The big dogs and the underdogs from Christie’s The Collectibles Part 2
Borna BošnjakWhile I’m not one to peruse auction house sites all too often (I’m more partial to the quick-and-dirty eBay bidding war), every once in a while, a couple of the lots do catch my eye. This was exactly the case when it comes to Christie’s Important Watches: Featuring the Collectibles Part 2 auction set to go live at the end of October. But it wasn’t just the record-breaking Pateks and Rolexes that drew my eye. As a matter of fact, it was the underdogs that really attracted me to check out the auction in more depth. That being said, the top lots are not to be missed, either.
Patek Philippe ref. 1518 “FAB. SUISSE”
Pretty much any Patek Philippe ref. 1518 would be a contender for a headlining auction lot, but when it’s a possibly unique pink gold model, it’s beyond doubt. Other than just being one of the most beautiful watches ever made, the ref. 1518 was the first perpetual calendar chronograph wristwatch, entering production alongside the ref. 1526 and counting only 281 examples. It uses a Patek-modified Valjoux 13 calibre, and set the scene for other legendary pieces like the references 2499, 3970, and 5970. This particular example is among the most special, being one of only 46 identified in pink gold, and the only known surviving one with “FAB. SUISSE” on the dial. Christie’s naturally provides a detailed breakdown of its provenance in its notes, but best believe you’ll be paying for the privilege of owning a piece like this. Like, a lot.
Estimate: HK$16,000,000 – HK$32,000,000 (~US$2,060,000 – US$4,120,000)
Rolex Deepsea Special no. 31
No better watch to potentially stir the horological waters than a Rolex Deep Sea Special. These bulbous divers were made starting in 1953 to accompany humanity’s attempts at reaching the deepest point in the ocean. Naturally, Rolex would join in on the expedition, given that the brand also tried their best to tie itself to the first ascent of Mount Everest. While there’s much controversy around early, prototype Deep Sea Specials, the No. 31 offered by Christie’s is one of the commemorative pieces produced after the record-breaking January 1960 dive to mark the occasion. While it perhaps doesn’t have the provenance of the No. 3 that actually accompanied the Trieste to the bottom of the Mariana Trench, this commemorative Deep Sea Special comes from a private collection and in what seems to be pristine condition.
Estimate: HK$5,000,000 – HK$10,000,000 (~US$644,000 – US$1,290,000)
F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance with brass movement
We leap forward a few decades for the last big dog on the list, to the turn of the millennium, and F.P. Journe’s Chronomètre à Résonance. Now, you’ll notice that I’ve mentioned this watch’s brass movement in the title, but what’s the big deal? Many watches have movement components made of brass. Well, that’s not the case (anymore) if you’re F.P. Journe, as the Geneva-based French watchmaker is famous for using solid gold for the construction of his movements. This is yet another example of watch collectors drooling over what’s rare more than the objectively valuable, but I’m not one to talk, as I’m fully on board. This isn’t just one of the 2,000-or-so brass Journes in existence, however – this is a Chronomètre à Résonance. While Journe is famous for his tourbillon escapades, he’s also the only watchmaker to have successfully harnessed the resonance phenomenon without connected oscillators – something I go into a lot more depth. In a nutshell, this watch embodies the legacy of all-time greats like Breguet, and is an undisputed modern icon.
Estimate: HK$1,400,000 – HK$2,800,000 (~US$180,000 – US$360,000)
A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 20th anniversary set no. 15/20
Our first underdog is actually a duo of watches, courtesy of A. Lange & Söhne, and very topical considering we’re in another Lange 1 anniversary year. This pair of Lange 1s is a 20th anniversary pair that was released in 2015, and numbered 15/20. The release was the brand’s headliner at Watches & Wonders Hong Kong 2014, and is one of five two-piece sets introduced to celebrate the iconic model’s birthday. The pair consists of a 38.5mm Lange 1 and 36.1mm Little Lange 1, both with solid gold hand-guilloché dials, while the latter is also set with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds. Both are powered by the L901.0 calibre, itself the first-ever movement featured in the Lange 1, and using a JLC 822 going train. Having said that, the watches are not actually offered as a single lot, but rather separated into three – one for each watch, and the third for the two-slot box. I can only hope that they find a home with a single collector.
Estimates: HK$500,000 – HK$1,000,000 (Lange 1), HK$320,000 – HK$640,00 (Little Lange 1), HK$4,000 – HK$8,000 (presentation box)
Ulysse Nardin Freak ref. 010-88
A watch that continuously fails to get the praise it deserves from the wider watch-collecting community is the Ulysse Nardin Freak. Not only is it an actually unique proposition and original design (a rarity in today’s market), it was also revolutionary for its escapement design and use of silicon – Buffy delves much deeper into the Freak’s history than I will. What’s on offer at Christie’s is the very first Freak generation, housed in a 43mm white gold case numbered 193. Envisioned by Carole Forestier-Kasapi and brought to life by Ludwig Oechslin, using the latter’s Dual Direct escapement with twin silicon escape wheels, most of which would later be replaced by the upgraded Dual Ulysse escapement. This particular Freak features the Dual Ulysse escapement noticeable for the particular tooth shape of the dual escape wheels, even though the caseback still reads “Dual Direct Escapement”. It’s these little tidbits of horohistory that make a difference for the biggest nerds out there, myself included. Estimate: HK$110,000 – HK$160,000 (~US$14,100 – US$20,600)
Audemars Piguet C19393
How does a solid gold, gem-set (with sapphire indices), hand-skeletonised Audemars Piguet dress watch for US$10,000 sound? Well, sounds pretty good to me, if the estimate proves to be true. While its lack of integrated bracelet doesn’t quite fit the ultimate “geezer watch” description (if I’m getting that term correctly), the 26mm case makes it perfectly proportioned for those who want just enough bling that’s backed by plentiful substance. And that substance comes in form of the hand-skeletonised, 1.64mm-thick Calibre 2003SQ that Audemars Piguet extensively used since the 1950s, all the way into the mid-noughties. Being the SQ variant, it means that the movement bridges are made from 14k gold, and AP quotes nearly a full working week needed to fully and properly openwork the LeCoultre ébauche. Estimate: HK$40,000 – HK$80,000 (~US$5,200 – US$10,300)