These are the watches you should be wearing with black tie
Borna BošnjakWhether it’s an impact of the COVID pandemic or just a general relaxation of expectations of formality, events with strict dress codes have become less and less common. While I don’t condone attending casual Fridays in your pyjama bottoms or, erm… “work from home” attire, it’s true that most people will not have the need to break out a tux and bowtie for a black tie event any time soon. However, when such an occasion does arise, it’s important to follow the dress code closely, and being watch nerds, that extends to our watches, too. Now, I hope I don’t need to say that smart watches are an absolute no-go for any sort of semi-formal or formal attire, but watches suitable for black tie require a bit more consideration than a simple dress watch.
Traditionally, the wearing of wristwatches is actually completely discouraged with black tie, being reserved for morning dress and less formal occasions. Having said that, that rule has pretty much become antiquated, and just like people won’t be turning their nose up at you should you dare to show up in a cinema wearing sweatpants, wearing an appropriate watch with a tux is just fine. But what is appropriate? The rules I adhered to were as follows: the watch needs to be inconspicuous and thin, without any complications or seconds hand, and fitted to a leather strap. Here are a few suggestions to get you started.
Seiko SWR049
Watches suitable for a black tie event don’t have to be expensive, and the cult classic Seiko “Tank” has been the affordable minimal dress watch choice for some time now. With a 28.4mm width and thickness of just 6.08mm, the steel case houses a quartz movement, so you won’t have to worry about much besides popping in a new battery every few years. With such an affordable retail price, it’s hard to find things to complain about, especially if you’re not keen on spending too much on a watch that will only be worn every once in a while. Price: US$195
Nomos Ludwig 33 Duo
Nomos designs are famously minimal, though the clean lines of Bauhaus don’t always gel too well with ultra-formal occasions, as they’re made for everyday wear. This 33mm Ludwig Duo, however, will look perfectly comfortable on a black leather strap and will have no problems hiding away beneath a French cuff thanks to its 6.6mm thickness. Powered by Nomos’ in-house manual Alpha.2 calibre, the Ludwig is already decent value, but even more so once you consider heat-blued hands and a white enamel dial. Price: US$1,680
Cartier Tank Must de Cartier
To nobody’s surprise, a Cartier has made the list, and in truth, I could’ve populated this article only with watches by the Parisian brand. The reason I picked the black lacquer-dialled Must de Cartier in particular is for its complete stripping of any unnecessary elements. The whole idea behind watches not being worn with black tie is to focus on having a good time, rather than what time it is. The Tank Must is almost primarily an accessory, with timekeeping relegated to a secondary feature thanks to its featureless dial. If I was picking a black tie watch for myself, this one would be hard to beat. Price: US$3,450
Breguet Classique 5157
The Breguet Classique 5157 is perhaps the perfect embodiment of a watch nerd’s formalwear accessory. It’s pretentious in the least obvious way possible, and chances are, nobody will notice you’re wearing one, especially should you opt for the white gold variant. But to us watch nerds, the hand-engraved dial, Breguet secret signature, and off-centre rotor of the calibre 502.3 are the precious little tidbits we live for. Despite being an automatic, it’s still just 5.4mm in height, the 38mm diameter cementing the excellent proportions. Price: US$20,570
A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin
If you’re inclined to go for something German, but decidedly higher-end than the aforementioned Nomos, A. Lange & Söhne is the obvious choice. The front is wonderfully restrained as the occasion requires, with perfectly polished lance hands and slim stick indices. There’s just a hint of stylistic exuberance with the notched lugs, but that’s really it, as Lange has saved it for the caseback. The manually wound L093.1 is crafted from German silver with a traditional three-quarter plate revealing only the hand-engraved balance cock, adorned with screwed gold chatons and striping. Price: US$23,500
Patek Philippe Golden Ellipse 5738R
Patek Philippe’s Golden Ellipse is a surprisingly overlooked watch. Not only is Patek Philippe one of the most respected and (unfortunately) hyped makers in the business, but with the resurgence of shaped (i.e. non-round) watches, you’d think more people would start paying attention. Nevertheless, the latest variant in rose gold is a perfect example of Patek Philippe’s savoir-faire of finesse, with not a single extraneous detail interrupting the design, all powered by a fine micro-rotor movement. Price: US$36,900
T+T Timeless Pick: a pocket watch
If you want to adhere to the rules as closely as possible, get yourself a pocket watch. Now, keep in mind that just because it’s a pocket watch doesn’t mean you can get something ostentatious. The Code41 Mecascape is cool, but not suitable for a black tie occasion. Though many manufacturers have moved away from making pocket watches completely, there are still some well-known names left standing. Tissot is a champion in the affordable pocket watch space, but if you’re after something really nice, Patek Philippe has got you covered. And I can’t not say it – there’s always the option of going vintage, too. Price: US$54,910 (RRP for Patek Philippe 980J)