The Louis Moinet Speed of Sound sports a reworked and engraved vintage Valjoux movement
Borna BošnjakHow did you celebrate your 20th birthday? If you haven’t yet, you’d do well to take inspiration from Louis Moinet, as the brand is marking two decades since its revival by Jean-Marie Schaller with a limited edition of just 20 pieces. The Louis Moinet Speed of Sound is a chronograph, as you might expect given Moinet’s accolades, but combined with the usual avant-garde materials the revived brand is known for with a reworked and intricately engraved vintage movement – the Valjoux 88. Let’s break down the origins of this 1950s movement, as well as the modern watch it powers.
The movement
Though starting with the movement isn’t our usual order of things, the Valjoux 88 isn’t a usual movement, either. Derived from the successful (and simpler) Valjoux 72, the 88 features a calendar and moonphase complication on top of the column wheel chronograph. To fit Louis Moinet’s needs, however, the calendar, pointer date, and 12-hour totaliser were removed from the calibre. The moonphase, however, remains, and as you’ll see shortly, becomes the centrepiece of the dial. As for the usual specs, this modified variant of the Valjoux 88 beats at a leisurely 2.5Hz, has only 17 jewels, and a 40-hour power reserve.
But when it comes to using a 70-year-old movement, it’s not really as much about the on-paper specs as it is about their beauty and historical significance. The Valjoux 88 wasn’t as widespread as some of its simpler contemporaries from Valjoux, though still making appearances in watches by well-respected brands such as Heuer, Minerva, and Gallet. As this is a celebratory watch, Louis Moinet dressed up the movement appropriately, with elaborate, hand-engraved flourishes to the bridges and cocks, and straight-graining of the steel components. Having said that, I would like to see some sharp, internal angles too given the price point.
The dial
Flip the watch around, and you’ll be hard-pressed figuring out that the Speed of Sound is powered by a vintage movement. Louis Moinet continues its use of lunar and “regular” meteorite, here occupying the moonphase display and other sub-dials, respectively. Though it may not be noticeable from afar, the rest of the dial actually sports a fine, hand-engraved guilloché pattern that really helps level up the looks of the Speed of Sound up close.
The dial is also the place that gives away the inspiration behind the Speed of Sound name, as Louis Moinet has chosen to equip it with a telemeter scale, printed around the rehaut. Though less common than tachymeter and pulsometer tracks, telemeters were widely used in the 1940s, by soldiers looking to calculate how far something is by observing it, and listening for the aural cue. Fitting, given that the movement comes from a similar period.
The highlight of the dial, and literally speaking, is the moonphase display. Painted with luminous paint and with an embedded piece of Dhofar 457 meteorite, the domed surface glows brightly in the dark or under UV light. Louis Moinet often leans heavily into its unique ways of displaying this complication, and the style is different and minimal in the Speed of Sound too. Whenever the piece of lunar meteorite aligns with one of the pointers, it’s a full moon.
The case
The approach to case design for the Speed of Sound very much follows in the footsteps of the dial, with modern materials and numerous oversized elements. It’s made of grade 5 titanium, with an impressive piece of domed sapphire crystal on top. Louis Moinet does a commendable job of finishing the titanium surfaces, as they’re often not the most cooperative when it comes to polishing. The large pump pushers feature a cross-hatched finish, joined by the equally large crown. Though the diameter isn’t that large in itself at 40.7mm, the protruding pushers and crown add to it considerably.
The same can be said for the Speed of Sound’s thickness, standing at 18.87mm. While some of the visual bulk will be reduced thanks to that aforementioned domed crystal, this is still a significant measurement. In a world where case sizes are shrinking, I’m afraid this will limit the appeal of the Speed of Sound given current trends of downsizing. On the other hand, those that yearned for a vintage Valjoux-powered watch that’s actually over 35mm in diameter may have their saving grace.
The strap
Louis Moinet focuses its attention on other parts of the watch, and as a result, the strap just does what it needs to do without being overt. It’s a matte black alligator leather number, finished in a folding clasp with the Louis Moinet logo. The 22mm lug width will, however, let you experiment with straps should you wish to opt for something sportier.
The verdict
Watch nerds are easily swayed by pretty movements, and the modified Valjoux 88 of the Speed of Sound certainly is pretty. Louis Moinet absolutely has the ability to put modern, high-tech chronograph movements into its watches – the Impulsion being just one example – but the Speed of Sound is a lot more about celebrating the past than the future. The dial engraving is well-done, and the watch doesn’t lean so much into its use of meteorite to the point of making it a gimmick, and the case finishing stands out given the base material. What will undoubtedly be less appealing to vintage watch fans is the size and steep pricing at CHF 50,000, though it has to be said that both are very much in line with Louis Moinet’s current offering. With that in mind, and given the limited, 20-piece run, I suspect there are enough potential customers out there that resonate both with the avant-garde style of the modern Louis Moinet brand, while also respecting its old-school beating heart.
Louis Moinet Speed of Sound pricing and availability
The Louis Moinet Speed of Sound is a limited edition of 20 pieces. Price: CHF 50,000 (~US$59,100)
| Brand | Louis Moinet |
| Model | Speed of Sound |
| Reference | LM-130.20.50 |
| Case Dimensions | 40.7mm (D) x 18.87mm (T) |
| Case Material | Grade 5 titanium |
| Water Resistance | 30 metres |
| Crystal(s) | Domed sapphire front, sapphire back |
| Dial | Guilloché with meteorite and Dhofar 457 sub-dials |
| Lug Width | 22mm |
| Bracelet | Black alligator, Louis Moinet-branded folding clasp |
| Movement | Valjoux 88, modified, manual winding |
| Power Reserve | 40 hours |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds, moonphase, chronograph |
| Availability | 20 pieces |
| Price | CHF 50,000 |