibre 6720, on the other hand, introduced in 1980, is to this day the second thinnest quartz movement ever made at just 0.89mm thick while also offering high accuracy. Seiko’s 9A85 barely beats it at 0.85mm thick.

Seiko SBWA001 Credor GBLG999 Spring Drive Front
Left: Seiko SBWA001. Right: Credor GBLG999 (Image courtesy of Reddit u/Brs_17)

In 1999, Seiko’s Spring Drive technology debuted in two Seiko watches, a sporty stainless steel SBWA001 and a more dressy yellow gold SBWA002. Alongside this pair at launch was a third watch from Credor: the GBLG999 in platinum. Grand Seiko would go on to debut its first 9R-series Spring Drive movements in 2004, as the brand demanded a movement beyond the original, 48-hour, manually-wound 7RX with a 72-hour automatic 9R65 that lived up to the Grand Seiko standard.

Seiko SBWA001 Credor GBLG999 Spring Drive Back
Left: Seiko SBWA001. Right: Credor GBLG999 (Image courtesy of Reddit u/Brs_17)

Credor, however, would continue to use these 7R-series movements due to its greater emphasis on thinner watches. In fact, it was expanded to even include a moonphase complication. Showing how Seiko and Credor had explored classic complications far earlier than Grand Seiko, who has only recently entered this realm.

This goes to show that while Credor does use accurate movements in certain instances, it ultimately prioritises thin and sleek dimensions. To be fair, as I mentioned earlier, its quartz and Spring Drive movements are highly accurate and beyond the standards of many Swiss companies, and ultra-thin movements are inherently less robust and harder to regulate. Where Credor movement regulation may be lacking, its finishing of dials and calibres takes things to another level.

Credor as a playground for artistic crafts and complication

Credor GBBY983 front and back
The front and back of the Credor GBBY983 Piece Unique (price: €360,000)

Grand Seiko is well-known for its stunning variety of dials, but they must be balanced with Grand Seiko’s requisite level of legibility. Credor, however, is less restricted. By no means is Credor known for making illegible dials, but with fewer restrictions, it’s able to take things even further. Case in point, Credor’s 2022 creation, the GBBY983, is something Grand Seiko would never be able to justify within its Grammar of Design. A stunning horological piece unique of art, the platinum watch has a hand-engraved white gold dial that is referred to by Credor as a turntable. In contrast, there are also hand-engraved yellow gold butterflies that, when the crown is rotated, will subtly flap their wings while the dial spins around. The reverse side is also finely decorated, exhibiting a magnificently hand-engraved 6890 calibre.

With the dial’s lack of clear hour indices, time reading is obviously somewhat hindered, but with the brand’s pursuit of artistic craft over legibility and precision, Credor has the freedom to make such watches while Grand Seiko cannot. Keep in mind though, Grand Seiko has notoriously struggled to keep its watches thin at times. This piece unique, with all the depth and engineering required, clocks in at 38mm in diameter, 11mm thick, and 45.4mm lug-to-lug. Incredible.

Credor Fugaku tourbillon GBCC999 front and back

Credor’s 2016 creation, the Fugaku Tourbillon Limited Edition, demonstrates how the brand stands apart within the group, not only in its artistic crafts, but also its exploration of complications. In fact, the GBCC999 was the Seiko Corporation’s first-ever tourbillon watch. The GPHG-nominated piece is housed in a 43mm platinum case that is only 8.8mm thick, living up to Credor’s prioritisation of thinner watches, and this is due to the fact its calibre is based on the 68 series mentioned earlier.

“The Fugaku Tourbillion Limited Edition is a masterpiece created by the diverse skills of three of Seiko’s most experienced craftsmen, all of whom have been recognised as Contemporary Master Craftsmen by the government of Japan,” Seiko explained upon its announcement. “The tourbillon movement, calibre 6830, is less than 4mm thick and is made and assembled by Satoshi Hiraga. Kiyoshi Terui is the engraver, and the overall design, including the integration of the tourbillon, metal engraving, and lacquer work, was entrusted to Nobuhiro Kosugi, the first watch designer to be selected as a Master Craftsman. Urushi expert Isshu Tamura contributes the lacquer finish. Together, their skills and advanced techniques have yielded a work of art that expresses the essence of the Japanese sense of beauty.”

Another Credor masterpiece that boasts a high complication no other Seiko Corporation brand has tackled is its minute repeater. And not only is it a minute repeater, but a Spring Drive minute repeater that has the added advantage of a silent movement that does not disturb the pleasure of the chime. Its 7R11 calibre is hand-bevelled to the highest standard, and even includes interior angle anglage.

Two Credor Eichi II watches, one in original platinum and aonther in 18k rose gold.
The Credor Eichi II in its original platinum and 18k rose gold configurations.

But not all artistic craft-exhibiting watches from Credor are beyond six figures, nor are they always super complicated. At the five-figure tier, you have the Credor Eichi II. Arguably the watch that put Credor on the map internationally, its appearance could not be more clean and simple. A deceptively complex watch, its dial is made of porcelain, and all of the text and indices are painstakingly hand-painted.

Credor Eichi II 3
The Credor Eichi II 7R14 movement.

Its 7R14 Spring Drive calibre reveals its further high-craftsmanship, with Dufour-level decoration given a Japanese sensibility – hand-performed with Gentian wood. The bellflower of Shiojiri, where the Micro Artist Studio is located, and serves as the calibre’s motif and muse, most notably in the openworked, bevelled barrel. The bridges are finely hand-bevelled as well – their curves and cutouts meant to represent the stem and petals of the flower.

credor raden dial gcbe993
Credor GCBE993 “Raden Dial”.

This level of handcraft also extends to Credor watches below US$10,000, the now discontinued GCBE993 “Raden Dial” a great example. A stainless steel watch, 37mm across, with compact tapered lugs, and only 6.5mm thick, whose dial is clearly the star of the show. The eye is first drawn to the applied pattern of mother-of-pearl flakes around the small seconds indication, representing the spaciousness of the stars flowing in vast skies on its black urushi lacquer backdrop. To top things off, at the 3, 9, and 12 o’clock positions, you have hour indices applied with the “Raden” technique. This Japanese decorative technique entails delicate inlay materials to be placed on the dial, that are then covered with several layers of lacquer. The remaining markers, however, are not applied. They are hand-painted with platinum-powdered Maki-e. Yes, you read that correctly despite being a watch that retailed under US$10,000 and can be found on the secondary market for under US$10,000 as well.

The Credor brand today

Credor Locomotive Limited Edition 24 on wrist.
Credor Locomotive 2024 Limited Edition

The above examples are just a small fraction of the expansive Credor catalogue. The issue is, only a small fraction of Credors make their way abroad, whether that’s literally or even via media channels. While Credor originally focused solely on precious metal watches, the brand also incorporates stainless steel in its collections – and even titanium with its revival of the Locomotive for Credor’s 50th anniversary this year. With surging interest in the brand, Credor is beginning to be better about communicating internationally, and has slightly increased the availability of its watches abroad – but only for select pieces. For the rest, you’ll still need to head over to Japan. Hopefully, this international push will expand further. Credor has debuted an English language version of its website just this year – albeit with a limited number of watches listed, as I suspect it will remain primarily Japanese Domestic Market-focused. More incentive to travel to Japan, though.