6 of the best modern LED watches that are a total blast from the past
Jamie WeissIn an industry driven by tradition, the idea of bringing watches into the future was a scary thought. When the so-called quartz crisis of the 1970s rocked Switzerland, it shook up the watch industry as we knew it – with longstanding manufacturers scrambling to figure out how to navigate a market where battery-driven watches could make mechanical timekeeping obsolete. Ironically, thanks to creative and strategic thinkers like Jean-Claude Biver, this obsolescence would eventually become charming once again – along with the fact that, if taken care of properly, a mechanical timepiece will last for generations.
However, in the ’70s, the innovative technology and design introduced by quartz timepieces such as LED displays were highly attractive and fashionable. It is crazy to think now that prestigious retailers such as Tiffany & Co. would co-brand and sell watches like the Pulsar P2 – with celebrities such as Jack Nicholson, Elton John, Sammy Davis Jr and Keith Richards all sporting variations of the watch (and in solid gold, no less).
Of course, one of the most prominent wearers of LED watches was Roger Moore, who as James Bond famously donned a Pulsar P2 in Live and Let Die (1973). Such a futuristic design paired perfectly with Britain’s favourite secret agent, whose adventures filled with hi-tech gadgetry sparked the imaginations of filmgoers worldwide. As time went on, LED watches became cheaper and cheaper – as did all quartz watches – with LED watches largely made obsolete by cheaper and more energy-efficient LCD displays.
The intriguing aspect of LED watches today is that while they maintain a space-age appeal, they also stir up nostalgia. While Switzerland’s mechanical watch manufacturers were traumatised by the quartz crisis, today many are now revitalising their LED designs to celebrate their innovation and pioneering spirit – both qualities that we could argue are sorely needed in the industry today.
It’s worth pointing out that this list covers LED watches, not LCD watches like Casio and Timex are famous for making, for example. With that out of the way, here’s our guide to the best LED watches that really connect today’s buyers with the forward-thinking spirit of the ’70s.
Armitron Griffy
It’s funny to think that at one point, LED watches were the height of luxury. These days, you can pick up an LED watch for not a lot of money at all. Case in point, the Armitron Griffy, which isn’t just the most affordable LED watch on the market but also one of the most affordable new watches full stop. D.C., one of our contributors, picked one up a few years ago for a paltry US$35 – and they can be found for cheaper still – and as he puts it, “it has no right being this good”. Featuring a pleasantly brushed 34mm stainless steel case and an oversized LED display that’s exceedingly easy to read, this Armitron is the cheapest way to get in on the retro LED fun. Price: US$60 (or less)
Yema LED
Octagonal case profiles are rampant in the current marketplace, often leading watch enthusiasts to draw comparisons between them. But the Yema LED watch, while having an octagonal-shaped case, is very distinct in appearance. A faithful re-issue of a ’70s LED watch that the French watch manufacturer once released, its brushed and polished case is very compact and slender, 37.5mm in diameter and 10.5mm thick, but it is also 100 metres water-resistant as well. Its non-integrating steel bracelet also evokes sci-fi charm and is highly adjustable with a sliding clasp suitable for catering to all wrist sizes. Those who are fans of the HBO Max series Peacemaker may actually recognise this watch, as actor Chukwudi Iwuji, who plays the role of Clemson Murn, leader of the black-ops team Project Butterfly, wears one throughout the show. Price: US$249
Bulova Computron
Another brand leaning into their quartz crisis era heritage, Bulova infused the cues of many of their ’70s creations to realise the Computron. Resplendent in gold-plated stainless steel, the case clocks in at 31mm and has a depth rating of 30 metres – so it is not the most robust watch on this list. But it does provide buyers with a faceted design evocative of automotive aesthetics, with the flair of an engine-turned textured case and bracelet and a flash of yellow-gold tone. Like all the watches on this wrist, it doesn’t tell the time constantly: the display remains off by default to conserve energy, with the time displayed once you push the button on the right-hand side of the case. Price: US$395
G. Gerlach Kosmonauta
Like virtually all the watches on this list, the G. Gerlach Kosmonauta is a modern revival of a period LED watch – specifically, it’s a revival (or homage) of the Unitra Warel, the first Polish digital watch that famously went to space on the wrist of Mirosław Hermaszewski, the first and to this date only Pole to ever go to space. The Kosmonauta isn’t a one-for-one revival of the Unitra Warel, however, as it features a slightly smaller (and now sapphire) crystal and a more rounded case. It’s also much more energy-efficient than the Warel: where the original would drain its battery within weeks of normal use, the Kosmonauta features a more modern 2-year battery life. Price: US$438
Hamilton American Classic PSR
Probably the most iconic design on this list, the Hamilton American Classic PSR is the modern evolution of the Pulsar watch, the world’s first commercially available LED watch that caught the attention of Hollywood’s elite and the world’s greatest fictional spy. This stainless-steel beauty, which comes in multiple colour schemes including black DLC and PVD gold, is 30.4mm in diameter, 13.3mm thick, and 40.8mm lug-to-lug – so it is extremely wearable and faithful to a more compact vintage aesthetic. It is also a robust daily wearer, with a depth rating of 100 metres, so if you feel like doing your own Daniel Craig 007 walk out of the ocean you can do so with certainty while the watch is on your wrist (even though it was Roger Moore who wore this watch in the films). Price: US$868, available from the Time+Tide Shop.
Girard-Perregaux x Yves Saint Laurent Casquette 2.0 Titanium
In the world of watch collecting, rarity is very attractive. Collecting, by nature, is driven by collectability, so when a watch is limited in nature then collector intrigue is certainly heightened. The original Casquette watch, while not a limited edition, was not produced in super-high quantities – with 8,200 pieces made from 1976 to 1978. In 2022, however, Girard-Perregaux revived the watch with the Casquette 2.0, a modern limited edition that, while faithful, brings the watch into the 21st century – as well as up to date with 21st century Swiss watch pricing, as it’s now one of the most expensive quartz watches you can buy.
The first two drops of the Casquette in 2022 and 2023, the latter as a collaboration with fashion house Yves Saint Laurent, sold out almost immediately. 2024 now sees the Casquette return for a third drop, again with YSL. 2024’s model features a grade 5 titanium case, in contrast to the previous two which featured ceramic cases. The hooded design is very wrist-friendly, with a dimension of 33.6mm x 14.64mm x 42.4mm. Its depth rating of 50 metres means, conservatively speaking, you can safely surface swim with the watch on your wrist. Price: US$7,500
T+T Timeless Pick: Cyberpunk 2077 x Błonie T-2077
While this watch was only released just over two years ago, it’s now all sold out – and its retro-futurism certainly makes it “timeless”. The Cyberpunk 2077 x Błonie T-2077 – would you believe it, the second Polish watch on this list – was produced to commemorate the release of Cyberpunk 2077, a blockbuster video game starring Keanu Reeves produced by Polish firm CD Projekt Red. The watch itself features a pebble-like design, with a yellow LED display to match the signature yellow colour of the game. Its pure titanium case is entirely matte-finished, emulating the tech seen around the streets and population of Night City, the setting of Cyberpunk 2077. Something that really dates this watch to 2022 is that each one came with its own NFT. How paradoxical is that? Price (at retail): US$397