10 of the best sports watches
Zach BlassWhat is a sports watch really? On the one hand, “sports watch” is an overarching umbrella term that encompasses sub-categories such as racing watches, dive watches, pilot’s watches, etc. On the other hand, it simply comes down to a watch that has a sporty edge, a watch built both aesthetically and technically speaking with an emphasis on practical daily wear. Companies like Rolex have long produced sports watches, and Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is credited with birthing the luxury steel sports segment. But for now, here are ten of the best sports watches you can buy (that will not require a decade of patience).
Hamilton Khaki Field Expedition Auto
I can attest first-hand how easy-wearing and high-performing Hamilton’s Khaki Field Expedition Auto is. Frankly, any Hamilton Khaki Field model is worth consideration for a best sports watch list. But, after my “battle test” experience in Arizona, the Expedition is my personal pick this time around. With 41mm and 37mm size options, each equipped with an 80-hour automatic movement, 100 metres water-resistant, and available in various colours and configurations, it is easy to find the best model for you within this range. And, as I once stated in a previous article, all of this comes for US$945 on the NATO, and just US$100 more on a steel bracelet – making it a ninth of the price of a Submariner and nearly a sixth of the price of a Seamaster. So, it is fair to say it presents great value. Price: starting at US$945 from the Time+Tide Shop
Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer
A watch with a ton of heritage, functionality, and colour, the Mido Ocean Star Decompression Worldtimer, like the Expedition Auto above, offers a huge disconnect between price and offering in the best way. Its 200 metres water-resistant case clocks in at the very comfortable dimensions of 40.5mm in diameter, 13.4mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. There are black and blue variants to explore, each boasting the signature rainbow-hued decompression scale. The model, also driven by an 80-hour ETA-based automatic, boasts GMT and date complications – with the rotating bezel offering a worldtimer scale. Again, a fair amount of bang for a very fair amount of buck. Price: US$1,310 from the Time+Tide Shop
Tudor Black Bay 54
Does the Tudor Black Bay 54 really need any introduction at this point? Those familiar with the brand will already know any model from the Pelagos or Black Bay line suffices as a best sports watch candidate. But, with me in the driver’s seat, the Black Bay 54 is only a controversial choice if you deem 37mm too small for your wrist – if so, see Pelagos or Black Bay. Aside from my smaller wrist bias, the Tudor Black Bay 54 is the model I put forward because it is the closest thing you can get in the modern era to the original Submariner watches (hence the 54 that signals its 1954-born source of inspiration). While you would have to be a moron to beat up a vintage model from that era with daily wear today, the Black Bay 54 offers the dimension and aesthetic of the OGs while having the modern benefit of a 200-metre water-resistant steel case, 70-hour chronometer calibre with a silicon balance spring, and T-fit micro-adjustment should you go for the bracelet configuration. Price: starting at US$3,700
Grand Seiko SBGE257 Spring Drive GMT
In my personal opinion, the Grand Seiko SBGE257 does not get enough credit. Or, at least not as much credit I believe it is due. Grand Seiko’s Sport range for a long time consisted of watches that were largely, well, too large in the eyes of some. So when Grand Seiko presented a range of more compact Spring Drive GMT watches in 2020, it was a welcome development. With a 40.5mm case, perhaps a little on the beefy side at 14.7mm in height, but a more manageable 48.7mm lug-to-lug, Grand Seiko offers a much more wrist-manageable sports watch that has the distinct advantage of Spring Drive’s unparalleled accuracy compared to other spring-driven watches. With its 72-hour true GMT Spring Drive movement, ceramic 24-hour bezel, and 200 metres water-resistant steel case, it’s not unfair to claim that this watch is the highest performer of any on this list. The only notable subjective Achilles heels: a 4:30-positioned date window and a bracelet without on-the-fly micro-adjustment. Price: US$6,200
TAG Heuer Carrera Skipper
While the above have largely offered dive or dive-adjacent aesthetics, this, as I stated from the outset, is only one segment within the broader sports watch category. The chronograph complication is more tied to sport than any other, the stoppage of elapsed time is critical for racing events of all kinds. One of the most coveted vintage TAG Heuer models is its legendary Skipper, and when the brand decided to reinterpret it in its recently debuted Glassbox framework, it did not take a crystal ball to know Heuer had a winner on its hands. With a column-wheel chronograph movement, a comfortably sized, 100 metres water-resistant 39mm case, and its handsome and nostalgic Skipper colour scheme, it may just be the best Glassbox Carrera yet. Price: US$6,750 (steel), US$25,100 (rose gold)
Omega Speedmaster (with white lacquered dial)
I cannot remember the exact expression, but it goes something like “every watch collector needs to own an Omega Speedmaster”. I don’t know if that is necessarily the case, but it is certainly hard to go wrong with a Speedmaster. Its Moonwatch heritage is so rich that its collaborative offspring, the MoonSwatch, is arguably the most massive model launch of all time. While your more standard black is the OG, the hottest model in the core Speedmaster Professional range has to be the new white-lacquered dial variant. It is simply (and subjectively) smokin’, adding an air of sophistication to the watch that landed on the Moon. And when it leaked on the wrist of Daniel Craig, everyone was eagerly anticipating its entry into Omega’s catalogue. Price: starting at US$7,800
Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Copper
A sports watch should be, at least figuratively, bulletproof. The Rouleaux bracelet of the Chronomat incorporates bullet-inspired style into its look, but the real eye-catcher at play here is the copper panda dial with its collector-favourite salmon hue. While I would not wholeheartedly endorse swimming with a 50-metre water-resistant Omega Speedmaster Professional, the Breitling Chronomat B01 42 Copper has a 200 metres water-resistant steel case that’s 42mm in diameter, 15.1mm thick, and 50.5mm lug-to-lug. Inside it packs a manufacture column-wheel chronograph movement with 70 hours of power reserve. Price: US$8,950 (on bracelet)
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Geographic
With the watchmaker’s watchmaker largely prioritising Reverso, it seemed like other Jaeger-LeCoultre collections were being left behind. JLC recently debuted not only new colour configurations for its existing Polaris models, but also an entirely new Polaris Geographic. While the Geographic does not have a rotatable inner bezel timing scale the range is typically known for, the tradeoff is the first-ever usage of JLC’s signature reinterpretation of a world time complication in the Polaris line. By rotating the 10 o’clock positioned crown, as you scroll through the world timer’s ring of cities, the central hours hand will jump accordingly – making it super simple to adjust your watch wherever you land next. Despite its heightened complication, the Polaris Geographic is actually thinner than the Polaris Date, while being equal in diameter at 42mm. It is 100 metres less water-resistant than the Polaris Date, then again, the Geographic’s 100-metre rating is ample enough. Price: US$16,100
Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42 in titanium
When this watch launched, my personal gut reaction was “FINALLY!” While there was nothing necessarily wrong with the standard 45mm diameter models of the past, the smaller-wristed like myself were always left a touch disappointed when each 40mm model would debut as a limited edition. Now, more compact versions are available as regular-production models – both the titanium or red gold cases measuring in at a more friendly 42.3mm in diameter, 14.3mm thick, and 47mm lug-to-lug. In particular, the titanium variant is available on NATO, Tropic rubber, or sailcloth straps, with the additional option of a titanium bracelet. In its toned-down size, the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm still uses an in-house, five-day automatic movement. The Fifty Fathoms is a fixture of dive watch history, and with this newer compact take, it has never been stronger. Price: starting at US$16,600
Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport
I was a little confounded by the Tonda PF Sport at first, not really clear on the differences between it and the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor initially. Of course, its movement now has a central rotor, rather than a micro-rotor, but ultimately what Parmigiani Fleurier offers with the Tonda PF Sport is a more casual take on the model that is a tad beefier. This also includes a super comfortable integrated and textured rubber strap that is not available for the Tonda PF Micro-Rotor. Its 60-hour in-house PF770 automatic movement is finely decorated, with a solid gold winding rotor inspired by the steering wheel of a Ferrari 250 GTO. If you want the class of “private luxury” with a sportier sensibility, the Tonda PF Sport could be a great pick-up that will only have those in the know turning their heads. Price: starting at US$21,300