8 of the best two-tone watches, because things were better in the ’80s

Borna Bošnjak

Solid gold watches aren’t the most practical at the best of times, even if you’ve got enough swagger to pull one off. If you still want a bit of golden sheen on your wrist, a two-tone watch seems like a no-brainer alternative. The trend of mixing metal colours goes back a century, all the way back to the Roaring Twenties, though back then, the cases most often combined different tones of gold rather than gold and steel. Likely for its improved toughness and lesser cost, steel eventually began to displace white gold, with the true boom of two-tone watches coming in the 1980s. I’m sure you can picture it – Madonna’s Material Girl playing on MTV, while a businessman with slicked-back hair speaks on his brick-like Motorola, a two-tone Datejust peeking out underneath the cuffs of his baggy power suit. Just like any other trend, however, the popularity of two-tone watches eventually waned, though it never fully died. With a few strong two-tone releases in recent times, perhaps it’s time for them to come back?

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80

Though the architectural, sharp shapes of early integrated-bracelet watches mellowed a bit by the time the ’80s rolled around, the trend was still  in full swing. While the PRX takes its inspiration from a 1970s Seastar, I can easily picture Tissot capitalising on the two-tone idea even back then. These days, there’s little we have to add about the PRX. If you have spent the last few years under a horological rock, this Tissot model was all the rage during the pandemic years. The 40mm x 10.8mm case and waffle-stamped dial continue to be a solid, entry-level Swiss choice for those into the look, and the subtle PVD gold bezel that matches the hands and indices in tone gives just enough bling without being overly gaudy. Price: US$725, A$1,195 from the Time+Tide Shop

 

Cartier Santos de Cartier

Other than being able to boast about producing one of the first wristwatches ever, and certainly the first pilot’s watch, the Cartier Santos also looks damn good in two-tone. Since the introduction of the Santos to the market in 1911, the shape has changed drastically the latest Santos de Cartier models quite different from the Santos-Dumont line more closely representing the original. With its almost brutish bezel that flows into that, dare I say iconic, bracelet, where their finishes flip. The yellow gold bezel is screwed down with steel screws, while the steel links of the bracelet are secured with gold screws. The look is unmistakable, and not even a passing fad of the ’80s could interrupt its timelessness. Price: US$10,600

Rolex Datejust 36

To nobody’s surprise, the Rolex Datejust makes this list. Arguably the two-tone watch, the Datejust has made it through the decades as one of the most timeless pieces in the Rolex catalogue. There are multiple sizes available, but it’s the 36mm variant that embodies the two-tone Datejust best – and while I’ll let it slide if you choose the Oyster over the Jubilee, going with a smooth bezel is pretty much unforgivable. Price: starting from US$15,000

Bulgari Serpenti Tadao Ando

While this list primarily concerns itself with the best two-tone watches currently available, it shows that good design usually stays good, no matter the colour. Just like the Santos and Datejust, the Bulgari Serpenti has become the brand’s signature, with its slinky tubogas bracelet rendered in stunning rose gold and steel. The pink mother-of-pearl dial is the work of Japanese architect Tadao Ando, for his first Bulgari collaboration that steps outside of Octo Finissimo margins. Price: US$16,400

Zenith Chronomaster Sport Two Tone

After introducing a much sportier take on an El Primero-driven chronograph during the height of the sports chronograph craze, Zenith unveiled this two-tone variant a year later. The success came as a surprise even to Zenith Chief Products Officer Romain Marietta: “We knew it would be big, but not this big”. The Chronomaster Sport Two Tone and its tricolour sub-dials and warm tones of rose gold make the instantly recognisable look of the El Primero into a contemporary sports chronograph, sized at 41mm in diameter, and powered by the high-beat El Primero 3600. Price: US$17,500

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Bi-colour

Omega has paid plenty of attention to the Speedmaster recently, introducing refreshed variants across the board, including a new Apollo 8, Automatic 38, and of course, the white-dialled Moonwatch. Ramping up for the Olympics, the Speedmaster release train continues with this bi-colour duo, following a gold medal-inspired Chronoscope. It might be cheating a little, but I honestly couldn’t pick between them, so I thought I’d include both. The recipe is based on the latest iteration of the familiar Moonwatch, and Omega is clearly making the most of the improved bracelet design, with an awesome mix of brushing and polishing of the gold centre links. Price: US$18,100

Louis Vuitton Tambour Two-Tone

The Tambour was a divisive release, some lauding the brand for taking the step in a more compelling direction, while others are still not able to separate Louis Vuitton from its fashion origins. Personally, I don’t think the two need to be a detriment to each other, especially seeing how much capital Louis Vuitton has been investing in legitimising itself as a watchmaker. The steel models took the fairest share of fanfare, but it was the precious metal pieces that really caught my eye, especially this two-tone model. Rose gold is integrated sparingly, just enough to highlight the lines of the case and sector dial, while a Cercle des Horlogers-derived micro-rotor movement beats in the back. Price: US$27,500

T+T Timeless Pick: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 25829TA

Over the years, it seems like the established idea behind two-tone watches is combining smaller bits of gold with larger bits of steel for improved durability and a lower cost. As the brand so often does, Audemars Piguet chose to not really follow that convention, and the resulting example was something like this ref. 25829TA. Audemars Piguet has a long-documented history of fabulous perpetual calendars, so having a skeletonised one with a case in rose gold and tantalum is perhaps the brand at its very best. The grey-blue metal is known for its unique colour, near-platinum heft, and its habit of making swift work of CNC machine drill bits. Sure, AP made other tantalum and gold Royal Oaks like the 56175TR, 14486TR, and 14790TR – but it needs to beat out something like a vintage GMT-Master Root Beer for the T+T Timeless Pick, so it could only ever be this. Sold in 2021 for US$187,500.