The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveller One Black is a modern, monochromatic take on a world timer

Jamie Weiss

I really like world time watches. I like them for the same reasons I like GMT watches – I think there’s something both romantic and practical about being able to track the time in different time zones – but world timers dial the classiness up a level. Like minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, it’s a complication that’s commonly associated with haute horlogerie: there’s just something old-worldly about a world timer, like spinning an old-fashioned globe. Yet that’s what makes the Chopard L.U.C Time Traveller One Black so interesting. It’s a classic world timer, from one of the most refined watchmakers on the market – yet it has a compelling modern edge thanks to an edgy monochromatic colour scheme and a sleek ceramised titanium case. I had the chance to wear one for a week and see why some consider this Chopard’s most interesting watches in recent memory.

A quick note on the strap

For my review, I wore the Chopard L.U.C Time Traveller One Black on a grey Artem HydroFlex strap. The Time Traveller One Black is a modern world timer, so putting it on a modern hybrid FKM rubber strap seemed appropriate – and the grey colour of the strap matched the watch’s monochromatic vibe perfectly.

Old school meets new school

Just as I love world timers for their combination of tradition and practicality, the watches that tend to excite me most are those that juxtapose traditional design cues with ultra-modern touches, like the A. Lange & Söhne Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen or the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Everest. The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveller One Black has a similar vibe: here you have a world timer in a classic L.U.C case, with stepped bezels and lugs, and a dial detailed with early 20th-century hand-applied numerals and lettering. Yet, it’s made from ceramised titanium and boasts an almost Gothic monochromatic look. It’s minimalist and maximalist all at once.

Chopard claims that it’s actually “the world’s first travel watch made of ceramised titanium”, which is a very tool watch material, being exceptionally light-weight and scratch-resistant. On the wrist, it has a unique texture: it’s glossier than your typical sandblasted grade 5 titanium, yet it remains somewhat matte. It’s very cool, and I meant that literally – it’s simply breezy to wear.

Is it hard to read?

World timers are inherently intricate complications: they display a lot of information, and consequently, their dials can often be a bit confusing to look at. Throw additional complications into the mix (like a date hand) and things can get even more distracting. Being monochromatic, you’d also rightfully assume that the Time Traveller One Black makes things even harder.

But here’s the thing, it actually doesn’t. The novel concentric design is actually pretty easy to wrap your head around, helped by the fact that Chopard has alternated not only between shades of grey for the different rings but also alternated finishes. The outer city and second time zone ring feature galvanic finishes, while the local time ring is azuraged, and the inner dial segment is vertically brushed. This mix of finishes also provides plenty of visual interest, too.

True, it might not be as instantly legible as more classic world timer designs, but it’s hardly difficult to use. I also appreciate that they went for a date hand rather than a date window, as a date window would’ve compromised both its legibility and symmetry. Something I never realised about this watch as well is that the numerals and hour markers are actually luminescent, so it’s even easy to read at night (at least the local time is, good luck reading time in another city). The compressor-style design also makes it exceedingly easy to adjust. The satisfying click it makes as you cycle the city wheel is a real treat.

Closing thoughts

We’re very fortunate at the Time+Tide Discovery Studio in Melbourne in that we’re constantly exposed to all sorts of watches. Not only do we get the constant sugar high of new releases coming in from brands that we stock, but we’ve also got a steady stream of watches passing through the studio for reviews and photoshoots. It’s one of the best parts of the job, but it also means that it takes something pretty special to turn everyone’s heads – we’re pretty spoiled in that sense.

So when I say that the Chopard L.U.C Time Traveller One Black generated more excitement in the studio than just about any other watch we’ve had come through, that means something. Some of our retail staff, who’d never really rated Chopard before – considering it an old-fashioned brand that’s not really their cup of tea – were incredibly impressed by the Time Traveller One Black. I heard more than a few people go “wow, that’s a Chopard?”

I don’t see that as damning with faint praise or anything, by the way. I think that’s emblematic of just how interesting this watch is. Any watch that can elicit such emotive responses and change people’s perspectives like that needs to be paid attention to. After having worn it for a week, I have to say I was pretty impressed with the Time Traveller One Black, too. It’s a connoisseur’s pick, for sure, but one that’s extremely versatile despite its high-faluting complication and origin.

My only real complaint about this watch is that it features a smoked exhibition caseback. I get that it’s thematic, but the L.U.C 01.05-L is a pretty movement that’s nicely-finished, with broad côtes de Genève – normally brands use smoked sapphire to obscure less-than-pretty movements, but Chopard has nothing to be ashamed of in that regard. Let us have a geez!

Chopard L.U.C Time Traveller One Black pricing & availability

The Chopard L.U.C Time Traveller One Black is a limited edition of 200 pieces and is available now from Chopard authorised retailers. Price: US$17,600.

Find out more about the Artem HydroFlex strap we paired it with here. Price: US$218.

Brand	Chopard
Model	L.U.C Time Traveller One
Reference Number	168574-3008
Case Dimensions	42mm (D) x 12.09mm (T)
Case Material	Ceramised titanium
Water Resistance	50 metres
Crystal(s)	Sapphire front and back, smoked exhibition caseback
Dial	Monochromatic with satin and azured finishes
Lug Width	20mm
Strap	Black rubber Cordura-effect strap, titanium pin-buckle Watch pictured on third-party Artem HydroFlex strap in grey
Movement	L.U.C 01.05-L, in-house, automatic, COSC
Power Reserve	60 hours
Functions	Hours, minutes, seconds, date hand, world time
Availability	Limited edition of 250
Price	US$17,600

Made in partnership with Artem Straps. However, the opinions expressed in this article are our own in accordance with our Editorial Policy.