Making the most of the new Maen Lunar Classic 36
Russell SheldrakeI’m going to start this review off by stating that I have small wrists. There’s no avoiding the fact in the images of this review, but don’t let this fact colour your opinion of this 36mm watch. I had one of my more generously wristed colleagues try the watch on as well, just for balance, and they had very similar thoughts on it as me. Anyway, on with the review of this rather dressy Maen Lunar Classic 36.
There’s a lot to talk about when it comes to this new Maen. The salmon dial has plenty of features to keep you intrigued, the brick bracelet has its ups and downs, and Maen generously gives you options on the movement. But I think we have to begin with that dial. It’s the first thing that hits you when you open the box, and it’s what garnered the most comments in my time wearing it.
Buckets of salmon
The radially brushed salmon dial that sits at the centre of this piece is a super fresh tone, and balances really well texturally against the other elements Maen has placed here. The brushing isn’t super deep, nor is it so light you hardly notice it, but when the sunlight catches it in a certain way, you’re instantly struck by the effect Maen was going for. And that is also going to be the exact moment you notice the grained texture of the bottom half of the moonphase. The contrast between these two surfaces doesn’t distract, but actually makes it easier on the eye when checking the rather attractive moonphase.
Now, I have gone on the record saying that the moonphase is my favourite complication. The main thing I love about it is that, to me, it is a purely aesthetic complication. At no point have I needed to know what the phase of the Moon is, but I think that it looks extremely pretty on a dial. This moonphase is no different: while the construction of the Moon and stars disc is fairly simplistic, it is well-done and excellently contrasts against the salmon dial.
Surrounding the dial is a silvered, fluted ring that gives the perfect backdrop for the tips of the slender seconds hand and pointed dauphine minute hand to fall on, and while it’s not functional as a minute track, I’m really not too worried about functionality when it comes to this watch. This is not a tool watch, nor is it a piece of accurate scientific equipment. As long as I can have a rough sense of the minutes, that is good enough for the scenarios in which I would wear this.
Overall, the detailing and finishing on this dial is incredibly fine. There are no broad strokes taken, nothing has been hamfisted on, and it feels incredibly balanced. I’m even a fan of the serif typeface for the Maen logo, as its sharp points match those found on the handset. If I could change anything, I would get rid of all the lume. Keep the hands and markers clean, and allow the polish to shine a bit more. I know that may take away some usability, but I would take aesthetics over usability for a watch like this any day of the week.
Brick by brick
Next, we have to talk about this bracelet. The brick construction is one that you don’t see very often in the market today, but it was far more frequent in the ’40s and ’50s when bracelets were made by specialist makers who also made jewellery, such as Gay Frères. This style is fiddly to make and requires far more effort and expense than a standard three-link.
I really enjoyed wearing this bracelet. It draped excellently and fitted my diminutive wrists very well. But beyond its functionality, the look of it worked perfectly with this watch, and I can see why Maen chose it. The sharp, straight, elongated lugs don’t run seamlessly into the bracelet, but they introduce it in a way that makes the two seem made for each other. Having the bracelet end links fitted to the case is a nice touch, making it look as though the brick links are cascading out from the sides of the case, and because these links are so small, they start to be flexible even before they have passed the ends of the lugs. So, there’s no need to worry about the 44mm lug-to-lug being extended because of this.
Make your choice
Inside the watch sits the the Sellita SW280-01, which is essentially the SW200 but with a moonphase complication on top. One decision that Maen has made that I am a big fan of is to cover the date window that this movement offers you. Having a date window on this dial would completely throw it off for me. The movement itself is highly reliable and offers great value for money.
Another slightly unique choice that Maen made is offering both the elaboré and top grades of the movement, at slightly different price points. The difference between the two is just a matter of how accurate they are and how many positions they have been adjusted to. The elaboré, which I had, is listed as being accurate to between +/- 7 and +/- 20 seconds a day, while the top is listed between +/- 4 and +/- 15 seconds a day. The top also comes with a display caseback, while my elaboré was solid, suggesting a difference in finish as well.
Closing thoughts
Thinking about the Lunar Classic 36’s moonphase, and its somewhat futile functionality, got me thinking about how I would use this watch. To me, this might be the perfect watch to pair with a strong Negroni – and in the week I had it, I may have made that pairing once or twice. But how can a watch go with a cocktail? To use a term made popular by a generation younger than me, it’s a vibe. This is a watch perfect for the end of a long day; when deadlines have passed, you throw on a nice shirt and your going-out shoes, find your favourite bartender and get them to make you a Negroni just the way you like it, while you let the evening pass you by. This is not something to wear while rushing around the city, or timing your mountain ascent. There is nothing stressful about this watch. It is something to be enjoyed, considered, and never rushed.
Speaking of enjoying, I thoroughly enjoyed my time with the Maen Lunar Classic 36. Its small size fit my wrist perfectly, the fine details gave me something to look at and admire when checking the time, and putting it on would instantly place me in a relaxed mood as I would look to find a bar stool to perch myself on for the evening. For the money, I think it’s a great-looking moonphase watch, and brings some classical styling and sensibilities to a world that could do with more of both.
Maen Lunar Classic 36 pricing and availability
The Maen Lunar Classic 36 is currently open for pre-orders through the Maen website. Price: starting from US$$964 (pre-orders, full retail starting from US$1,056)
| Brand | Maen |
| Model | Lunar Classic 36 |
| Reference | M7.1.3 |
| Case Dimensions | 36mm (D) x 11.35mm (T) x 44mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Box-domed sapphire front |
| Dial | Salmon circular grain |
| Bracelet | Matching brick bracelet, black or grey tropic strap |
| Movement | Sellita SW280-01, automatic |
| Power Reserve | 41 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds, moonphase |
| Availability | Open to pre-orders now |
| Price | Starting from US$$964 (pre-orders) Starting from US$1,056 (RRP) |