The Yema Superman Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is flattened and faded to perfection
Buffy AcaciaSkin divers are named for the fact they’re worn against the skin, rather than on top of a wetsuit, and not necessarily for their overall thicknesses. When the first limited edition of the Yema Superman Skin Diver dropped in 2021, that was important to understand, because the 13mm thickness was actually relatively chunky. But now, three years later, Yema’s in-house micro-rotor movement has allowed the French brand to revisit the watch with a much more slender approach, as well as a smoky new colour scheme.
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The case
True to skin diver form, the new Yema Superman Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 sits flat against the wrist. Even without getting your callipers out, you can tell that it’s thin, and that sells its vintage credibility just that little bit more. The silhouette of the case is good at evoking the 1960s originals, with the swooping sides meeting the lugs, which have drilled holes for easy strap or bracelet changes. The one major change is the loss of the patented bezel lock and crown guards, which tightens up the overall look and gives it a bit of 1950s simplicity.
The first limited edition reissue of the Yema Superman Skin Diver was available in both 41mm and 39mm sizes, but now Yema has scrapped the 41mm in favour of the 39mm. It’s by far the more popular size for this kind of watch at the moment, and it does a better job of evoking the vintage watches that inspired it. The lug-to-lug length is 48mm, which is relatively long for the diameter but still compact enough – however, the thickness is the main feature on this watch. It sits at just 10mm including the double-domed sapphire crystal, which is 2mm tall by itself. That makes for an impressively slender watch, whether you’re sliding it under cuffs or avoiding snagging it on rocks while diving. 300 metres of water resistance is fantastic, granting peace of mind for pretty much every possible wet situation.
The dial
Although the case has been changed in an immediately noticeable way, the dial is scarily accurate to the 1960s version. The main points of difference are the Yema logo – as most of the Superman divers were actually sold under the LeJour brand name then – and fewer lines of printing above 6 o’clock. The modern Super-LumiNova has been given a rather intense yellow tint, imbuing the watch with a more advanced sense of age. The trapezoidal indices are about as retro as you can get, and they’re matched with the funky mismatched handset that makes it impossible to confuse the minutes and the hours.
The ghost bezel trend has been gaining momentum quickly this year, which is an emulation of sun bleaching on bezels that were originally black. For the Skin Diver Slim CMM.20, Yema has gone full ghost and turned the dial grey too. It’s a fairly dark grey, somewhere between graphite and slate, which still contrasts well against the white printing or the beige lume. The bezel, where most of the white can be seen, is paired with a sapphire insert that’s scratch-resistant, and also looks like vintage bakelite bezels from the ‘50s.
The movement
Yema has been making movements for quite a while, which was something that set them apart many years ago. It’s become a little bit more common for mid-range brands, but it’s still an impressive feat for independent companies operating in this price bracket. The Caliber Manufacture Morteau 20 (CMM.20) isn’t just impressive because it’s in-house, but also because it uses a micro-rotor for its automatic winding. They don’t quite count as complications, but they’re certainly rare in watchmaking and can quickly reduce the height of an automatic movement. They’re also fun to look at, as you can watch it spin without sacrificing the view of the rest of the movement. The movement boasts a smooth 4Hz beat rate, a generous 70-hour power reserve, and a regulated rate between -3/+7 seconds per day.
The bracelet
Yema’s Scales bracelet has been a really popular style for the brand for many reasons. Firstly, the fish-scale effect has a natural affiliation with dive watches, so it matches thematically. Secondly, it’s nicely finished and comfortable, with easily flowing links that have no problem draping. Lastly, it’s just different enough to the repetitive styles we’re tired of, without being overly wacky. Well, for the Superman Skin Diver Slim CMM.20, the Scales Slim has been introduced too. It’s just a thinner version of the Scales bracelet, tapering up from as little as 4mm at the clasp end. Speaking of the clasp, it’s a milled double-security clasp with four holes of micro-adjustment and a diving extension.
The verdict
Yema, vintage divers, and in-house micro-rotor movements. That’s a recipe for a happy watch collector if ever I’ve seen one. As far as limited editions go, this model is sure to sell out. I do wonder whether or not the Superman Skin Diver Slim will ever end up as a mainstay of the Superman collection, because it’s a solid competitor to other independent, entry-level luxury options such as the Oris Divers Sixty-Five. The grey and cream combo of this reference is definitely on-trend and attractive, however, I’m sure there are many people who’d love to see versions in black, blue, and green.
Yema Superman Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 pricing and availability
The Yema Superman Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 is a limited edition of 500 pieces. Price: US$2,249
| Brand | Yema |
| Model | Superman Skin Diver Slim CMM.20 |
| Case Dimensions | 39mm (D) x 10mm (T) x 48mm (LTL) |
| Case Material | Stainless steel |
| Water Resistance | 300 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Sapphire crystal front and back |
| Dial | Dark grey |
| Lug Width | 20mm |
| Strap | Scales Slim steel bracelet, folding clasp |
| Movement | CMM.20, in-house, automatic micro-rotor |
| Power Reserve | 70 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, seconds |
| Availability | Limited to 500 pieces |
| Price (excl. tax) | US$2,249 |