The Duke Clarity Tourbillon is a luxurious Luxembourgish salute to Genta watchmaking
Jamie WeissLuxembourg and Switzerland have a lot in common. Both are tiny, very rich European tax havens that sit at the crossroads of great European powers. They’re both slightly inscrutable, quirky little countries, known for being homes of wealth and luxury. Yet unlike Switzerland, which is the heart of the world’s watch industry, surprisingly few watch brands call Luxembourg home (even though Luxembourg was the birthplace of Jean-Claude Biver, one of the industry’s most influential figures). That’s why Duke, and their first-ever model, the Clarity Tourbillon, is such an intriguing prospect. Boasting a familiar octagonal form housing an innovative in-house movement, it’s a bold first attempt from a brand (and country) little known to the world.
The case
Designed by Alessio Muller, one half of the father-and-son team that founded Duke, the Clarity Tourbillon’s 44mm octagonal case demonstrably owes much to the legendary designs of Gérald Genta – yet it’s by no means derivative. Its case features a novel sandwiched construction, with a bezel, backplate and lugs crafted from grade 5 titanium plus a middle section crafted from titanium-infused carbon fibre.
The dial
The dial of the Duke Clarity Tourbillon is the main event, though. Crafted from tinted shot-blasted sapphire with a large 100-degree opening at 6 o’clock to highlight the tourbillon, it’s completely featureless, save for the Duke logo at 12 o’clock. The tourbillon is undeniably the star of the show.
The opening has been hand-softened at its edges to create a seamless look, while a mirror-polished 18k white gold flange frames the stark dial, with skeletonised hands adding to the ultra-modern look.
The movement
Well, I say the dial is the main event – really, it’s the Clarity Tourbillon’s movement. Designed in collaboration with legendary master watchmaker Vianney Halter, the Duke Clarity Tourbillon is powered by the in-house Calibre 9600, an automatic-winding flying tourbillon movement (who would’ve guessed?) with double sapphire bridges, which makes the tourbillon appear truly weightless.
That effect is heightened by the movement’s mysterious rotor, which is crafted from sapphire crystal – again, designed to let the tourbillon be admired completely unobstructed. Mounted on ceramic ball bearings, Duke claims it’s nearly impossible to perceive the rotor’s winding.
Duke has also gone the extra mile when it comes to the movement’s finishing: hand beveling, mirror-polishing and reliefs made of alternating grained, sun-brushed and shot-blasted surfaces. It’s fundamentally modern in its appearance and deceptively minimalist.
The strap
Adding to the Duke Clarity Tourbillon’s modern character is its strap, which is an integrated FKM rubber strap with titanium hardware. We suspect Duke plan to introduce integrated bracelets on their next Clarity Tourbillon models.
Duke Clarity Tourbillon pricing and availability
The Duke Clarity Tourbillon has been released in a ‘First Edition’ limited run of 8 models, which we believe may all be spoken for – but bespoke nature of the brand means that if you have the dosh, they’ll likely make you your very own. Price: €98,000
| Brand | Duke |
| Model | Clarity Tourbillon |
| Case Diameter | 44mm |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium and carbon fibre |
| Water Resistance | 50 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire |
| Dial | Tinted shot-blasted sapphire, 18k white gold flange, hands and appliques |
| Lug Width | Integrated |
| Strap | FKM rubber strap, titanium pin buckle |
| Movement | Duke Calibre 9600, automatic, double sapphire bridges |
| Power Reserve | 72 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, flying tourbillon, mysterious rotor |
| Availability | Limited edition of 8 |
| Price | €98,000 |