New releases from Rolex, Grand Seiko, Bulgari and more

Buffy Acacia

As the biggest week of the watchmaking calendar comes to an end, it’s safe to say it’s been a rollercoaster. You’re probably overloaded with all of the new releases from some of the biggest watch brands in the world, and it’s going to take a long time to process all of the new trends and themes which will emerge as the year progresses. However, if you’ve been hoping for a handy recap of the coolest things we’ve looked at this week, look no further.

Buci & seconde/seconde/ Garde-temps

• The latest brand to collaborate with professional jokester seconde/seconde/ is the French brand Buci.
• The new Garde-temps watch is an ode to fountain pens, complete with a bleeding ink motif and paper-like dial.
• Text on the caseback reads ”Poetry: bloodsport where a daring soul fiercely fights a blank paper.”

Learn more about the Buci & seconde/seconde/ Garde-temps here.

Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC

• Well-known for pushing boundaries, Bulgari has done it again with a new world record-breaking watch, the Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC, a fully COSC-certified watch with a thickness of just 1.70mm.
• With each model limited to 20 pieces, the Ultra COSC is extremely rare, produced in both titanium or platinum, with tungsten carbide main plates making up the structure of the watch.
• The watches are built around the calibre BVL 180, a COSC-certified manually wound movement, which has a 50-hour power reserve and comes in at no more than 1.5mm thick.

Learn more about the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Ultra COSC here.

Chopard L.U.C. XPS Forest Green

• The new Chopard L.U.C. XPS Forest Green brings its signature Art Deco charm to a green platform in multiple ways.
• The Lucent Steel case is 80% recycled, and boasts a whiter lustre than most other steels.
• The 7.2mm thickness makes for a smooth wearing experience, and the value proposition should also be considered with this new release. 

Learn more about the Chopard L.U.C. XPS Forest Green here.

Grand Seiko SLGH021

• The SLGH021 debuts a new dial texture inspired by the Genbi valley, supposed to emulate the look of rocks which frame the Iwai River.
• Though we see many dials from GS, this is a new texture from the brand, and a first Evolution 9 case in Ever-Brilliant Steel.
• It’s powered by the hi-beat 9SA5 and limited to 1,000 pieces.

Learn more about the Grand Seiko SLGH021 here.

H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton

• The second skeleton model from the independent watchmaker, it uses the same codes but in a new look.
• Highly complex with a double hairspring tourbillon at 6 o’clock.
• A great, yet pricey addition to the skeletonised integrated sports watch segment, at $86,900.

Learn more about the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton here.

Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm

• Hublot’s most accessible Big Bang may now be the Moderate Bang in a 38mm size for smaller wrists.
• It encapsulates all the braggadocio energy of the Big Bang without wearing like a tank.
• It’s available in titanium, ceramic, and King Gold cases.

Learn more about the Hublot Big Bang Integrated Time Only 38mm here.

IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar

• IWC goes for the highlight of the entire fair with the secular perpetual calendar-equipped Portugieser Eternal.
• With a new secular calendar module adapted to the regular Portugieser QP, there’s also a new moonphase accurate to 45 million years.
• The dial is subtle, but also one of the more impressive bits, made up of transparent and opaque glass elements.

Learn more about the IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar here.

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Golden Siena

• Parmigiani Fleurier push the Tonda PF further into dressy territory by removing the date display.
• The barleycorn dial has been given a new Golden Siena colour.
• The 950 platinum bezel adds a touch of stealth wealth to the stainless steel case.

Learn more about the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Golden Siena here.

Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon

• The Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon is the thinnest tourbillon watch in the world.
• Introducing complications to the battles of thinness makes things much more exciting.
• The whole watch with a peripherally-mounted flying tourbillon is 2mm tall including the sapphire crystal, while retaining some water resistance.

Learn more about the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon here.

Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum

• Rolex’s dressiest piece gets the most luscious makeover possible.
• The guilloché of the dial is also a rare sight in a Rolex, matching really well with the coined bezel.
• It joins the line-up of yellow and Everose gold variants, with either a black or brown leather strap fitted with a case-matching platinum buckle.

Learn more about the Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum here.

TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph

• TAG Heuer’s iconic motorsports chronograph has welcomed a new reference, thoroughly redesigned with modern industrial attitudes.
• It’s derived from the piece TAG Heuer made for 2023’s now-delayed Only Watch auction.
• The calibre TH81-00 is TAG Heuer’s first mechanical split-seconds chronograph movement, made by Vaucher.

Learn more about the TAG Heuer Monaco Split-Seconds Chronograph here.

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT

• The long-awaited, thinner take on the Black Bay GMT is finally here in all its Bakelite-like glory.
• The case slims down to an impressive 12.8mm in height, retaining the Black Bay 58’s 39mm diameter.
• The watch is available on either a rubber strap or riveted three-link bracelet.

Learn more about the Black Bay 58 GMT here.

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Green Collection

• A green colour has finally been introduced to the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection, evoking the well-known lustre of the Overseas blue.
• The included watches are the Chronograph, Dual Time, and 41mm and 35mm time-only models.
• They’re all cased in 18k pink gold with automatic movements.

Learn more about the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Green Collection here.

Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Collection

• The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph collection finally brings the El Primero into a casual, sporty setting.
• The automatic El Primero 3600 beats at 5Hz and is capable of measuring tenths of a second, racing the central seconds hand around the dial every 10 seconds.
• Initially available in blue, black, and silver, they’re priced at CHF 11,900 including exchangeable steel bracelets and rubber straps.

Learn more about the Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph here.