All the watch tools you need to care for your collection

Russell Sheldrake

Being a watch collector doesn’t end once you’ve bought the watch. That’s right, you may have spent months agonising over which model to get, whether you want the 38mm or the 40mm, black dial or white dial, etc, etc. The choices can be endless, but once you finally settle on that perfect watch, your journey with that timepiece begins, and like any mechanical or precious object, it will require some care from time to time. So make sure you have the right tools for the job, otherwise you may end up doing more harm than good.

Everything we talk about here won’t require you to complete the WOSTEP 3000 watchmaking course, nor will they be as expensive as sending it off to a watchmaker for a service. These tools are aimed at keeping your watches maintained, whether that be cleaning, changing a strap, or adjusting a bracelet – and they make a fantastic gift for the watch-afflicted member of the family. All tasks anyone with a fairly steady hand and a bit of patience is capable of. Don’t worry, I’m not going to ask you to do something to your watch that I wouldn’t do myself.

Spring bar tool

This is very much the base, must-have tool for nearly all watch collectors who like to change out their straps or adjust bracelets and clasps at home. There are two ways to go about it. For ultimate portability, something like a pocket-sized, replaceable-tip tool works best, but the two-ended Bergeon 6767F is pretty much the golden standard when it comes to price vs performance. This tool comes with two heads, one forked to allow you to remove spring bars, and the other pointed to take out push pins or remove spring bars from drilled lugs. This is the best tool to give your watches endless different looks by allowing you to swap straps whenever and where ever you like, and you shouldn’t be spending more than US$50 to get you started.

Screwdriver set

You’ll see a set of these small screwdrivers on every watchmaker’s bench, and for good reason. They can be used in so many different ways when it comes to working on your watches. But the main reason you or I would need these small, jeweller’s screwdrivers is for removing solid, screwed in bars, or screwed in links. A word of caution – these can cause small scratches to your watch, so use them with care, and they are far too easy to snap if you are used to using the big Philips head in your tool box. They also have a great secondary use of tightening up the hinges on your sunglasses. If you are going to buy a set, I recommend buying one made by Bergeon.

Crown winder

This one might sound a little niche, or even redundant, but if you have a larger collection that includes a number of manually wound watches, it can be quite a painful chore to keep them all ticking. This handy device uses a soft rubber cup to attach to any crown, and then with its handle allows you to wind your watches with ease. And if you think that winding a a few watches every day isn’t too much of a task, just ask Hans Wilsdorf. The founder of Rolex would wind multiple watches that were being tested every day, and famously had calluses on his finger and thumb from it. So avoid that, by using this. Once again, Bergeon is your best bet, this time with something like the 31409 model number, usually sold for around US$60.

Bracelet block

This is a relatively simply piece of kit, given that it’s a cube of plastic with slits cut into it. But this will make the adjustment of your bracelet a hundred times easier. Being able to wedge your bracelet into this black will allow you to work on it carefree, knowing that it’s not going to fall over, and any pins that fall out are going to drop right underneath and not roll off your desk, never to be seen again.

Cleaning kit

Getting to wear your watches is one of the true joys of ownership, but if you wear them regularly, especially in hot or rugged conditions, your watches can pick up untold amounts of dirt and grime along the way. And while you can go all out and get an ultrasonic bath for your bracelet (but please not the watch head if you’re not removing the movement), this cleaning kit can deal with the worst of the dirt that gets caught up in your watch. With a cleaning solution, soft bristled brush and polishing cloth, it’s a great solution for water resistant watches that need a quick spit-shine. It also just happens to be another product you can buy directly from us. You can find the AIS Collective Watch Cleaning Kits in the Time+Tide Shop for US$62.

Good storage

This might not sound like a tool, but it will go a long way to ensuring the longevity of your collection. Having your watches stored in an optimal environment gives them the best chance of being ready to go when you want them. If you want to keep your automatic perpetual calendars on the right date, a winder will always be the right way to go. If you just need to store your watches and you don’t mind them stopping, keeping them in a soft, dry environment is key. Don’t be the person who just throws their watch off at the end of the day onto the bedside table. You spent too long searching for that watch to treat it so casually now. For a range of winder and watch box solutions, make sure to check out Wolf and BezelHold in the Time+Tide Shop.